Day 3. Castletownbere to Cloon

Yup. I have no idea where Cloon is either but here we are. Lets start at the days dawning.

The sun eased its way above the horizon to be veiled by clouds. The clouds parted. Briefly. The sun continued its valiant effort to bring warmth to this part of Ireland. The jury is out on its success.

Its gallant attempts did not go unnoticed by my good self. “OOO Andy, Blue skies”. Zero response from my colleague in duvet land in his bed. Nothing. Oh well. It was only 5:40 in the morning. The weather looked good to start with.

We got up, showered and ate a hearty breakfast. We started packing the bikes up and the only black cloud on the entire west coast of Ireland moved over and dropped its contents on us. Clearly we have been praying to the wrong God.

Slightly moist now we set off on the days ride.

The road continues in a SW direction. Sometimes rough and ready and sometimes even worse than that but always fabulous on a motorcycle. 


We stopped briefly at the carpark where the cable car to Dursey Island leaves should you choose to be transported in what looks like a caravan suspended above the sea on wires. Not for us. We chose to take a selfie in the rain instead.


Retracing our steps and in what can only be described as a chance encounter in a lay-by we came across a cairn attesting to a feat of amazing seamanship. Blink and you would have missed it. A photo was taken. 


On On!! We followed the tourist route of the Beara Ring. For tourist route read farm track. In many places it was a single track road with eye height bracken obscuring everything. Grass grew down the middle of the road. The bracken obscured Camper vans driven by loons who thought that 60 km/hr was a safe speed coming the other way. It beggars belief why people drive faster than the distance they can stop in. Anyway. We continued on to a small cafe in Eyeries where a coffee and a slab of carrot and walnut cake in warmth and shelter alleviated the rising damp that had by now found its way past ankle height, above the knees, above even the trouser area into the midriff where the bottom of my shirt got wet. We needed to dry out. We went from wet to damp to slightly moist in around 45 minutes.

We continued on. Stopping now and then to take in the vistas and have a break the kilometres passed.

We turned off to take the Healy Pass road. If there is one road that simply must be ridden on a motorcycle then this is it. Twists, hairpin bends, a climb into a mountain pass and a descent to boot had us both grinning.

We stopped at the top to take some photos. Whilst I was snapping away Andy took a tumble behind me. He slipped on a rock. I turned and he was lying on the ground. I ran over and did what all good friends would do in such a dire situation. I roared with laughter. Called him various unpleasant names. He took a photo of me laughing from his prone position. He has a little bruise to show for it. I helped him up. I had to. Who else was going to pour my gin and tonic later in the day?

We moved on.

Back to Glengariff and turn north into the Caha Pass. A brief stop for a coffee break at Molly Gallivans Emporium.

We dropped down into Kenmare township for lunch. A superb bowl of Seafood chowder. Rich, tasty and a boon to the weary and now getting dry biker.

The final leg of our journey took us onto the southern part of the Ring of Kerry. It is busy. Tourist coaches rattle along at a fair pace. Traffic is busy. But then again it is promoted as a premier tourist route. For me, the Beara Ring is much more rustic, more beautiful and less trodden. 


We arrived at our stop for the night. The Old School House in Cloon. Quirky, well lived in, an owner who keeps bees, a little dog that greets you. Time to rid ourselves of the last vestiges of the days showers, relax, recharge self and various gizmos batteries and write home. 140 miles of smiling, cussing, oh wowing and sheer unadulterated motorcycling pleasure. 

Day 2. Clonakilty to Castletownbere on the Wild Atlantic Way.

Our host for our overnight stay in Clonakilty was Joan. She was like your mother. She just wanted to feed us all the time. She sent us on our way after an amazing breakfast. We left the B+B and the road meanders south. It passes the Dunmore House hotel and follows a coastal route. The route is dotted with rocky inlets. We pass small hamlets with lovely names like Rosscarbery, Glandore, and Rineen. Then, we dropped into the larger town of Skibbereen for a coffee. 

So far the rain had held off. It did not last. Whilst enjoying the coffee, the rain came. Not much. But persistent for about an hour.

We tried to find a waterproof over jacket for Andy. Unfortunately, none of the shops had one. So, we pressed on. 

The local rural roads have an R designation and some were basic to say the least. Although tarmac  covered they were bumpy and very narrow at times. The major roads are designated as N and are so much better but a little boring. So a mix of both produces an interesting ride and makes progress at the same time.

The road twists and bends around the coast. Surprises are to be found at every turn. Small coastal settlements with tiny harbours offer safe moorings for yachts and fishing boats alike. Children line up in lifejackets to take kayak lessons. A man loads a van with trays of langoustines in crushed ice. They have newly arrived on a fishing boat. A whale bone lies at the roadside. Yes, a whales jaw bone.


The road continues west towards Mizzen Head. It passes Ballydehob (got to love that name), Schull, and the Altar Wedge tomb. There, my touring companion decided to put it to good use and stretch his back. The ancestors would be mortified. 


Now we started to feel the full force of a strong west wind blowing off the Atlantic. It was 25 to 30 knots, buffeting and needed a slower pace to be safe. The road continues its sinuous passage culminating at the most SW part of Ireland, Mizzen Head. It is a windswept and barren part of the world punctuated by cliffs and wild waters. A lighthouse warns mariners away. Among the barren rocks purple heather and yellow gorse bring vivid colour highlights.

We returned to our bikes. We retraced our path to Goleen and struck north towards the town of Durrus. In Durrus, Andy got a waterproof jacket in a charity shop for €10. Of course he did. I won’t hear the last of it. Mind you, it is a disgusting shade of puce.

We navigated around the Sheeps Head route on fairly good roads. We then dropped down into Bantry for a late lunch. We refueled both ourselves and the bikes. Bantry is a delightful little town nestled at the east end of Bantry Bay. It has an array of useful shops. A boon for the motorcycle tourist. I picked up a new Micro SD card for my camera. I also bought a cable for my external hard drive because I had forgotten to bring it with me.

Refreshed we pressed on to our final stop. Tonight we stay at the Island View guesthouse in Castletownbere. The wind is showing signs of abating. A hot mug of tea and some time to relax in shelter start to recharge the batteries. They relieve the aching muscles. Today has been a good day. Wonderful and challenging roads with weather to test us, scenery to inspire any poet and good craic with the locals.

Total mileage today was 145 miles although it did feel like more.

Discovering Ireland by Motorcycle: A 3-Week Adventure 2024.

On two wheels this time. Well 4 in total I suppose. The two amigos are at it again. Last year we ran around Scotland on our motorbikes. Now it is the turn of Ireland to greet these two petrol heads.

Yes, I know I just returned from Ireland in a motorhome with Debbie and Leia dog. But the motorcycle trip was planned before the motorhome trip. The latter being a last minute decision and was simply awesome.

Can a motorcycle trip with this loon match the motorhome trip?

You will have to follow to find out.

The adventure of epic proportions starts on 23rd July and will take 3 weeks. Out and back to Rosslare in SE Ireland encompassing the Wild Atlantic Way, Northern Ireland and down through Central Ireland. The pace is set to allow time to mosey along and take in all the Emerald Isle has to offer.

The motorcycle experience will be completely different to the motorhome journey. Not least that we are doing it in the high tourist season. It had to tie in with my leave from the ship. If any of my dear readers have must do’s then do comment and we will see if we can get to them.

Until my first grand post I shall leave you salivating at whats to come. Ta ta.