Day 5 rest day in Dingle and day 6 Dingle to Kilrush.

Our day of rest in Dingle was wonderful. The sun shone brightly all day and we got burnt to a crisp. No excuses just stupid. Not enough sun cream and too long outdoors. The day ended in a pub with a nice cold Guinness. Of course it did.

Well rested of body and mind are we after our days rest in Dingle. This is what a body needing rest looks like. He is going to kill me when he sees this. Bear in mind this is 9:15 in the morning.

We had a decent breakfast. Then, we bid our hosts, Pat and his daughter Anne-Marie, farewell. We wrote something apt in their visitors book and departed. Duinin House is a 10/10 place. Well presented, clean and warm and friendly hosts, I can’t fault the place at all.


The day dawned heavily overcast but as we left the cloud looked like it was breaking in places. It was dry. We retraced our steps to Dingle and struck west to join the Slea Head tourist route. The road snakes its way around the coast climbing and dipping as the contours allow. This is bleak country. Stone walls enclose sheep in small fields. Beehive structures dating back hundreds of years dot the coastline. They used to house animals, crops and even families.


The road continues back to Dingle where we refuelled before heading up into the Connor Pass. The view from the top is usually spectacular. Today we were in cloud with zero visibility, a strong wind and a chilly and damp air clung around us. We took a photo. Descending down the other side of the pass, the road is down to one lane clinging to the rock face. We drop below cloud level and the view goes on for miles and miles.

A tad breezy up in the lofty heights of the Connor Pass. Apologies for the sound.


The road then follows a rather dull route into the large city of Tralee. It seems to be a bit of a sprawl. Run down in parts. New shopping zones in others. True of many towns. We pass through. The road leaves the major route and heads north west towards the beach and the seaside town of Ballyheigue. It is a bustling little town. It is busy with holiday makers. Continuing on through Drommartin, Ballyduff and Ballybunion we arrive in Tarbert. Here is the southern end of the River Shannon Ferry crossing. The ferry is already boarding when we arrive and we are beckoned onboard the MV Shannon Dolphin by a crew member and park our bikes for the 15 minute crossing over to Killimer on the north shore.


The run to our stay for the night is a short 4 miles for we are staying in a floating pod in Kilrush marina. Rather unusually it sits on a raft tethered to a pontoon. It rocks about on the water. Just like being back at sea again. We took a walk up into town to find somewhere for dinner. Nothing! A supermarket shop for a roast chicken and a bottle of wine sorted the evening menu.

Todays ride was around 200 kms, around 125 miles.

We are now in County Clare having left County Kerry. Tomorrow we continue our journey north into County Galway.

Day 3. Castletownbere to Cloon

Yup. I have no idea where Cloon is either but here we are. Lets start at the days dawning.

The sun eased its way above the horizon to be veiled by clouds. The clouds parted. Briefly. The sun continued its valiant effort to bring warmth to this part of Ireland. The jury is out on its success.

Its gallant attempts did not go unnoticed by my good self. “OOO Andy, Blue skies”. Zero response from my colleague in duvet land in his bed. Nothing. Oh well. It was only 5:40 in the morning. The weather looked good to start with.

We got up, showered and ate a hearty breakfast. We started packing the bikes up and the only black cloud on the entire west coast of Ireland moved over and dropped its contents on us. Clearly we have been praying to the wrong God.

Slightly moist now we set off on the days ride.

The road continues in a SW direction. Sometimes rough and ready and sometimes even worse than that but always fabulous on a motorcycle. 


We stopped briefly at the carpark where the cable car to Dursey Island leaves should you choose to be transported in what looks like a caravan suspended above the sea on wires. Not for us. We chose to take a selfie in the rain instead.


Retracing our steps and in what can only be described as a chance encounter in a lay-by we came across a cairn attesting to a feat of amazing seamanship. Blink and you would have missed it. A photo was taken. 


On On!! We followed the tourist route of the Beara Ring. For tourist route read farm track. In many places it was a single track road with eye height bracken obscuring everything. Grass grew down the middle of the road. The bracken obscured Camper vans driven by loons who thought that 60 km/hr was a safe speed coming the other way. It beggars belief why people drive faster than the distance they can stop in. Anyway. We continued on to a small cafe in Eyeries where a coffee and a slab of carrot and walnut cake in warmth and shelter alleviated the rising damp that had by now found its way past ankle height, above the knees, above even the trouser area into the midriff where the bottom of my shirt got wet. We needed to dry out. We went from wet to damp to slightly moist in around 45 minutes.

We continued on. Stopping now and then to take in the vistas and have a break the kilometres passed.

We turned off to take the Healy Pass road. If there is one road that simply must be ridden on a motorcycle then this is it. Twists, hairpin bends, a climb into a mountain pass and a descent to boot had us both grinning.

We stopped at the top to take some photos. Whilst I was snapping away Andy took a tumble behind me. He slipped on a rock. I turned and he was lying on the ground. I ran over and did what all good friends would do in such a dire situation. I roared with laughter. Called him various unpleasant names. He took a photo of me laughing from his prone position. He has a little bruise to show for it. I helped him up. I had to. Who else was going to pour my gin and tonic later in the day?

We moved on.

Back to Glengariff and turn north into the Caha Pass. A brief stop for a coffee break at Molly Gallivans Emporium.

We dropped down into Kenmare township for lunch. A superb bowl of Seafood chowder. Rich, tasty and a boon to the weary and now getting dry biker.

The final leg of our journey took us onto the southern part of the Ring of Kerry. It is busy. Tourist coaches rattle along at a fair pace. Traffic is busy. But then again it is promoted as a premier tourist route. For me, the Beara Ring is much more rustic, more beautiful and less trodden. 


We arrived at our stop for the night. The Old School House in Cloon. Quirky, well lived in, an owner who keeps bees, a little dog that greets you. Time to rid ourselves of the last vestiges of the days showers, relax, recharge self and various gizmos batteries and write home. 140 miles of smiling, cussing, oh wowing and sheer unadulterated motorcycling pleasure.