There were only two real goals to try and achieve today. One was to visit the site of Kells Abbey. This was because my wife Debbie had seen the Book of Kells in Dublin. I wanted to see where it had been kept for 700 years before being deposited in Trinity College Library Dublin. The other was the Battle of the Boyne site. I had read much on this and wanted to visit.

With that in mind we awoke to a glorious morning. A light warm breeze had kept the bikes free of dew overnight. After a decent breakfast we packed up our stuff onto the bikes and set off for Kells.

The road from Castlepollard to Kells is the R195 and is an easy ride in the morning sun. It is sunday. The smell of freshly mown lawns wafts on the warm breeze. It is rich. It reminds me of my boys following around the garden as I mowed the lawn when they were growing up. As the road reaches Kells we pass the Spire of Lloyd. A magnificent tower set atop a hill on the side of the road. 

Kells at first appearance is just another Irish town. Nothing remarkable stands out. But oh how I was wrong. A large square structure of white plastic sheeting around scaffolding stands proud. It is the Kells Abbey tower. The only remaining remnant of the original abbey. It is being restored and maintained and is hidden from view. I have to resort to a web picture to show you what it’s like. I must credit lovetovisitireland.com for the photo.

A fairly modern church, St Columba’s Church, now stands on the site of the old abbey. A picture board at the entrance alludes to the scene from the past. It is quite humbling.

Only the tower remains today. To think we were parked just outside the southern gate . We stop and reflect. We move on.

The R163 strikes east through Gibbstown and joins the N51. It is a nondescript road but carries us quickly to The Battle of the Boyne visitors centre.

We had just parked the bikes. We were heading to the cafe when we met three of the staff working at the centre. Employed by the OPW, Office for Public Works, they are a credit to to Ireland. How lucky we were. One of the men was Graham Hartnett. He was one of those amazing individuals that bring something special to your day.

We chatted and mentioned we were going for a coffee. He started to show us to the cafe. Outside the stately home that is now the visitors’ centre, he turned us to look over the battlefield.

Then he started to tell us about the battle. I was under his spell. His enthusiasm for the subject became infectious. Now I have been to the site of the Charge of the Light Brigade. I have also been to General Menchikov’s redoubt, Nagasaki, and Hiroshima. I listened to guides. But none came close to Graham’s talk on the Battle of the Boyne. Having read much, I thought I knew what the battle was all about. But Graham filled in much of what I was missing. You can read about this in books. But get someone like Graham to bring it alive in front of you……well that lasts a lifetime. Thank you Sir!

I also had no idea how much of European and UK history sprung from this one battle. For example, the Pope supported the Williamite cause against the Catholic Jacobites and much more. I strongly suggest you go. Seek out Graham and listen to his infectious and enthusiastic commentary. This 20 minutes in his company has epitomised our trip to Ireland. Warmth, friendship, and a willingness to share. The laser-enhanced demonstration of the battle in the visitors’ center is also truly excellent.

Time was pressing on. After a cup tea and delicious almond slice in the cafe we had to move on.

We had intended to go to the Newgrange neolithic site not far from the Boyne visitors centre. But we had ran out of time. We will save that for another day. 

Taking the L1601 we now go west next to the Boyne Navigation canal. We skirt around Navan and take the R161 Southwest. This leads us to the very pretty town of Trim. This very tidy town has it all.

A castle, beautiful churches, a river and a substantial monument to the Duke of Wellington. Arthur Wellesey, better known as the 1st Duke of Wellington or ‘the Iron Duke’, was educated at Trim. He spent much of his childhood at the nearby Dangan Castle, his father’s country house (now in ruins). He was also an MP for Trim. Every day is a school day in Ireland. I had no idea of Wellingtons connection to Ireland.

The road from here on in follows farm tracks and country roads. It winds through pasture lands. We get our first glimpse of the Wicklow mountains where we shall be tomorrow. We pass the Curragh race course. It is huge. Immaculate grass clipped to perfection waiting for horses to rip it to shreds. We are in racing country.

Journeys end is in the small town of Kilcullen.

As the day draws to a close dark clouds gather. A few spots of rain spatter the window.

It has been a very different riding day today. Easy roads. Some rough in places, especially where they crossed the bogs south of Edenberry. The countryside could be anywhere in England: undulating and green, but with a certain feel to it. I can’t put my finger on it. That is until you interact with the wonderful local people. I do love this country.