wild atlantic way

Top Tips for Exploring the Wild Atlantic Way on a Motorcycle

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

I said that once we had returned to home I would write a few words about the trip. What we liked. What we did not and the do’s and don’ts.

A celebratory cinnamon bun having completed the trip.

There are plenty of books and maps to help in planning the Wild Atlantic Way. It’s best to visit any Irish Tourist office once you are in Ireland. Grab a handful of the free ones there. The entire route from Kinsale in the far south to Muff near the Northern Ireland border is very well signposted. Most of the tourist offices have maps divided into various regions. Examples include County Cork and the Ring of Kerry, and so forth.

I checked out various motorcycle forums, YouTube videos and general internet searches. There is so much information out there. Probably too much if I am honest. I included “must-dos” in the various forums. I added these roads where they fit into the basic route I had already planned.

I used the Calimoto app for planning the trip. It was easy to use and also the highlights are readily obvious. I downloaded the maps to use offline. I strongly recommend you do that. I did use Waze and google and Apple Maps for some background. Google Earth was also good to see what some of the very minor roads were like. Most places had cellphone signal. Only a bar or two was enough if near the towns and villages. But sometimes there was no signal at all. The downloaded maps became very useful then.

We used Stena Line ferries to and from Fishguard. They provided padded lashing straps for the bikes. There were no challenges using the ferry. The crew lashed the bikes. Its worth paying for access to the premium lounge. Plenty of food and drinks to stock up with.

We used bed and breakfasts where possible. When none were available we used hotels. I prefer the B+Bs as I like to meet the local landladies for a chat. Booking.com and AirBnB were handy. I did not find any decent Irish books or websites to find good B+Bs. There were so many B+Bs we passed that were not listed anywhere. I did ask one landlady why there is no decent directory of accommodation. She said the normal is just to rock up and knock on the door. This is to see if there were any vacancies. That approach isn’t helpful in some places. There were very few options, and there was no guarantee of a bed for the night. Do watch for this. Prices ranged from 80 Euros for the night to over 300 in some of the hotels. The standard was very good. There were a few quirky places and I loved them. Many of the pubs had accommodation but they tended to be noisy and no off street parking for the bikes.

Petrol (gas) stations were never a problem to find. Even the remotest places had a pump or two. Prices were cheaper in the bigger towns which is to be expected. We tended to fill up in the bigger places and top up if needed when remote.

So here are my do’s and don’ts.

Do’s

Whatever time you allow to do a particular leg then double it. Google maps often said 3 hours and it took 6. This is because unless you just want to get around as quick as possible then you simply have to stop. Then you get caught having a chat to a local. And oh how they can talk and I loved it. Often, sitting and having a coffee invited men to come and say hello. They would ask what we were doing and give tips on their best roads in the area. An hour was gone in no time! Then there are the photo stops and info boards at points of interest to read. Our day usually started around 9 am on the bikes. We would stop for lunch or coffee. We arrived at the B+B around 4 or 5 pm. Earlier if the weather was poor. That gave us time to have a hot shower and start to get wet stuff dried if possible. We tended to have a good lunch. In the evening, we would have a snack like an instant porridge pot. The B+Bs did not supply dinner but all had a kettle to boil water. Many were remote with nowhere in the area to go for food. Make sure to pack a box of porridge sachets or freeze dried soup. Keep them in your luggage for the evening if you need food. You can read the blog for an idea of mileage and the stops we made.

Do pack your bike for all weathers. It is called the Emerald Isle for a very good reason. You can get all seasons in one day. We were sat in the pouring rain one day miserable as hell. A local said don’t worry, summer will be along in 20 minutes. Sure enough it was. The wind on some of the west coast headlands can be significant. It can occur on peninsula’s at any time of the year.

Do avoid the obvious tourist traps if you travel in high season. We arrived at the Cliffs of Moher and they wanted 15 euros just to park. It was full of buses. We moved on. Slieve League in Donegal is better and less busy.

Do be familiar with any satnavs or apps that you use. We came across bikers touring on hire bikes. They had a preprogrammed route in a satnav. The bikers were struggling to use it because they were not familiar with it. It is all well and good when things are going right. But, if you leave the route or change it, they struggle.

Do I really need to tell you to make sure you and your bike are in tip top condition before you set out? Do I? This can be a rough ride in places and is tough going on any machine. The suspension will get tested. The tyres will get a beating. You will be challenged mentally and physically. Whilst you don’t need to be Mr Universe do make sure you are in good health before setting out. I make no apology for mentioning again the remote nature of some parts of the route.

We packed 10 days worth of undies and socks and around 5 T shirts. I included a pair of quick dry fishing shorts. I also added two decent polo shirts and a hoodie. Additionally, I packed a pair of chinos should we need semi decent clothing to eat out. Besides my boots, I packed a pair of slip on deck shoes. They are for wandering around the B+Bs and the towns in the evenings. Otherwise the day was spent in bike gear. This is not a fashion show. That gave us time to get into the trip before we needed to find a laundry. You can always get t shirts in pubs you visit and in the local supermarkets if you really need to. We got one from a great pub in Dingle. Well it’s a must is it not?

Do plan in a days rest now and then. We took two days off in a 22 day ride. One in Dingle and another in Clifden. Dingle is a fabulous place even if it is very touristy. Clifden has a great laundry service in the town. It also offers good eat and drink venues. It was absolutely worth it to get laundry done, rest, and check the bikes over. It was also great just to take a breather. This is quite stressful riding.

Irish roads can be interesting. You can be traveling over a brand new piece of road. The next minute, it suddenly reverts to teeth shaking and gravelly mush. Some of them are very narrow with stone walls close by or high hedges. Some can be rather rough in places. Tractors from the 1950s and 60s were plentiful bumbling along just around the next blind corner. You have been warned. The locals in cars and trucks don’t slow down much. Watch your lines through the curves. We encountered many cars crossing the center line on bends. Also beware the tourist coaches who really don’t care about anyone else. Again we had many encounters that left us scratching our heads.

Whenever we saw other motorbikes we always went and said hello. In the far west, we saw very few. We never missed a chance to catch up with a fellow biker.

Do be choosy about points of interest you really want to see when planning your route. Visiting every single location listed in the books is impossible. You would need at least 6 to 8 weeks to spare. I stuck to places of cultural and historical interest primarily. So many fabulous beaches are along the way that I gave up after a while. There were too many viewpoints overlooking a beach. Locals call them strands. After the first week, we only stopped at the really spectacular ones.

Do be sensible with the booze. Nobody likes a drunk, especially a lairy biker. The locals welcomed us in all the pubs we went into. I have become very fond of a cold Guinness. Not once did we come across anybody who had too much in the lovely pubs out west. Don’t be the first and spoil it for the rest who will come after you. The trip for me was really all about the people we met. The scenery was quite good too!

Do take a basic tool kit with you. Duct tape and cable ties are bikers friends. A puncture repair kit. Once you leave Cork and head west, you find fewer motorcycle shops. In large parts of the country, they reduce to zero. We were on BMW’s. There are two dealers on the entire Ireland so come prepared. Get good travel insurance that covers bikers. If possible, join the AA or RAC or similar for help if needed.

Do ride with a companion if you can. Some parts of the route are very remote. If anything untoward happens, having a mate along will really help. There were always cars and other travelers around but sometimes we did not see another soul for hours. Anyways, this is an adventure that really is best shared with a mate.

Another tip is to take two bread bags with you. You know the plastic bags that bread comes in. They are great if your boots get soaked and you cant dry them before the next day. Put dry socks on, put your feet in a bag and put your boots on. Feet keep dry even in a soggy boot. Likewise for your hands. If it rains, cover each glove with a bag. This keeps your gloves dry if you don’t have waterproof mitts. I never tour without two bread bags in my jacket pockets.

Do have the what3words app on your phone. Godsend for giving someone your location in any event if you need assistance. Particularly in the remote parts of west Ireland. Its free so why wouldn’t you?

If you have time, do plan to come down the middle of Ireland. Whilst not as rugged as the west coast it is as beautiful. It is often bypassed. It should not be. It is wonderful.

Don’ts.

Don’t plan the trip to death. We often took a wrong turn. Sometimes, we decided to venture off route up a road because it looked like a good road to ride. The calimoto app like most will always recalculate and get you back to your destination eventually.

Don’t rush. If you want to zip around, this blog is not for you. It’s meant for those who wish to enjoy the journey and not just the destination.

Don’t pass up the opportunity to have a chat with the locals. I found a simple good morning how are you today ended up passing an hour. In the entire time we were in Ireland we encountered Mr Angry only once.

Don’t spend money in the large supermarket chains unless you really must. Support the local businesses. There are loads of little local Supervalu supermarkets dotted about. They will thank you for it. We used local cafes and bakeries. They were really good. Besides, it is another opportunity to chat to the locals.

Don’t spend money on fancy visor cleaners. Go into your local specsavers or similar and pick up some spectacle cleaner. Much cheaper (sometimes free if you are a customer) and just as good. You will need it. I had anything from bird poo to flies to cow poo flung up at me. This is rural Ireland you are traveling through.

Don’t worry about the security of your bike. The B+Bs we used were mostly so remote they were totally safe. In the towns we stayed in the owners let us use a backyard or shed to put them in. One hotel had a secure car park. I took my big chain with me and used it once. Just take the usual precautions. Most people that were near the bikes just wanted to look at them. A couple of young kids had their photos taken on them. I never had any big concerns about security.

Don’t be tempted to have the full Irish breakfast every day. No really. Don’t. They are huge and totally awesome. Still, at 10,000 calories a pop, the rest of us mere mortals will be dead after a week. Unless you are one of those lucky people that can eat like that and live, avoid overindulgence. We had one a week. On a Sunday morning. Totally fabulous but makes the mornings ride a little uncomfortable with half of a small countries harvest in your stomach. Be warned. Public toilets were very scarce. Hence the use of cafes. They all had a toilet. Being of a certain age the availability of toilets is a consideration. You won’t read these top tips in any other blog!

In conclusion:

I am sure there is more I can write. Would I do it all again. You bet. I did the route in a motorhome with my wife and our dog and again on the bike. When I got back to Rosslare I wanted to turn around and go back again.

Ireland is awesome. It is everything you would expect it to be and so very much more. But for me it was all about the people. Like at home in New Zealand the people are genuinely interested in you. They are warm and welcoming. There is a wonderful community feel which has been lost elsewhere. My goodness can they talk! Quite often it was me that started it with a simple hello can you help me and away you go. From garages, to supermarkets to cafes to simply sat by the bike checking my phone people came to chat. Old people, children, grannies, land ladies, farmers on tractors, you name it they came. I will admit that in the beginning, I was very wary. I was thinking, oh what do they want? What can they pinch? It was just general suspicion. That’s sad because that’s the norm in other parts of the world. My fears were very quickly alleviated after my first few encounters. I would move to West Ireland tomorrow!

People say they will do it some day. Some day is not a day of the week. Go do it. Life is no dress rehearsal and this needs to be on your bucket list.

I hope this was helpful. Get in touch if there is anything more I can help with if you are thinking of doing the Wild Atlantic Way and Ireland in general for yourself. Safe riding.

Day 15, Rathmullan to Redcastle. Experiencing the Raw Beauty: Malin Head and Beyond.

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

The Waters Edge hotel was a boon to the weary traveler. Except no breakfast was available until 10 am. Not good for those of us who want to get on the road.

So, we thought we were being clever by leaving early to hunt down a tasty breakfast somewhere down the road. Little did we know, it was a decision we’d come to rue. But I’ll save that story for later.

First stop of the day was the town of Ramelton. It is a pretty little place.

It is the birthplace of David Gallaher, the first All Blacks captain. The sculpture in his honour, “Forged in New Zealand,” stands as a testament to his legacy. I made sure to take Andy to visit the small park and capture a photo of my two kiwis.

We continued on. You would think a town the size of Letterkenny would have an open cafe. Nope. On to Buncrana on the R238. Which was devoid of buns.  Leaving Buncrana we turn off onto the Westbrook road. This is a bit twisty but the best was to come. It disappears into the moors and turns and climbs into the Gap of Mamore.

This is a fairly short but idyllic motorcycle road. Staggering views, hair pin bends, narrow and twisty. It has it all. We stopped for photos. How can you not when confronted with such beauty.

Photos never do it justice though. But the memories they provoke in the years ahead will. I had to take a little rest. Andy had his camera ready. Of course he did.

We continued the descent on the north side.

The road continues into the small village of Clonmany. At last! A Lavazza coffee sign. We stopped. We had breakfast. Well brunch really. A lonely local took pity on us and sat down at our table. Uninvited. We got a potted history of his life. You can guess it was not the stuff of legend. We gave the “oh really’s and wows” at the required time. He left us for his large scotch and lager at 11am. Just a lonely sole needing an ear. We ate. We moved on. 

Rejoining the R238 through Ballyliffin we turned north on the road to Malin Head. Passing the aerials of the Malin Head Coastguard radio station, the road becomes slow going. The raw force of the wind tries its best to push us off the road. It twists and ducks over and around rocky outcrops before climbing to Malin Head.

A mere waft at Malin Head.

The wind screams. The sea is white and foaming. The very next minute, blue skies. We take shelter behind the lookout post as the next wave of rain and wind pass through. You cant go into the shelter. It smells like a Napoleonic toilet.

The rain is lashing and all we can do is grin. We have succeeded in getting to the most northerly point of Eire. We recall Old Head of Kinsale at the southern end where the fog shrouded the view. A seat to take a rest looks out over the boiling sea. Beside it is this.

It was raw up there. We got our photos and moved on.

Descending down from the high point at Magilligans lookout, we drop down into Inishowen head.

We view the lighthouse and Stroove beach before heading through Greencastle. Our journey ends at the Redcastle Hotel.

As I type, my valet Andy has procured two pints of Guinness. We are celebrating the fact that we have all but completed the Wild Atlantic Way. Tomorrow we cross the border into Northern Ireland.

Day 14, Bunbeg to Rathmullan. Exploring Raw and Windy Landscapes by Motorcycle.

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

I can’t tell you how much a decent breakfast sets you up for a day on a motorcycle. The weather the past few days has been a concern. Considering we are into August you would be forgiven for thinking we were into Autumn already.

A large area of low pressure is circulating NW of Ireland bringing blustery winds and rain. It is almost stationary.

We set off from Bunbeg and headed north on the R257. 

The road was exposed to the raw wind blowing straight off the sea.

We stopped in a lay-by at Brinlack to take a photo looking back over the bay. White-painted cottages dot a barren landscape. There are no trees anywhere. It’s tough going on the bike. Just before the small town of Gortahork, to add some interest, we take the N56 south. It’s a bit of a dull road, but it takes us to the shores of Lough Nacung. Here, we turn east onto the R251.

Now this road is a beauty. We did nip into a lay-by to get the wet weather gear on. The road was headed to the right of the volcanic peak. It was very gloomy.

Ahead, there were some very ominous-looking clouds over the peaks. The road winds its way up to around 285 meters above sea level before dropping down into the next valley. Here, we turned north onto the R256 on a narrow and twisty road over the moors.

The heavens opened heavily and we had to slow right down. as visibility was limited and the road became a little slippery on the bends. At Falcarragh we stopped under the shelter of a petrol station. We got a coffee and hoped that the rain would pass through. 30 mins later it had abated enough for us to continue without getting too wet.

At Dunfanaghy we turn north and climb up the narrow and winding track to Horn Head. The wind increases dramatically as we climb and pull up in the at the top of the climb.

Breezy on Horn Head.

Horn head is an old look out post dating back to Napoleonic times. Also, a more modern but run down post exists. It got cold very quickly in the biting wind. The roar of the sea rises up from below the cliffs. The wind makes talking hard.

We took our photos and retreated back down the track and set off for Creeslough down the N56. Here we turn onto the R245 and make a stop at Glen Drumlackagh to rest. It gave us a chance to snap a photo of Doe Castle. Once the home of the ruling McSweeney family it is now a national  monument.

The road continues its journey north. It winds its way around Loughs and inlets. Never straight. Always winding to Fanad Head lighthouse. It was rare to get above third gear on these roads.

Whilst having a coffee a family came to admire the bikes and we get talking about where we have been. A general chit chat about our past route. One of them is chewing on some Dillisk. I have no idea what it is. They offer us some to try. It is air dried seaweed. It is delicious. It is supposed to be a delicacy in this region.

I love these interactions we have with people we meet. 

As we ready to leave, the heavens open once again. This time we don’t have the wet weather gear on. The result is inevitable. We get wet. Oh well. Not much to do but carry on. 

The R268 now follows the coast and passes Ballymastocker beach or strand, as they are called here. It’s a stunning strip of sand. The road then climbs through a series of hairpin turns up the hill behind the beach to a viewpoint above. We stop to take some photos.

The road now drops to sea level. It follows the coast all the way to our final stop at the Waters Edge hotel in Rathmullan. As we park the bikes a large rain cloud rolls in. Just to keep us on our toes it rains on us as we make a dash for the hotel door with our bags.

The day has been a fairly technical ride. Coping with buffeting winds and rain again has made us both tired. It is unfortunate that the weather has been so poor for the time of year. But that is Ireland.

Day 13, Donegal to Bunbeg. Exploring the Irish Wild Atlantic Way on Motorcycle: A Journey Through Stunning Landscapes

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

It was with some trepidation that I peered out of the cottage door. It was still raining. The wind and rain had pummeled the little cottage during the night, and I had hoped it would have passed. The updated forecast suggested another 2 hours until the worst would be over.

Not the best start to the day

We decided to get on the road and donned the wet weather gear. The clear weather would come. Just when was in doubt. After refuelling in Donegal, we set off for Killybegs. Passing through the fishing town, we started to climb into the hills on winding roads. We paused for a coffee.

Then, we continued in sunshine and showers to Slieve League. We paid our €5 entry fee. Finally, we motored up to the top carpark. Oh my!

The view of the cliffs was staggering. The rain had cleared but wispy cloud clung to the sides and tops of the lofty peaks. We took our photos. Standing on the precipice looking at a scene like this laid out before you makes you feel so small. It is time to stand and stare and soak it all in.

Retracing our steps we descended back into Teelin. We took the R 263 road and struck west to Malin More. Then we followed the twisty road along the coast towards Cashel.

Suddenly we came upon a lot of cars parked by the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Sheepdog trials were playing out in a field beside us. We paused briefly to watch but had to move on as we were blocking the road. It was a brief but wonderful spectacle.

The road climbed again over the moors and hills. It reached an altitude of 230 metres above sea level. Even at these lofty heights, hedges of Fuchsias line the road. The ballerina-like flowers appear to be made of scarlet wax. They grow prolifically up here.

Then our path ahead dropped down on spectacular motorcycle roads into the town of Ardara.

Here we paused for lunch in the sun.

Sat on a bench in the street eating our sandwich a few locals paused to say hello to us. We must have looked rather unusual I suppose.

Leaving on the Portnoo road, the R 261, the road levels out a bit. This makes for easy riding in the sun.

We turn onto the N56. Now this is an altogether different road. Smooth and widish, it gave us a chance to open the throttle and blow the cobwebs away.

Sweeping and winding its way north through Lettermacaward and the wonderfully named Cloghbolie we turn off onto the R259.

This road narrows down and starts to twist and turn its way north through Burtonport and Kincasslagh. Never far from the coast the sea sparkles in the afternoon sun.

The smell of brine fills the air. To our right, hundreds of lakes, both large and small, dot the landscape. They are filled with dark brown tea-coloured water. The lakes are fed by thousands of streams, gurgling in gullies from the high tops recently soaked with rain. They look like mirrors on the heather. We pass Leo’s Tavern, where Enya and Clannad started their musical journey. We pass the distillery at Crolly. We turn off, onto the R257, to journey’s end. The Clady at Bunbeg is an old merchant’s store converted to a home that sits on the harbour’s edge. It is our lodgings for the night.

The sun shines on the fishing boats of all shapes and sizes in the harbour. 

I went for a short walk to view the old harbour. I have a brief conversation with Igor and his 9 year old daughter Tanya. Refugees from Kherson in Ukraine they have lived in Bunbeg for 14 months. Igor comes to admire our bikes. He apologises for his poor English. Tanya speaks excellent English and tells me they had to run away from the war. She tells me the people here are very nice. I am lost for words for once and simply wish them well.

Another day comes to a close. One of outstanding scenery. Superb motorcycling roads. Better weather than I had expected. If you are reading this, you must come and do this for yourself. No, you must.

Day 12, Ballina to Donegal. Exploring Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way: A Dash to Donegal

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

And it came to pass. All night long the heavens did their best to turn this area of Ireland into a lake.

A decent breakfast of eggs benedict warmed the cockles of our hearts. We donned the wet weather gear. We had a rain window of around 3 hours. During this time, we needed to reach our next accommodation in Donegal.

I had to cut the itinerary down to a quick dash of 140 Kms. I hoped to arrive before the frontal system.

There was one thing I wanted to show Andy. I know he is a bit of a war historian. I had seen an old concrete hulk anchored in the river here on an earlier visit.

SS Crete Boom

You can read more on this strange craft here.

It was time now for the dash to Donegal. No time to stop for photos. With dark clouds all around us and spots of rain already on our visors it was fingers crossed now. There was a strong and buffeting wind from the south. We had to ease off on the speed for safety. No time to stop at the Yeats grave of take in the mountains to our right.

We arrived at the cottage of Patsy. He is the port of Killybegs pilot. I met him two years ago when I brought my ship into the harbour. He we were back then.

His cottage is charming. I mentioned back then my will to do the Wild Atlantic Way. He offered his place to us and what a boon it is.

Not 30 minutes after we arrived the rain really started to thump down. It has not stopped since. We made it just in time.

We shall have to wait and see what tomorrow brings. Hopefully this system will have moved through and normal service can resume tomorrow.

Day 11, Carrowbeg to Ballina. Breathtaking Achill Island: Coastal Adventures and Panoramic Landscapes

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

After a decent breakfast of scrambled eggs on toast rustled up by Andy, we bid farewell to Denise and Nicholas at the Whitethorn House B+B. We then set off to refuel in Newport. 

Taking the N59, the road follows the coast to the small town of Mulranny where it splits. We turn left to Dooghbeg. The views along this coast are staggering. Looking out across the inlets to distant hills where rain is sweeping in, we snap a photo. Then, we continue on to the Spanish Armada viewpoint.

Who knew 5 ships of the Armada lie wrecked somewhere below.

We continue to Achill and take the small bridge across to Achill Island. At various points on the island are the locations for the film The Banshees of Inisherin. It is clear these draw quite a few people to find them.

The road snakes around the island in loops. Sheep roam the hillsides. Great care must be taken to keep yourself and the animals safe as they wander over the road.

The panoramic views are breathtaking. North Atlantic rollers crash ashore and the stiff wind blowing up the cliffs buffets us as we progress.

The seaside town of Keel is very busy. Not what we came for. We turn around and via different roads return to Mulranny and turn north on the N59. 

Dark clouds are gathering ahead heralding some serious rain showers. They are menacing looking.

At Bangor Erris we chicken out and put the waterproofs back on. Just in time for the heavens opened and we got a soaking. Just as we were about to leave I noticed something stuck in Andys rear tyre. He had managed to pick up a large steel screw. Luck would have it that it had only pierecd a small rubber web and not the tyre itself. We removed it and moved on.

We ducked under the shelter of a garage forecourt. We filled up the bikes and grabbed a coffee to let the rain pass through. Turning off the N59 onto roads less travelled by tourists we wind our way via the L1205 through undulating moors. The wind is relentless. Coming from our left hand side it gives you a sore neck trying to keep your head straight. Passing through Bunnahowen we turn to put the wind behind us and take the R314 east. We get instant relief as the wind is now on our backs.

The next 50 kms are spent on this road running down into Ballina. We have checked into the Ballina Manor Hotel for the night. The weather forecast for tomorrow is horrid. We need to tweak the itinerary to keep dry ish.

Day 10, Clifden to Carrowbeg. Rainy Motorcycle Trip from Clifden to Westport – 179 Kilometers in Tough Conditions

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

I have no idea where Carrowbeg is either. Somewhere north of Westport.

The day dawned. I wish it hadn’t. All night the wind rattled the bedroom window. The alarm went off and simply insisted we got up and start the day. The rain was already tinkling on the glass. 

We went to breakfast in the conservatory of the Sea Mist guesthouse. It is a 200 year old coaching house. We watched the rain and wind lash the garden.

You don’t come to Ireland on a motorcycle without wet weather gear. We donned ours. Fully encapsulated in PVC outer clothing we ventured forth into the morning.


First order of the day was to tip toe around the Sky Road. It climbed steadily away from Clifden to the lofty heights to the west. As we climbed, the wind increased in intensity. It was slow going as the wind buffeted us. We stopped at the lookout point. We looked at the rain lashing the hills. The wind did its level best to rip our outer garments to shreds. It failed.


After the obligatory photo, we continued around the Sky Road circuit back to Clifden. Then, we struck east to Maams Cross and north to Clonbur. By now the concentration to keep a motorcycle on the road when Mother Nature is doing her best to get you off it was taking its toll. Coffee and cake was needed. Joyces Country Bakery in Clonbur duly obliged with an Almond Croissant for myself and a Belgian Brownie for Andy plus coffee. The staff thought we were “Eejits” for riding in this weather. 

This is fun. No really it is.


We can’t fault their argument. Replenished we continued in the driving rain. The R300 winding road rises and falls along the shores of Lough Mask. It crosses the County line from Galway to Mayo. Then, it passes through the hamlet of Finney. The brooks are roaring. Swollen with rain water draining from the lofty heights all around. The colour of black tea, the water boils as it descends through the gullies. We pause for a moment at the top of the climb to take in the view. Such as it is. Curtains of rain sweep across the moors. Andy’s gloves are now saturated. Whilst I have waterproof overgloves, a good trick is to use bread bags. His worked a treat even if they do look odd.

Descending into Leenaun, we take the N59 east. It runs along the southern shore of what many people consider to be Ireland’s only true fjord. 

At the village of Clog, we turn off onto the R335. We cross the Aasleagh Falls bridge. Then, we strike north through Delphi and along the shores of Doo Lough. A coffee truck provides another welcome break and a chance to shelter. As we sit there a change in the weather comes through. The wind increases appreciably. With it the rain passes and blue skies emerge. We continue on now in sunshine to Killadoon, Carrownisky and Louisburgh. All are busy with holiday traffic. We press on. 

The struggles of keeping safe in the weather takes its toll on both of us. We decide to stop for lunch in Westport. Having rested and resupplied at a local supermarket we take the rustic backroads to our nights rest in an Air BnB owned by Nicholas and Denise in the small hamlet of Carrowbank.

What an awesome house. Our room is super comfy. We have the run of the house. It comes complete with a snooker and pool room, no less.

Todays ride was only 179Kms, 112 miles. But it was tough going in the horrible weather. Total concentration needed to avoid the gravel washed onto the road by the rain, greasy tarmac and spray from other vehicles. We will sleep well tonight.

Day 8, Glencorrib to Clifden and Day 9 rest day in Clifden.

Woodend WandererLeave a comment
Corrib View Lodge


The Corrib View lodge was an amazing place to stay. It was well run. The host was very friendly and easy to talk to. The place was spotlessly clean. A pot of tea and home baking on arrival added a lovely touch. The other guests were all staying to fly fish in Lough Corrib for trout. July 31st dawned bright and clear and a little chilly to start with. Our host sent us on our way with two home made plum muffins.

Two film stars. And John wayne and Maureen O’Hara.

By the time we reached the little village of Cong, only a few kilometers away, the temperature was on the rise. We stopped at the John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara bronze for the obligatory tourist photo and a little rest. This part of Connemara was immortalised in the film “The Quiet Man.” This ensures a steady trail of tourists to keep the local emporia in business forevermore.

Taking the R345 road, we follow the northern fringes of Lough Corrib. It is dotted with hundreds of little islands. The water sparkles in the morning sun. The road twists this way and that, a motorcycling heaven. The smell of wild flowers wafts up as we pass. The heady perfume is sweet. The road veers left onto the R336. It crosses the Bealan Na Brock river by a honey coloured stone bridge. We climb steadily into the moorland-covered hills. Sheep rest on the road. We pick our way around them. Maunwee Lough lies at the crest. Its waters are dark and still and show the surrounding hills in them like a mirror. This section of road has been lifted straight out of the McKenzie country in New Zealand. It brought back many great memories for me of riding that country.

Maunwee Lough
Taking it all in.


The road drops down into Maam Cross. Here lies an abandoned rail yard with some old wagons and coaches being slowly reclaimed by nature. But plans are afoot to restore this section of the Connemara railway. The signal box has already been attended to. In days past a broad gauge railway ran from Galway to Clifden. Only the old station, engine shed, and water tower in Clifden still exist. The remains in Maam Cross are also present.

Turning left onto the N59 the road follows the west side of Lough Corrib. It continues to the pretty little town of Oughterard. Two riders stop for coffee and a bun in the sun. On leaving this lovely little place we turn off the main road onto a road named Annaghkeelaun. It is mainly single track and runs through beautiful wooded countryside dotted with rather large beautiful houses. Rather an exclusive area I think. Deciduous trees line the road. The smell of freshly mown lawns is carried on the breeze. One big advantage of riding a motorcycle is you get to experience all the smells. Some beautiful. Some rustic.

We cross the N59 Galway road onto the L1320. This road cuts cross country in peace and quiet. Then, it joins the R336 on the coast. This part of the country is vast open bogs. Lakes litter the landscape in all directions. Peat is being cut and loaded onto trailers. The smell of burning peat drifts on the wind as we pass remote homesteads. It is earthy and not at all unpleasant. The road is quite busy. We turn off onto the single track R374. This track runs NW away into remote Connemara. Andy slows down and puts his hazard lights on. A car between he and I slows down. I pull around the car to take a peek at what has caused the slow down. Cows loose on the road! A bit of cowboying on motorcycles is called for.

Rounding up cattle the modern way

Crossing a rebuilt bridge we stop at what appears to be an old harbour. The area is overgrown with grass and weeds. It is clear that once upon a time this was a fishing boat harbour. It was accessible at high tide. Drawn as ever to anything nautical I have to stop to investigate.

The not so ancient mariner.

An abandoned rowing boat provides a photo op.

Hemmingway perhaps?

We move on and rejoin the R336 and the tourist traffic. We run onto the R340 and 342. We continue along the sinuous route. We head towards the turn off for the Alcock and Brown and Marconi transmitter site. This was a must see for me on this tour. I was not disappointed. You can read more here.

Walking among the ruins of Marconis transatlantic transmitter station is quite moving. When I first went to sea, morse code was still in daily use.

The large cairn marking Alcock and Brown’s landing site stands dominantly upon Derrigimlagh Bog. It is unfortunate that some people deem it necessary to deface it with inane scribbles.

The landing strip.

From the air, it looked like a grass field. On landing, the Vickers Vimy plane ended up on its nose after the wheels sank into the boggy ground.

We are now holed up in the Sea Mist guesthouse in Clifden. We will have another rest day tomorrow to get our laundry done. The coming days do not look promising from a weather perspective. I fear we will need full wet weather gear. We shall see.

Alcock and Brown stand proudly in Clifden.

Having dropped our laundry off at the local emporium pour lavage, we took a look around the local museum housed in the old railway engine shed. We grabbed a coffee to wash down a very nice strawberry roulade. I had it on very good authority from the curator of the musem that the coffee and strawberry roulade at Steam cafe was not to be missed. I must concur.

Oh go on then!

I hope to report tomorrow that my hunt for a decent Irish stew has been successful. It is on the menu in a local restaurant. Dinner shall be the test.

Day 7, Kilrush to Glencorrib. Loop Head Lighthouse and The Burren Geological Park Adventure.

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

There was no sinking feeling today! A night in a floating pod needs to be experienced. Each time one of us got on or off it rocked a little. At first quite disconcerting but after a while you got used to it. I really enjoyed our nights stay here. A little different, a little quirky. Clean and comfortable and a view a little out of the ordinary.

The wind died away completely overnight. We woke to a blue sky day and not a breath of wind. The water was like a mirror.

We packed up and moved on.

First stop was a run down to the Loop Head Lighthouse, a signature point on the Wild Atlantic Way. The road is narrow and winding. It passes through small hamlets that appeared deserted. Wide open vistas of fields stretch to the horizon on all sides. Then suddenly on top a rise ahead the lighthouse appears. Its light flashed 4 times every 20 seconds and marks the northern entrance to the River Shannon. Ripe tides and currents can be seen at the base of the cliffs. According to an information board a light of some description has existed on the point since the 1600s. It was a fire in a bazier on the roof of a cottage built on the point in those days.

Oh the sun burn!


We retrace our steps. After a brief stop in the seaside town of Kilkeel, we press on to the geological park called The Burren. Click this link for more information. It seems barren at first, but hidden in the nooks and crannies are colourful plants.

The road clings to the coast rounding Black Head and heads east towards the city of Galway.

We stop for lunch. The roads are not so testing but the added traffic means concentration is paramount.

Galway is a city like any other. Not much to write about but there was no other way to get to our accommodation for the night. So we stopped for another coffee then pressed on to journeys end.

We had 5 near misses today. Drivers came around bends on our side of the road. Others pulled out in front of us at junctions. Until now the standard of driving has been good. Today was not. The silly thing is most of them were on Irish plate cars and they did not care. Maybe hire cars. Who knows. No apologies. Nothing. So take care if ever you come this way. Take your time and be aware of the road conditions at all times and you will be fine. Maybe it was just one of those days.

We are now set for the night. Tomorrow we head for Cong where the film the Quiet Man was filmed with John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara.

Day 5 rest day in Dingle and day 6 Dingle to Kilrush.

Woodend WandererLeave a comment

Our day of rest in Dingle was wonderful. The sun shone brightly all day and we got burnt to a crisp. No excuses just stupid. Not enough sun cream and too long outdoors. The day ended in a pub with a nice cold Guinness. Of course it did.

Well rested of body and mind are we after our days rest in Dingle. This is what a body needing rest looks like. He is going to kill me when he sees this. Bear in mind this is 9:15 in the morning.

We had a decent breakfast. Then, we bid our hosts, Pat and his daughter Anne-Marie, farewell. We wrote something apt in their visitors book and departed. Duinin House is a 10/10 place. Well presented, clean and warm and friendly hosts, I can’t fault the place at all.


The day dawned heavily overcast but as we left the cloud looked like it was breaking in places. It was dry. We retraced our steps to Dingle and struck west to join the Slea Head tourist route. The road snakes its way around the coast climbing and dipping as the contours allow. This is bleak country. Stone walls enclose sheep in small fields. Beehive structures dating back hundreds of years dot the coastline. They used to house animals, crops and even families.


The road continues back to Dingle where we refuelled before heading up into the Connor Pass. The view from the top is usually spectacular. Today we were in cloud with zero visibility, a strong wind and a chilly and damp air clung around us. We took a photo. Descending down the other side of the pass, the road is down to one lane clinging to the rock face. We drop below cloud level and the view goes on for miles and miles.

A tad breezy up in the lofty heights of the Connor Pass. Apologies for the sound.


The road then follows a rather dull route into the large city of Tralee. It seems to be a bit of a sprawl. Run down in parts. New shopping zones in others. True of many towns. We pass through. The road leaves the major route and heads north west towards the beach and the seaside town of Ballyheigue. It is a bustling little town. It is busy with holiday makers. Continuing on through Drommartin, Ballyduff and Ballybunion we arrive in Tarbert. Here is the southern end of the River Shannon Ferry crossing. The ferry is already boarding when we arrive and we are beckoned onboard the MV Shannon Dolphin by a crew member and park our bikes for the 15 minute crossing over to Killimer on the north shore.


The run to our stay for the night is a short 4 miles for we are staying in a floating pod in Kilrush marina. Rather unusually it sits on a raft tethered to a pontoon. It rocks about on the water. Just like being back at sea again. We took a walk up into town to find somewhere for dinner. Nothing! A supermarket shop for a roast chicken and a bottle of wine sorted the evening menu.

Todays ride was around 200 kms, around 125 miles.

We are now in County Clare having left County Kerry. Tomorrow we continue our journey north into County Galway.