At only 110 miles today was meant to be a more relaxed day. A day to rest a little and enjoy the sunshine at days end. Wrong!
Our stay last night was at the Valleyview guest house in Murkle. Our host was really lovely and chatty and made us most welcome. The place was spotless. The beds were incredibly comfortable and the breakfast prepared by her husband was amazing. We scored it 9/10. It dropped a point only because the shower was a bit weak. I know. Picky.
We woke to a foggy morning, heavy with dew and chilly. By 9am it had started to break a little. We set off for Thurso hoping to stop at Tescos and failed. Miserably. As a navigator by trade I was mortified but there were no signs for a superstore. Nothing!
Not to worry. We refuelled and took a minor detour inland on a road I shall probably never ride on again. We passed the Douneray nuclear power station and joined what we thought was the ‘main road’ west. It quickly turned into lots of single track sections of road with often poor surfacing with passing places. It was the main road. But I must say most drivers were very courteous. There were a few numpties that avoided eye contact and would not yield but hey ho! Allow plenty of time to ride on roads in this area. We discovered what must be one of the remotest telephone boxes in the UK. We had to stop and be stupid. It was devoid of any telephony equipment but it made a perfect photo op.
We stopped at the Weavers and Norse cafe and bakehouse near Tongue for a coffee and a slice of something naughty. Home baked goodies beckon. What a welcoming stop this place was. Visit it if in this area and what a view from their back garden.
We then rode over Kyle of Tongue Causeway that crosses Loch Hope which for me marks the beginning of the west coast section of the ride. We stopped for photos and continued onto the road around Loch Eriboll. What a road! Mostly single track with plentiful passing passing places. Twisty. Views to die for. Slow going. But Oh My Lord! A must do.
Next stop was Smoo Cave. Now I have visited many caves in the world and Smoo cave promised to be up there with them. I did not baulk at the £10 entrance fee. However I did take issue with the cave guide wearing a plastic Viking helmet complete with horns. The sheer majesty of nature does not need a muppet in a plastic helmet to show me around. Needless to say I chose not to part with my money and enter.
We continued on, passing Durness and then striking south to Scourie. We arrived at 14:00. Our accommodation for the night was not available until 15:00. What to do. It is fair to say that Scourie is not a sprawling metropolis. Places for food and drink are scarce. But the village shop was open, purveyors of essentials and we ate a cold pie with a bottle of water and it was divine. We sat in the sun until 14:45 and rode the 2 minutes to our accommodation for the night. The Tighlochan Pod. Wow. It is divine. Peaceful. Quiet and idyllic. You must try it. Owned by Krysha and her husband Wayne and their 3 children this is a little haven of peace. They are a lovely family and this is a new venture for them. They have one pod which we are staying in. Another is nearing completion and it is heavenly. Andy went into Scourie to a van selling fish and chips and we are set for the night. I will let you know our thoughts in the morning.
Woodend Wanderer 