Woodend Wanderer

Our host for our overnight stay in Clonakilty was Joan. She was like your mother. She just wanted to feed us all the time. She sent us on our way after an amazing breakfast. We left the B+B and the road meanders south. It passes the Dunmore House hotel and follows a coastal route. The route is dotted with rocky inlets. We pass small hamlets with lovely names like Rosscarbery, Glandore, and Rineen. Then, we dropped into the larger town of Skibbereen for a coffee. 

So far the rain had held off. It did not last. Whilst enjoying the coffee, the rain came. Not much. But persistent for about an hour.

We tried to find a waterproof over jacket for Andy. Unfortunately, none of the shops had one. So, we pressed on. 

The local rural roads have an R designation and some were basic to say the least. Although tarmac  covered they were bumpy and very narrow at times. The major roads are designated as N and are so much better but a little boring. So a mix of both produces an interesting ride and makes progress at the same time.

The road twists and bends around the coast. Surprises are to be found at every turn. Small coastal settlements with tiny harbours offer safe moorings for yachts and fishing boats alike. Children line up in lifejackets to take kayak lessons. A man loads a van with trays of langoustines in crushed ice. They have newly arrived on a fishing boat. A whale bone lies at the roadside. Yes, a whales jaw bone.

The road continues west towards Mizzen Head. It passes Ballydehob (got to love that name), Schull, and the Altar Wedge tomb. There, my touring companion decided to put it to good use and stretch his back. The ancestors would be mortified. 

Now we started to feel the full force of a strong west wind blowing off the Atlantic. It was 25 to 30 knots, buffeting and needed a slower pace to be safe. The road continues its sinuous passage culminating at the most SW part of Ireland, Mizzen Head. It is a windswept and barren part of the world punctuated by cliffs and wild waters. A lighthouse warns mariners away. Among the barren rocks purple heather and yellow gorse bring vivid colour highlights.

We returned to our bikes. We retraced our path to Goleen and struck north towards the town of Durrus. In Durrus, Andy got a waterproof jacket in a charity shop for €10. Of course he did. I won’t hear the last of it. Mind you, it is a disgusting shade of puce.

We navigated around the Sheeps Head route on fairly good roads. We then dropped down into Bantry for a late lunch. We refueled both ourselves and the bikes. Bantry is a delightful little town nestled at the east end of Bantry Bay. It has an array of useful shops. A boon for the motorcycle tourist. I picked up a new Micro SD card for my camera. I also bought a cable for my external hard drive because I had forgotten to bring it with me.

Refreshed we pressed on to our final stop. Tonight we stay at the Island View guesthouse in Castletownbere. The wind is showing signs of abating. A hot mug of tea and some time to relax in shelter start to recharge the batteries. They relieve the aching muscles. Today has been a good day. Wonderful and challenging roads with weather to test us, scenery to inspire any poet and good craic with the locals.

Total mileage today was 145 miles although it did feel like more.