Day 28, Whitby to home and reflection

The 215 miles drive home was of no real value to thee trip. It was just to get home the quickest way possible, empty the van of all our stuff and give it a brief clean. But what it did do was give us time to reflect on the past month on tour. In no particular order here are our thoughts should you ever choose to do something similar yourself. Here are our 10 tips:

  1. Choose your van carefully. We wanted a permanent bunk so we did not have to worry about making it up every night. Particularly if we were tired or just wanted to go to bed early, or have an afternoon snooze. Ours lifted up to the ceiling of the van and we kept the duvet and pillows on it so it was just a case of lowering it and voila!. The down side was that it was across ways and needed some ladders to get into it even when it was down. Great if you are in your 20s, 30s etc, not 60s. Also to get to the loo one had to crawl over the other to get out. Make sure your van rental company uses Calor gas. It is readily available all over Ireland in supermarkets etc. Our rental company van had Flogas. Disaster. No suppliers in Ireland. Calor gas bottles will fit but you pay more. Also note that UK and Ireland gas bottle fittings differ. We were asked whether we had northern or Southern fittings by a supplier when I phoned them. I did not know. Turns out its northen or southern Ireland and they are different. Choose your van carefully.
  2. The Irish people are simply brilliant. We did not come across anybody who was less than super helpful, friendly and did not want to chat. Sometimes for a long time.
  3. Ireland is a glorious country. But allow plenty of time if exploring the west for the roads can be very narrow, the walls and hedges are high and right on the roadside and the locals drive like they own them. I suppose they do. The quality of the road surface varies from superb new tarmac to terrible. Average speeds therefore are way down on what you might expect.
  4. Ireland is not well served with campsites and motorhome pitches that you may be used to home. We did camp out in the wilds on some nights and that was adorable but you still need to empty the loo tank and fill up with water every three days or so. Places to do so were few unlike New Zealand where facilities are in virtually every town and garage. Be prepared and plan (but not to plan it to death. Allow some freedom). Those campsites we did stay at were well run and by super friendly people. Some were quite basic and others not so. All were clean and well kept. Of note was that in the Irish campsites you are more likely to have to pay extra for showers. Have 1 Euro coins with you.
  5. Even though the roads are as described the volume of traffic is way down on what you may expect at home. Often the roads were deserted unless around the big towns.
  6. If taking a dog into Ireland go via a ferry to Northern Ireland for the roads are seamless crossing the border. In fact you would not know there was a border other than the road signs change from Miles an hour to kilometres an hour and the welcome to Ireland sign. There was no evidence of any checks. We went on the ferry from the UK to Ireland and were directed to Customs as soon as we got off the ferry to clear the dog and check her paperwork. Not even a passport check on us. £220 pounds we paid before we left to have the dog vaccinated, wormed and a health certificate. Kerching! I could be wrong but crossing from Northern Ireland to Ireland and back would have been checkless and free.
  7. Don’t be afraid to start a conversation with people. I even ended up doing an advert for sun cream with a chemist in Ramelton simply because I said we came from New Zealand and I had a growth cut out of the arm skin. The Irish love to talk. No really they do. And talk a lot so make time for that.
  8. The volume of traffic when we crossed back to the UK increased very noticeably. How the heck did we ever allow so many heavy trucks on the UK roads. The road transport lobby must be very powerful. In Ireland on the other hand we saw very few big trucks. But we did avoid the motorways and the toll roads.
  9. Allow the occasional day to do absolutely nothing. You will be rewarded. Better to see less and take your time and enjoy what you see rather than belting around and spending all day driving. We usually set off around 10 and were camped up by 3 or 4 pm with plenty of rest breaks. Driving around the Irish west coast peninsulas can be taxing so slow down, enjoy the views and take breaks.
  10. Use your common sense. Don’t go around talking about politics, religion or any other sensitive topic. I found a conversation about rugby usually got the chat going no matter whether I was in a pub, supermarket of campsite. Like most countries in the world I have been to, just be polite. I often asked about Gaelic football and spent the next 20 minutes learning the rules from somebody with a pint of Guiness and speech that I understood around 50% of. But it did not matter.

So there you have it. Would we do it again? Absolutely! In a heartbeat. I loved Ireland so much. It reminded me constantly of New Zealand. It is stunningly beautiful, the people are beautiful, the air is clean and fresh. Whats not to like about that.

Todays Mileage:215 miles.

Total mileage home back to home: 2775 miles.

Day 19, Island Magee to Stranraer

Our adventure around Ireland came to a close today but what a blast it has been. We left the campsite early today and said goodbye to the farmer on whose land the site rests. He was busy feeding his chickens, ducks and guinea fowl in the farmyard. A scene from a Constable.

We headed south along the A2 for the short drive into the town of Carrickfergus. Dominated by its castle on the shore it was a sleepy monday morning here. It started to rain. It did not stop. But for us it was a chance to grab a decent breakfast at Springsteens American Diner. Give them their due, they did do an amazing, if not the healthiest grant you, breakfast with non stop coffee. Debbie popped into Sainsbury’s next door whilst I took the dog for a walk around the marina. Clearly Carrickfergus was a place of some importance in days of yore. With a Scotch[sic] quarter and an Irish quarter (the other two quarters were missing?) this place has history. Alas we could not stick around to find out what it was.

Carrickfergus Castle

The road down into Belfast passes through the suburbs found in any town around the globe. We checked into Stena Line for the Cairnryan sailing. It is a route I have never been on. We were first to arrive for the 15:30 sailing. Just as we started to board it really started to pour with rain. Debbie spied the gusty wind conditions and popped a seasick tablet in her mouth just in case.

The last view of Northern Ireland. Rain!

She need not have worried. The dog stayed in the van and took up residence in Debbie’s front seat. The crossing was quick. 2 hours 25 minutes berth to berth. When we returned to the van the dog was still in Debbie’s seat curled up until we opened the van door. You would think we had been away for hours by the greeting we got.

We are now set for the night in Ryan Bay campsite just to the north of Stranraer. It is lashing down with rain. It is time to do nothing but get our books out. It is a filthy night. We arrived into Ireland in dirty weather. We left Northern Ireland in dirty weather. The beginning of the Scotland Sojourn seems likely to continue in the same vein.

The route around Ireland and Northern Ireland. In at Rosslare. Out at Belfast.

Tomorrow we have a 280 mile drive north. Why? You will have to wait until tomorrow for that.

Todays Distance: 65 miles including the ferry crossing.

Total Distance: 1698 miles.

Day 18, Golden Sands to Islandmagee, County Antrim.

Today we continued along the Coastal tourist route following the A2 road. It is easily followed as there are signposts all the way with Causeway Coastal Route on them. Billed as one of the world great Road journeys it is worth doing.

There is a noticeable difference in the volume of traffic on the road. It was much busier. It is also a very sunny and warm weekend but I think I preferred the lanes of the West of Ireland more. There are a lot more people about too. Many of the seaside towns we passed through were very busy. Something we rarely saw on the west coast. Some were delightful such as Articlave and Coleraine. We passed the beautiful Royal Portrush golf course and it was very busy.

One event we had not planned on bumping into was the NW200 motorcycle race. Road Racing around a circuit roughly based on the towns of Portstewart, Portrush and Coleraine, the event ran from the 6th to 11th May. Today was clean up day and returning the circuit back to normal road use. It was very busy in that area, particularly with the thousands of motorcycles and fans that had gathered and were now heading home.

Our first stop of the day was the Giants Causeway. It was a must see. As a child I had a boardgame with the Giants Causeway as a stop on it. I had seen TV shows aplenty. But to stand there was amazing. Made up of around 40,000 basalt columns of mainly hexagonal profile it looks like a bees honeycomb from above.

The path is flat along the shore but behind it there is a path called the shepherds stairs consisting of 167 steps up the cliff face. We chose to do that to get a bit of air into our lungs. The views from the top are worth it as you look along the length of the bay and down onto the bus stop by the main columns. Yes there is a bus from the visitors centre down the slope to the columns and back if you need it.

It is difficult to walk away from this UNESCO World Heritage site without a sense of wonder. I have seen the same columns on the Isle of Staffa and Fingals Cave across the water in Scotland formed by the same volcanic events that formed the Giants Causeway. You simply cannot pass by without going to see it.

We moved along. This whole coast is full of dramatic cliffs and Vistas. Epitomised by the ruins of Dunluce Castle, the views are staggering and vestigial. Time has eroded these cliffs.

The ruins of Dunluce Castle. Not for the Lord with Vertigo!

The road continues around the NE corner of the Island at Ballycastle (which features in my own genealogy) before dropping to the coast at Cushendall. This is a lovely little town complete with Sunday market, people eating ice creams and lots of motorcyclists stopping for a coffee.

The road then snakes its way hugging the waters edge, literally at times to pass through the large and rather dull looking town of Larne before we arrived at our campsite for the night in Islandmagee.

We are only 40 minutes away from the ferry terminal in Belfast where we will cross over to Scotland tomorrow completing the Irish sector of our adventure. We have unfinished business in Scotland to attend to which will then see us heading south for home. More to come before then though.

Todays distance: 89 miles

Total distance: 1633 miles.

Day 17, Culdaff Beach to Golden Sands holiday park.

Today dawned bright, calm and warm. It had all the makings of a really lovely day for our last on the Wild Atlantic Way. It would be only 70 miles from start of day to the rest place for the evening. I wanted to be on the County Antrim coast to set us up to visit the Giants Causeway the following day. Under a bright blue sky we set off.

As I was to turn right out of the beach carpark I spied this right opposite and thought it was another gem of a find and simply had to be researched for more information. Alas I could find nothing so if there are any sleuths out there I would be interested to know. Not least why an RAF pilot is flying a Royal Navy aircraft.

On we went following green and pleasant lanes to the west coast of Lough Foyle. I wanted to see the lighthouse at Inishowen head. It flashes Fl(2) WRG 10s. This means that it is a sectored light having a white sector, a green sector and a red sector and flashes twice in 10 seconds. The fact it is sectored means that is covering a danger. To be safe and clear of the danger you must stay in the white sector as you approach the Lough. If you see a green light you are too far to starboard and need to come to port to enter the white sector. If you see red you are too far to port and need to alter your course to starboard to enter the white sector. It is likely guiding ships into Lough Foyle passed some outlying rocks or sandbanks. Here is the mariners chart showing the light house circled and the three coloured sectors. The red is indeed covering outlying sandbanks whilst the green helps clear the headland. By keeping the light dead ahead and white ships can safely enter the Lough.

But as I have mentioned previously it is what you find that you did not know about that brings these places to life.Next to the lighthouse there was this information board.

The board talks of Colmcille. You may know him better as Columba. For it was from here that Columba sailed to Scotland and the Island of Iona to take Christianity to the Picts. I have been to his monastery on Iona but I always thought he left Ireland from closer to Rathlin island further east along the coast. If interested you can read more here.

We then took the road south along the Lough to the delightful little town on the waters edge of Greencastle to take on supplies before continuing south to the larger town of Moville. Still modest in size, Moville is a quintessential seaside town. It was a very pleasant little place. A notice board in the town states “Moville was a point of embarkation for travellers, especially emigrants, to Canada and the United States of America. In the late 19th century, steamships of the Glasgow-based Anchor Line and Allan Line made port at Moville while en route to and from New York, while just after the turn of the 20th century, the Canadian Pacific Line also established a terminal at the port as part of their service connecting Liverpool and Montreal for Canadian-bound Irish immigrants.”

Another feature on interest was an arrow carved in a stone in a layby that we stopped briefly in, in yet another blink and you miss it item of interest. I can imagine that the sealed road was a cart track when the surveyors stone was inlaid into the wall.

We continued on to the border with Northern Ireland and the end of the Wild Atlantic Way. The way ends right on the border in the rather nondescript town of Muff.

In the blink of an eye the road signs are in miles per hour instead of Kilometres and the phone numbers on businesses are now familiar UK format. There is no formal border crossing, no duty free, nothing. The road changes from the R238 on the Irish side to the A2 on the Northern Irish side. It is the same road. All the formalities we went through in Rosslare with the dog and the expense and the visit to Irish customs simply don’t exist here. We could simply have crossed the border and back with zero checks at all. Weird!

We passed through the large town of Derry/Londonderry. The name depends on who you talk to. The first road sign for Londonderry had the London spray painted over.

The adventure is not over yet. We will now pass along the Antrim Coast tourist route to get to our ferry in Belfast. We still have another 11 days with the van so we will cross to Scotland as there is still unfinished business there to attend to.

Our campsite tonight is the Golden Sands campsite in Benone. It is huge and busy and full of families enjoying the weather parked on top of each other. It is not our cup of tea at all but it was all I could find that had space available on a Saturday night. The glorious weather has brought everybody out for the weekend. Give me Sleepy Hollows campsite with its 10 pitches over this any day. There must be close to 300 caravans, motorhomes and large caravan homes here. But it will do for a night.

Todays distance: 70 miles.

Total distance: 1544 miles.