This was a blog transferred from my old website and is reposted here to preserve it. It is the story of our walk to Santiago De Compostella across Northern Spain. It was one of those experiences that needs to go on everybody’s bucket list. It is life changing.

Getting Ready

How exactly do you get ready for something like this? A walk of 800 Kms from the French side of the Pyrenees, over the mountains into Spain and onto Santiago De Compostela.

We got books. The first was a step by step guide to the Camino by John Brierley. There are many guide books out there but I liked the look and feel of this publication. The other book is ‘The pilgrimage Road to Santiago’ by Gitlitz and Davidson. This is not a guide book. It describes itself as the complete cultural handbook and is more about what to see along the Way such as architecture, flora and fauna, history and so forth. Between the two you get enough information to give you a good start.

Visits to various camping shops to get a good fitting backpack of around 35 to 40 litres capacity and other essentials for each of us was the highest priority. We already had decent walking boots that we took time to wear in and get supple. Carrying too much weight is a strict don’t do. No more than 10% of your body weight is a good guide. No need for a tent as we will be staying in the pilgrim hostels along the route. Carrying too much weight for 800 Kms is a real don’t do.

We have spent a lot of time pouring over the excellent forum which is a wealth of knowledge and I thoroughly recommend you read it if ever you do this yourself. Here is a link to it.

21 May 2014

Nearly packed

Two backpacks ready to go.

We are just about as ready as we will ever be. We have packed our back packs, then took it all out again and repacked them over and over again until we are happy. The golden rule of carrying no more than 10% of your body weight has been maintained.

We will travel up to London on the 3rd of June, stay overnight and catch the 0715 Eurostar train to Paris and then the TGV to Bayonne and onto St Jean Pied de Port. We stay the night of the 4th in St Jean and then on the morning of the 5th June our Camino starts. I hope to keep you all updated along the Way if and when we get WiFi in the bigger towns.

29 May 2014

Day 1: Home To London

Setting out for our Camino

Not sure if this is day one or not. If the pilgrimage starts at the time you set foot outside your front door then this is day one.

We bid farewell to Leo and took the train to London. Our hotel is the Kings Cross Inn and we are sat in room LG05. LG is lower ground. We are below ground. 

Room LG05, a room without a view

Our view is not of the magnificent structure of the station but of cigarette butts, a dead plant and a wall. It is not the best room we have ever stayed in but it is right across from the station where we need to be tomorrow morning for a 6am check in. The rumbling of tube trains beneath our feet somewhere will no doubt lull us to sleep. The pictures on booking.com were not quite a true story of the room but it is a bed for the night. 

The station on the other hand is simply magnificent. I have seen stations similar in cities around the world but none match it for magnificence.

St Pancras Station

So having had a very nice dinner at a nearby pizza restaurant I am off to bed. 

I must admit to being a little nervous about all this. I still hope my knees and feet will hold for all of this and I won’t let Debbie down. Time will tell. I am really looking forward to the journey through France on the Eurostar and TGV trains tomorrow.

4 June 2014

Day 2: Arrival in St Jean Pied De Port.

St Pancras station and our Eurostar awaits.

After an awful nights sleep in London we woke to the alarm clock at 5am, showered and dressed and headed for St Pancras International station to catch the 0701 Eurostar train to Paris Gare De Nord. I am sold on this mode of transport. For €48.50 single it is the only way to get to Paris. We passed through security and passport control in less than 5 minutes. We were first mind you but there is no hassle at all. After a breakfast of fruit, yoghurt and tea in the station cafe we boarded the train, departed at 0701 precisely and arrived in the Gare De Nord at 10:17 right on time.

A bit of a blurry Debbie in the Gard De Nord.

You can buy the tickets for the Metro on the Eurostar train and it’s a little cheaper to do so. You also miss the queues at the ticket booths in Paris. Metro line 4 took us directly to Gare Montparnasse 25 minutes later. No changing, easy peasy. Gare Montparnasse is not a pleasant station being reinforced concrete with little sparkle to it. It is a marked change to the magnificent central stations in London.

The TGV on the other hand leaves UK trains looking like museum pieces. It was magnificent. Quiet, smooth and very very fast. It left Paris on time at 12:28, went non stop to Bordeaux and arrived in Bayonne at 19:33, 2 minutes behind schedule for which we received an apology. Incredible.

The local train to St Jean however was cancelled due to a landslide blocking the line so we joined around 40 other people with backpacks on a coach ride to the small town lying at the foot of the Pyrenees.

St Jean Pied de Port.

A short walk took us to our accommodation for the night at 20 Rue De La Citadelle, Maison E. Bernat built in 1662. It is a lovely little place. Not the cheapest place but just wonderful and not 30 metres from the pilgrims office.

Here we had our Pilgrims passport stamped (known as the Credencial) to prove we are now pilgrims on the Way of St James.

We have had a wander around this most delightful little town steeped in so much history. We had dinner at the local cafe and sampled Le Menu Pelegrin, the pilgrims menu. This was a vegetable broth each, chicken and french fries, a crepe and a small carafe of red wine all for €24. Not bad at all. The daily task of washing the drip dry clothing is over, the journals have been updated and its time for a good nights rest. 

5 June 2014

Day 3: St Jean to Orisson refuge 

Distance to go: 789.1 Kms

We had a great night sleep. The extra money was worth it to give us a really good start both physically and mentally. We ate a good breakfast and set off at 9am for the first stop at the Orisson refuge 8 Kms away. The owner and Fiji her Golden Retriever bid us farewell and after a brief stop at the town gate we set off. 

The distance is not so great but there is a climb of around 800 metres to get there. It starts with a steep climb away from St Jean. No easing into this at all. My legs complained but Debbie kept me going. Actually I was surprised how I coped. Yes the leg muscles ached and yes my breathing was heavy but I was really rather pleased that the knees held up. 

The Pilgrims set out!

The views from the Way are simply stunning and we watched red kite raptors thermalling in the gentle airs. Truly magnificent. I had to stop to catch my breath a few times but all in all I am happy with day one. Despite my training on the ship this was hard going.

A breather to admire the view.

On a hill a young Australian was lying on the grass verge so we stopped to see if he was ok. He was enjoying a cigarette and taking a breather. I liked Angus. He is my type of guy. We were to see him later.

We stopped at various points to take in the view and chat with a couple of Irish ladies doing a 3 day walk to Pamplona and a Belgian man that had walked 60 days already from his home. He was super fit.

So I leave you with a few photos of the day.

Simply stunning.

Home for the night.

I was really glad to walk around the corner and see home for the night. All in all it was only a 3 hour walk albeit uphill. We will ease into this gently. Dont want any niggly injuries at this early stage.

Fiji.

Finally this photo is for my son Leo who is dog mad. This is Fiji, the Owners dog. 

Distance walked today: 8.0 Kms

6 June 2014

Day 4: Orisson to Roncevalles.

Sunrise. An early start for us.

Distance to go: 781.1 Kms

It is now abundantly clear to us novices that walking in the early morning is the way to go. The air is cooler, fresher and therefore we are cooler and fresher. Around 4am the wind started to blow and it was a feature for the whole day. It was very desiccating. The sun was out all day just to warm us up.

Pilgrims Way

We walked 19Kms today. It does not sound like much but it has been tough going with some open hill tops battling the wind to steep descents playing havoc with our knees and hips. But we made it and that’s the main thing. I am so glad we decided not to over do it the first few days until we got used to this.

Hill horses roaming freely in the mountains.

It has been an exhilarating day. The scenery has been spectacular and most people we come across are really nice. There are a few old grumps but we just avoid them. We saw hill horses that roam freely and soaring vultures looking for knackered pilgrims and flora and fauna to keep us interested as we huff and puff our way along the route. The high point lies at 1450 metres above sea level and from there the view is fantastic.

We are staying in the monastery in Roncevalles having crossed into Spain now. The facilities are delightful. Hot showers, wifi and they do all your nasty washing for €2.70. Dinner will be in a local restaurant with some of the people we shared food with last night.

My final photo is for Leo again. Another dog walking the Camino with his owner.

Dog for Leo.

Distance walked today: 17.1 Kms

7 June 2014

Day 5: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Roncesvalles Monastery

Debbies home for the  night

Distance to go 764 Kms

Last night we stayed at the pilgrim hostel in the Roncesvalles Monastery. We attended the pilgrim Mass in the church along with around a hundred other people doing the same thing. It was very humbling although all in Spanish. What a magnificent building it is. We each had a bunk bed and Debbie took the lower one. We shared the cubicle with two other people also walking the route.

La Posada

Pilgrims Dinner

Dinner was a pilgrims dinner for €9 in a local restaurant called La Posada. We sat with a very quiet Austrian, a lad from Korea and 2 lads from Sweden.

We set off at 07:20 this morning, passed a sign that reminded us just how far we still had to go, bought some breakfast at a supermarket on our way and set off for Zubiri 22 Kms away. The wind of late had dropped and once again I was so glad we set off really early for there were a few steep climbs and some rough terrain descents to negotiate.

Yes, that far!

It was hot, really hot today. We did stop in Espinal for a ham and cheese baguette which really hit the spot and water. Lots of water to keep hydrated.

More fine views

Angus, the Australian that we met in Orisson decided to have couple of beers at 10 in the morning instead and fell asleep in the chair so we had to leave him and do our own thing. 

Here is dog of the day for Leo. He was taking shelter from the heat and understood our limited Spanish.

Nice pooch

Distance walked today 21.9Kms

8 June 2014

Day 6: Zubiri to Pamplona

A hard slog

Distance to Go: 742.1 Kms

This was a tough walk of 21Kms. Not because the distance or gradients were much to contend with but the heat. That was something else.

Drinks!

New friend.

Inviting.

We had a so so nights sleep at the albergue in Zubiri and after a good breakfast we set off about 07:30 and arrived in Pamplona at 15:00. With hindsight we should have set off earlier to avoid the heat and tomorrow we will. The heat coming up through your feet is energy sapping and we had to stop many times to rehydrate ourselves. I lost my water bottle somewhere along the route so will try and get another tomorrow in Pamplona as the forecast for the next few days is going to be hot. It was 30C today which was too much to walk comfortably in.

Beautiful towns dot the route. This is Trinidad De Arre.

Pamplona city entrance

The walk was varied. Sometimes over hot and dusty trails and sometimes along lush riverbanks but all the time the heat was there with no wind to provide any cooling. I was certainly glad to get to our accommodation in Pamplona, the Albergue Ibarrola. It’s very modern, clean  and with only 20 residents I am really hoping we get a good rest tonight.

Home for the night

We will make a small detour tomorrow as I want to get a photo of the statue of Hemmingway for our son Giles which is outside the bull ring and take a walk down Estefeta which is the street the bulls run down during the famous festival here.

The dog of the day

We are off out to dinner tonight somewhere in the city with our new pilgrim friends.

Distance walked today: 21.1 Kms

9 June 2014

Day 7: Pamplona to Uterga.

Hemmingway information board at the bullring.

Distance to go 721 Kms.

The segment today took us off the Camino to start with as we took a detour to visit the bull ring and the statue of Ernest Hemingway that stood outside. Whether you are a fan of bullfighting or not, the stadium itself is imposing and the statue sits in a prime spot.

Ernest Hemingway

Once we had taken some photos for our Son Giles we re joined the Camino and walked north through the streets of Pamplona out through the northern suburb of Cizur Menor and onto a fairly level path passing the ruins of an old palace, Guendulain before starting a beast of a climb to pass through a small village of Zariquiegui. A fabulous little fountain poured out ice cold water to slake the thirst before the climb continued up to Alto De Perdon lying at 790 metres above sea level some 350 metres above the start point. This just about killed me.

Guendulain ruins

 I was goosed by the time we got to the pilgrims monument at the top. There was no shade on the way up but there was a cooling breeze at the top. Debs and I took our boots and socks off and stayed around 30 minutes to recover. It really was an energy sapping ascent.

Pilgrims Monument on top of  Alto del Perdon

The descent was tough on the knees as it was steep and over loose stones. It was slow going. By the time we got to the bottom we were about done and the small town of Uterga could not come quick enough.

Home for the night.

We stayed at a private albergue called Camino del Perdon. There were only 9 other people with us and it was simply great. Our two friends Keith and his daughter Tanya arrived 2 hours later. Debs and I paid a little extra for a double room rather than a bunk bed. I needed some running repairs to my feet and Debs needed some TLC on hers and it’s much more restful to do that with a modicum of privacy. There was our own shower with fluffy towels too. Luxuries that we can’t have every night.

Tanya, Keith and Debbie

We shared a great dinner in the garden with the 9 others and retired at 20:15. I was asleep as I hit the pillow. This walking business sure takes it out of you but despite all the aches and pains it really is good. 

Dog of the day.  There are many dogs it would seem.

Distance walked today: 17.4 Kms

10 June 2014

Day 8: Uterga to Puente La Reina

Eunate Church

Distance to go: 703.6Kms

What a totally fantastic nights sleep. We decided early on that we would not be walking all day today after the hard day yesterday. We would only walk around 10 Kms to Puente del Reina where we would stock up with a few essentials and give our feet a rest. 

It was a cool and fresh morning when we set off at 7am. We took a small detour to visit the Church of St Mary of Eunate. This was recommended and was well worth the visit. It was not open but we still loved the place. The sun started to warm us up and lit up the honey coloured stone. We stopped for around 30 mins to enjoy the place and eat a slice of apple tart each for breakfast.

Not far to go now.

From here it was a 4.5 Kms walk into the town of Puenta La Reina.

Breakfast

On arrival the first thing we did was have a cup of coffee and a sticky bun and then headed to the post office where we sent all the stuff that we thought would be useful and never used back home. Rain coats, extra shirts and books were boxed up and posted. Relieved of 3.5Kgs in weight we felt so much better.

Puente La Reina

So we have been to the supermarket, we supplied ourselves, got something for dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow morning and are now relaxing beneath a tree watching a stork tending its huge nest atop a chimney not so far away. Not bad. Not bad at all.

Tonights lodgings. Padres Repadores Albergue.

Distance walked today 9.5 Kms

11 June 2014

Day 9: Puente La Reina to Estella

11th Century bridge 

Distance to go 694.1 Kms

We woke at 6am and were on the Way by 0645. It was an overcast and cool morning following some quite heavy rain overnight. This was such a blessing after the recent hot days. The Camino crosses a stunning 11th century bridge before heading off into open countryside.

The first part of the route was pretty easy going until about 0730 when we hit a climb which really got the heart and legs pumping. At the top we stopped and had breakfast and relished it. There were quite a few other pilgrims already ahead of us by this time.

Hilltop villages dot the landscape and the Camino links some of the most pretty. The first we came across was Mańeru.

It was still asleep but in the middle of the village was a water fountain that Debbie topped up our bottles from with cold crisp water. It tasted divine. I have no idea what people do in these small places. They all seem asleep to us as we pass through. The only places open are the occasional cafe or pharmacy hoping for some business from passing pilgrims.

More water.

After a short walk of around an hour we climbed a gentle slope to another hilltop town of Cirauqui. This place was simply divine. Its narrow streets of honey coloured buildings were festooned with baskets of geraniums which really stood out against the stonework. I loved this place. Swallows swirled in the air  looking for nesting sites and the remains of a 2000 year old roman road and bridge still exist and lead the Camino on to Lorca.

Cirauqui

Exit of the town

Lorca

Lorca by contrast was rather ordinary by comparison but it was our lunch stop. It was also a chance to get the boots and socks off which is simply heavenly.

From Lorca we dropped down beside olive and almond trees and vineyards to the town of Villatuerta and crossed a 14th century bridge this time. The place seems dotted with them. 

Villatuerta 14th century bridge

By now our feet were telling us it was time to stop. The sun was now out and the temperature soared to around 28C and we were really hot. At 14:00 we arrived at the municipal albergue which is a bed for the night. Actually a bunk bed in a room with 28 other people also on  bunk beds. Last night we had the Spanish world champion snorer in our room of 6 beds. Let’s see what tonight brings.

Estella

San Pedro church

Leos dog of the day

Finally this savage beast did his best to shoo us away from his patch.

Distance walked today 21 Kms

12 June 2014

Day 10: Estella to Los Arcos

Another glorious morning.

Distance to go: 673.1 Kms

This was a slog today. Not because the terrain was particularly difficult but the sun was again so hot. It got up to 31C today and it was energy sapping. We knew it would rise but the forecast was for 28C……only.

Our breakfast stop. A rock in the forest.

We both slept ok last night in the municipal albergue. We were woken at 4am by the really early birds getting up and rustling about and by 5am we thought we might as well get up and get on with it. The sun rises at 6am so I dont see the point in leaving in the dark as I want to see whats going on. I understand that some want to leave so early to beat the midday heat but there is a balance that needs to be met as well.

We left at 0630 and made our way through the rather non descript northern suburbs of Estella to the Bodega Irache where a fountain of water sits beside a fountain of wine. Yes, you read correctly. Tradition has it that pilgrims are allowed a free glass of wine to fortify themselves for the travels ahead. I did not partake. It was still only 7am. My legs were to see me through a few more Kms yet. We saw pilgrims filling their water bottles with red wine. A choice they may regret later in the day when the suns heat comes into play.

Left tap Vino Tinto, right tap Agua. Your choice.

We passed the stunning monastery Irache and out into the open countryside. At this time of the morning it is simply gorgeous; cool, and bright. This really lifts your spirits and spurs you on.

Villamayor church

King Sancho Garces 1 bust in Villamajor

After a fairly easy walk we passed through the village of Azqueta and replenished our water bottles at the village ‘Fuente’ before starting the climb up to Villamayor de Monjardin. That got the heart pumping again but on arrival at the village you see a simply beautiful place with an amazing little cafe set in a plaza. Here we stopped for a Spanish omelette and a cup of tea. Food of the Gods.

Now we had a walk of 8.7 Kms with no water available until our destination at Los Arcos so we topped off our bottles and set out. This was a really tough stretch. We passed alongside fields of barley, rows of vines and not much else. There was zero shade and the sun was hot…..Damn hot. 

Thirsty work.

By the time we got to Los Arcos our bottles were dry, our feet were really hot and we both ached. I found this day to be one of the hardest yet just because of the heat and lack of shade. The heat coming off the gravel roads really worked your feet hard and made your face hot. With no breeze it was quite uncomfortable. We were both glad to get to Los Arcos. Our choice of decent well worn in footwear was paying dividends.

Entrance to Los Arcos and home for the night

We arrived at 2pm to find our first and second choice of accommodation already full of pilgrims so we splashed out on a pension, pronounced penseeon so we could get the dirt of the road out of us and relax after the day. Whilst staying in the municipal albergue is a good way to meet fellow pilgrims, we found treating ourselves to better accommodation now and then really helped us mentally. A pit stop if you like.

We then joined our walking friends in the main square for a dinner al fresco and a cold beer. Delicious.

Dinner with our walking friends.

It’s our wedding anniversary tomorrow so as a treat we are going to send our packs ahead to our next destination by car and walk with water and food only to give our feet a rest after today. There are a few companies that will transport your packs ahead for you for the price of €6. Whilst this may seem a bit of a cheat, now and then we found it really worthwhile. I am sure pilgrims of old would have sent their packs ahead if they could.

A soggy dog.

Finally my dog of the day is a dog walking with its owners. The dog got hot too and has just had a dip in a cooling pool to the side of the Camino. We were all very envious.

Distance walked today: 21 Kms

13 June 2014

Day 11: Los Arcos to Viana

Debbie and Tanya stride off.

Distance to go: 652 Kms

Today is our wedding anniversary. As a treat we decided to send our back packs ahead by car and walk with a minimum pack of water and a few supplies. Our walking buddies Keith and his daughter Tanya from Ottawa in Canada did the same to give their feet a well earned rest. We set off at 7am and as this was the forecast hottest day of the week so far we wanted to get moving. This is fairly flat country. Fields of golden wheat and barley stretch into the distance.

The first part was easy going on gravel farm tracks and the morning was cool and bright again.

The octagonal shaped Torres del Rio church.

The vaulted roof of Torres del Rio church.

We arrived in the village of Sansol and had a coffee and pastry for breakfast. It was just what the doctor ordered and hit the spot. There are cafes dotted all along the Camino. We found that regular stops to rest and recuperate, even for just 30 minutes was a great thing to do. Rejuvenated we set off again and after a short walk arrived in Torres del Rio. In the middle of the town was the second octagonal church we saw so far. The first was at Eunate on day 8 and this was a little gem. At the entrance to Torres del Rio we spotted a man tending his vegetable garden and stopped to find out what he was growing. He spoke no English and our Spanish was minimal but it made no difference. He waved us goodbye and bid us Buen Camino. You hear that a lot from other pilgrims but not so much from the locals who see pilgrims each and every day so it was special to us.

Approaching Torres del Rio

After Torres del Rio we had a non stop run to Viana over undulating countryside. There were a few steep climbs and descents to test the feet out but again the heat was the main feature. Walking with only a small pack most definitely helped.

27 years married.

We have chosen to stay in another pension for our anniversary. We can’t afford to do this every night for 6 weeks but tonight is special so we have treated ourselves.

Shy pooch.

The dog of the day did his very best to keep his face away. Every time I tried to take a snap he would poke his head through the bead door curtain of the shop we had just left.

Distance walked today: 18.6 Kms

14 June 2014

Day 12: Viana to Navarette

Viana behind us.

Distance to go 633.4 Kms

We had a lovely night in the Casa San Pedro in Viana last night. We shared a glass of wine with our walking friends Keith and Tanya then retired to our room. 

Keith and I with a glass of Rioja on a sofa in the street.

We bought some cheese and meats and tomatoes from a local supermarket and a slab of carrot cake for dessert and had an anniversary picnic dinner on our bed washed down with water would you believe. There are two things you become intimate with on the camino. One is what you eat and drink and the other is your feet. Alcohol is kept to a minimum and feet are examined after every days walk. I know more about my feet than I ever did. Normally they were just things stuck on the end of my legs to stop me falling over. Now they are my best friends. I have really discovered my feet. Ignore them at your peril!

San Pedro Church at sunrise

Early morning mists on the horizon as the moon sets.

We set off this morning at 0615. It was a cool morning, bright and clear. Only a few other pilgrims disturbed the silence with the click clack of their walking poles on the cobbles of the streets. Today was much cooler and we made good progress out through the fields to the north of Viana making the most of the beautiful morning.

We arrived at the border between the Navarra region which we first entered on day two crossing the Pyrenees from France and the La Rioja region that would take us through to the city of Burgos. Just across the border is a small house that is well known on the Camino. For here there once lived Felisa a legendary gatekeeper of the Camino whose niece also called Felisa stamps our pilgrim passport and gives you a very welcome cup of coffee for a donation only. Actually today Felisas mum was in charge of the post. Although she spoke no English she was just lovely. Debbie and I sat there for around 20 minutes soaking up the history before moving on into Logroño.

The border post.

As soon as we entered the city we could see stork nests dotted around the skyline. Their messy nests were perched in the most unusual places.

Storks nesting.

Puente de Piedra: entrance to Logroño city.

I must admit to not being particularly fond of the city. True, we did not see much of it. But what we did see seemed a little tatty. We walked on through and by this time the hard pavements which were a feature of today were playing havoc with both Debbies and my knees. Even with shock absorbing insoles in our boots we both suffered today as most of the walking was on either pavements, roads or hard cinder paths.

Simply follow the arrows.

Santiago Real church in Logroño

Pitstop

Heading north from Logroño we again followed hard tarmac paths out to a large lake called Pantano de La Grajera and stopped at the cafe Cabaña Tio Juarvi for a cup of tea, chocolate croissant and to use the restrooms. That gave our knees a much needed rest.

Only 576  Kms to go. Not according to our guide book but it’s still a long way.

Home for the night.

From there we met an ex marine also called Mark who was having a tough time and accompanied him the remaining 4 Kms into Navarette and our stop for the night in the Casa del Peregrino. We are on bunk beds tonight and guess who got the top bunk again. In the room with us are two young Austrians that we met way back on day one in Orisson, our ex marine Mark, a lovely Irish couple Jimmy and Antoinette that we first met three days ago, Miriam a young Spanish girl that we met on day 8 and a few strangers from France and Spain I think.

Much needed rest after tending to my feet!

As for dog of the day? Well this soft mutt licked my nasty sweaty feet when we stopped at Felisas mums place where I changed my socks for a dry pair so deserves the stardom. It lived afterwards by the way.

Distance walked today: 22.7 Kms

15 June 2014

Day 13: Navarette to Azofra

Distance to go: 610.7 Kms

Church of the Assumption, Navarette.

Church of the Assumption, Navarette.

Church of the Assumption, Navarette.

Yesterday evening Debbie and I went for a wander to find a local supermarket to get some supplies and stumbled across a wedding that was taking place at the local church, the 16th century Church of the Assumption. So we took a sneaky peeky inside and was astonished at what we saw. Not the wedding that is, but the church. You must remember that Navarette has a population of around 1500 people yet right in the middle, occupying the most imposing site it ever could is this church. How did they ever afford it way back when it was built and why was it built here? I can’t find out. But it was certainly awe inspiring.

Ventosa church.

We stayed at the Casa del Peregrino in Navarette and what a night. It was so hot and the beds are up in the roof space. The Spanish World Champion snorer was in residence so it was something of a relief to get up around 05:30 and get on the road shortly after 6am. We wanted to get to the municipal albergue at Azofra. It had a good write up in the guide book and with only 60 people in beds. 2 to a room it sounded like an ideal place to recover and get a decent sleep.

We made good progress today in cooler temperatures and mainly on gravel and cinder farm tracks again past field upon field of grain crops and Rioja vines. We passed the villages of Sotés and Ventosa and climbed up to Poyo de Roldán. This is a hill with local lore attached to it and stands around 610 metres above sea level. Debbie has a new method to relieve the pressure of the backpack on her collarbones. They have received much comment over the past few days. A couple of washing up sponges from the supermarket was all that was needed.

A minor addition for comfort.

Every now and then we passed the quintessential Spanish village perched on its hill with dominant church and surrounded by vines and farmland.

It was a hard day on the feet. My ankles and arches really hurt today as the ground is so hard and unforgiving. Debbies left knee is playing up so it was with some relief we dropped down into the town of Nájera and crossed the bridge over the Rio Nájerilla and found a street cafe for tea and a fritatta. A group of cyclists doing the Camino by bike were cooling off in the river. They were enjoying the cold water.

View from Nájera bridge

Replenished we left Najera and passed the most impressive monastery of Santa Maria de la Real and started to climb away on another cinder farm track for the remaining 5.8 Kms to Azofra. More vines. More crops. Field upon field of them passed. Both Debs and I were hurting a bit now so it was with great relief we arrived at the albergue at 12:30 and checked in. We got our own little room and it’s great.

Santa Maria de la Real monastery.

Azofra Albergue

We showered, washed the clothes and collapsed for an afternoon ziz. Dinner was boiled eggs and a salad all bought at the local supermarket and some chocolate.

Home for the night.

We are both knackered and looking forward to a good nights rest. We hope to make it to Granon, 21.1 Kms away tomorrow.

A Kings feast at the end of a hard day.

Unfortunately there will be no dog of the day photo as we did not see any. That is the first dogless day we have had since we started. We certainly heard them but did not see any.

Distance walked today: 23.2 Kms

16 June 2014

Day 14: Azofra to Redecilla del Camino

First rain since we started.

Distance to go: 587.5 Kms

We woke this morning to a grey and overcast day and much cooler than of late. In fact significantly cooler. We got going around 06:15 in the morning twilight. I still had my shorts on and my shirt but put my hoodie on as well and I needed it. It is great to be out walking at this time of the morning. The air felt thick and heavy but very fresh. We walk along at about 3 Kms an hour which is plenty fast enough to enjoy all the wild flowers and bird song punctuated by the occasional frog croaking in its pond and the cockerels heralding the morning.

The sun cometh.

By around 7:30 it started to drizzle and then a little more so we donned our groovy ponchos for the first time since we started. They are very good apart from the ‘boil in the bag’ effect. If the rain does not soak you from the outside the sweat gets you from the inside!

Wild poppies

As we walked we talked. We miss our friends Keith and Tanya and wondered where they were. We left them in Viana 2 days back.

After about 8 Kms we came across a stranger sight you will not see.  It is a town called Cirueña. A whole town devoid of any people. Houses, apartment blocks and a school were all there, well tended but not a person in sight. It was like one of those Hollywood deadly plague movies. There was even a golf course with no golfers. It was spooky to say the least. The school had an outdoor swimming pool that was clean and full of water.

Ghost town

The place is called an ‘área de descanso’ and is a purpose built new suburb waiting for people. I can’t help but think somebody somewhere needs a good kick up the backside for this multimillion euro goof.

Santo Domingo De Calzada on the horizon.

From there we followed the cinder farm tracks for another 6Kms into the town of Santo Domingo de Calzada. Here we stopped for a fried egg and bacon sandwich and a cup of tea. Simply heavenly. A few essentials were purchased at the “Farmacia”. We wanted to visit the cathedral as it is famous for having two chickens in a coop inside it. It is one of those bizarre stories as to why it is there but I refuse to pay to go into any house of worship on principal so missed it. I always make a voluntary donation but when I see a ticket office to get in to a cathedral well I’m out of there. So here is the story of the chicken in a cathedral.

Our planned stop of Grañon lay 7 Kms away along more cinder farm tracks. We waved at farmers and gave them an Hola! We always got a wave or a nod and sometimes a “Buen Camino”. The people we have met so far along the Camino have been so lovely. The pharmacists, the bakers, the people running the inns and albergues have all been so lovely despite our sweaty faces coming into and out of their lives.

Grañon.

We got to Grañon. Debs looked into the first albergue. It is on the top floor of a church and the mattresses were on the floor. That was not good for me. I would never get up off them with my knees at the moment so we went to a private one and had a look. We did not get in the front door. It looked so unappealing. The glass was cracked. A sign on a piece of wood told us to ring the bell. We did. No one came. That was our sign to move on. It was another 4 Kms to Redecilla del Camino. We left the La Rioja region and entered the Castilla Y Léon region. With my gammy knee and a calf muscle tying itself in knots it was a long 4Kms. We have walked further today than any other day. Not intentionally. My feet are complaining. My calf muscle is slowly unwinding and my knees are saying hello. More Rioja will sort all that out this evening.

I reckon we are on the right path

However we made it and found the albergue. 5 euros each a night for a bunk bed. Its clean and quiet and we know some of the other pilgrims. Our 2 “camino ninjas” are here. They are in fact Koreans but wear sunglasses over handkerchiefs that cover their faces and a hat so we call them our camino ninjas. They love it. We met them days ago but they come into and out of our lives as we walk along the way.

Redecilla del Camino Albergue.

At the end of 2 weeks walking am I still enjoying this? Strangely enough yes. Despite all the aches and pains, the often rudimentary sleeping arrangements, living day to day out of a backpack, the sometimes monotonous fields of vines and barley and the heat I am right where I want to be. Why? The people I have met so far have all enriched my life. Everybody is doing this for all sorts of reasons. I have not found out what my reason is yet. As I write Debbie is talking to 2 young pastors from Hungary. One has terrible shin splints and she is helping her. Her old nursing skills coming in handy. His English is perfect. I am listening as I write. It’s wonderful.

Cat chasing pooch.

Finally my mutt de jour was posing nicely until a cat popped out from a car parked just out of shot to the right. Then the pooch went into orbit and hence the strange pose.

Distance walked today: 26.3 Kms. 

17 June 2014

Day 15: Redecilla Del Camino to Villafranca Montes De Oca

San Pedro church, Castildelgado. 12th century.

Distance to go: 561.2 Kms

After a so so nights sleep due to the accompaniment of the Russian world champion snorer we set off around 06:20. The weather remains cool and clear which is perfect for walking.

Small villages dot the way that owe their very existence to the pilgrims passing through. Most of the buildings look in a poor state of repair and the people tend the soil growing their fruit and vegetables. It does not seem that life has changed much in these villages in a long time. They are devoid of young people. There is nothing for them to do. We passed Viloria de la Rioja and Vilamayor del Rio before entering the larger town of Belorado.

Here was a chance to get some money from a bank and have a cup of tea and a sticky bun for breakfast. We sat in a cafe in the Plaza Mayor. We only saw other pilgrims passing through. Where is everybody?

Santa Maria Church or stork Hilton.

On the way in we passed the Church of Santa Maria from the 16th century which is built up against a limestone cliff. The storks did not mind for they had festooned the bell tower with their messy nests. The bells dont seem to bother them at all.

The way continued west over the Rio Tirón and started to climb. The terrain changed almost instantly. Gone were the fields of grain crops. Back were woodland paths and hedgerows. I much prefer them. They are much more interesting and give you something to look at as you walk along. It was fairly easy going today. More birds and wild flowers and the trees themselves. One tree seemed to be shedding cotton. It was like somebody had sprayed artificial snow everywhere.

A pilgrims rest

We passed the villages of Tosantos, Villambista and Espinosa del Camino. All the same and all centred around their churches.

Reception.  A bit different to most places we have stayed.

Dining room.

Finally we came to Villafranca Montes De Oca. Now this place has an albergue with a difference. Here there is a fine old hotel and the owner himself has walked the Camino. In the spirit of giving something back he decided to build an albergue for pilgrims at the back of his hotel. Its lovely and clean and splendid and here we are staying.

We met up again with Antoinette and Jimmy from Dublin and Damien who we last saw striding off into the distance at Roncesvalles on day 5.

Sad pooch.

My dog of the day looks very sad. He wagged his tail when I stopped and I wanted to take him with me.

Debbie just had to buy this in the local store.

Distance walked today: 25.7Kms

18 June 2014

Day 16: Villafranca Montes De Oca to Agés.

Early morning mists in the valleys.

Sunrise on the Montes De Ocas.

Distance to go: 535.5 Kms

Yesterday afternoon we had the great fortune to meet up with Damian. He is an ex fire chief from Ireland and we last saw him in Roncesvalles. Here he was again in the same albergue as we were. We thought he would be miles ahead of us by now. He was with his two friends, a Spanish lady called Pinar and an Irish lady called Lorraine. They were both real darlings. Pinar had walked the camino before and suggested we all send our backpacks ahead to Agés to avoid lugging them over the climb ahead. So we joined them. She booked us into the San Rafael albergue in Agés and organised our backpacks to be sent there. We had never met this lady before but we trusted her. She was a real treasure.

So we set off straight into a climb on a cool and slightly damp morning. The views from the hilltops was staggering and we saw the sun rise over the peaks to our east. It was misty among the trees. We were glad we had sent our packs ahead. We would give our knees a rest today. 

Morning mist hike.

Up at around 1000 metres above sea level we came across a monument to the Spanish Civil War, the Monumento a los Caídos and paused for a while taking a light breakfast. It was really chilly at this altitude but the sun was doing its very best to drive away the low cloud and mist.

Spanish Civil War monument

6 Kms further on after a gentle descent we arrived in the small hamlet of St Juan de Ortega, passing three lovely donkeys in a field lazing in the morning sun. This place is tiny but has a magnificent Monastery and an equally magnificent cafe close by where the purveyor of hot tea and sticky buns resides. We relieved him of both before setting off for the 4 Kms walk to our stop for the day, Agés.

It is a hard life.

As soon as we entered the village I loved it. It had a well kept and quiet feel about the place. Who should be sitting at the cafe but Damien, Lorraine and Pilar. We sat and had an ice cream. Not 10 feet away a large stone watering trough was being emptied by a local man to clean it. As the water drained we saw it had some goldfish in it which the man rescued before emptying the trough to remove the sediment and algae. We watched and chatted while Pilar translated for us.

Building regs do not apply here.

St Juan de Ortega monastery in the morning sun.

Pilar then organised a wonderful lunch at the local cafe, El Alquinista. Antonio and his wife Poppy prepared bread and his own cheese to start and then cooked an amazing soup followed by a salad, meat and sweet peppers and home made fries, ice cream and coffee. All the ingredients came from their own farm. It was the best meal we have had so far. All for 12 euros a head. I tell you it was fare fit for a king and pilgrims alike. If ever you are this way I recommend a stop at this village of Ages. It is to me what the Camino is all about. So many pilgrims walked straight passed us and they have no idea what they missed. The man that cleaned the trough is going to give us a guided tour of the village tonight and point out the history going back to the year 994. Pilar has been such a gem of a find for us and has such a heart. I will miss her when we part.

Cleaning the watering trough. Pilar, Lorraine, Debbie and Damien give it a good looking at!

Lunch with new friends at a 400 year old cafe.

The owners pooch.

Distance walked today: 17 Kms

19 June 2014

Day 17: Agés to Burgos

The boots of friends

Village bread oven. All bread was baked here once every 2 weeks.

Distance to go: 518.5 Kms

What a wonderful evening we had last night. We had some tapas and wine then at 19:30 we went on a guided tour of the history of the place. Much has been preserved and for an hour and a half we were shown much of it all for a donation only. This stop has been one of our highlights so far and most pilgrims just walk through.

After a really good nights sleep we woke and had an early breakfast back at Antonios cafe and set off for the city of Burgos at 06:40.

Atapuerca

It all started well. We passed the world heritage site of Atapuerca where excavations have revealed human remains over 900,000 years old and climbed up over Matagrande hill at 1050 metres above sea level. The views from there were stunning. We could clearly see our destination in the distance.

The trail behind us.

Matagrande summit with aircraft con trails.

The descent down the other side was gentle. Debs and I took a detour shown in the guide book. We were the only ones to do it. Everybody else stuck to the usual trail. We were rewarded with skylarks singing and a multitude of wild flowers and peace and quiet. We joined the others at the village of Orbaneja and walked the trail around Burgos airport security fence. I am sure the old pilgrims did not have to deal with that.

Journeys end in the distance.

The guide book then states that we should be prepared for the hard slog into the city. What an understatement!  The next 8 Kms was murder underfoot. Although it was through forest trails and paths, much was concrete and was really painful for the feet and knees. The signposting for the main municipal albergue is poor so we asked a local to help us. We were led around the damn place and still could not find where we were supposed to go. So we left him and struck out on our own. We eventually found it. Our friends arrived about 10 minutes before us.

Burgos Cathedral.

Debbie was really tired by now and my feet were about to burst. They were the sorest they have been so far. We checked in and I collapsed onto my bunk. An ibuprofen and paracetamol concoction had me up about an hour and a half later. We had a great early dinner and toured the magnificent Burgos Cathedral. What a stunning place. If ever you are this way take the tour. It was breathtaking to see it from within and this is where El Cid lies with his wife.

We have the infamous Meseta ahead. It is field upon field as far as the eye can see of barley  and wheat, is notoriously hot and dusty, offers no shelter and is sparsely populated. We have to cross it which could take up to 4 days. We have stocked up with extra water and provisions and just need a good nights sleep to get us going. The forecast is for 30C for the next few days. Cant say I am looking forward to it.

Finally pooch of the day came over to me for a scratch whilst Debs was checking out the toilet facilities of a small cafe.

Go on……give me a scratch.

Distance walked today: 22.9 Kms

20 June 2014

Day 18: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

Parque El Parral

Distance to go: 495.6 Kms

After the long 8 Kms dead straight slog into Burgos I picked up a bit of an ankle ‘tweak’ where every now and then an intense pain shot up my right leg from my ankle to my knee. This did not bode well at all. Thankfully the stage today was not supposed to be so much of a slog.

Pilgrim monument

We left the albergue by the cathedral at 06:15 and headed out through the western suburbs. There was nothing much to see. We did pass where El Cids house ‘used to be” and is now a restaurant called Maison El Cid appropriately. The Parque El Parral was quite nice although there did seem to be quite a few people sleeping in the place before we struck out for the village of Tarjados along small roads and paths. There is a lovely pilgrim monument that we passed before breaking out into greener areas. 

The guidebook unfortunately did not mention that the way had been diverted to make way for a major motorway upgrading project and we were diverted the long way around it on gravel construction roads. This added another 2 kilometres to our walk today.

First view of journeys end

After an egg and potato omelette and a cup of tea in Tarjados we walked along the road to Rabé de las Calzados and from there up gravel paths into the Meseta. As soon as we left the hard tarmac roads my knee felt better. A gravel track climbed for around 5 Kms up to a height of 950 metres above sea level before descending down the Cuestra Matamulas, ‘mule killer slope’. It was not that bad compared to some slopes we have had to negotiate.

Arriving at the albergue I just sat on the road outside as it was still closed until noon. It is amazing how the temperature is so much more bearable in the shade and with the backpack on the ground instead of on your back.

We checked into the albergue and shared a bunk room with Jimmy and Antoinette again, a Norwegian, a Dane, two young girls from Minnesota and 2 young girls from the south of Poland. Both sets of girls had just started walking from Burgos and were still fresh after their days walk. The old mules were a little less fresh shall we say.

Antoinette and Debbie in the local watering hole.

Once we had unpacked and showered a little siesta was required to let the body start to cool down and repair the tired tendons and muscles. By mid afternoon Jimmy and Antoinette and we two paid a visit to the local watering hole to remove the dust of the trail from our throats. Then the rain started and did it start. It lashed down.

It is not all sunshine!

The thunder and lightning continued all night so we shall see what the day brings tomorrow. Hopefully the trail will dry out some. Fingers crossed.

The complete lack of any animals of the canine persuasion means again there is no mutt de jour.

Distance walked today: 23 Kms

21 June 2014

Day 19: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

The sun rises behind us

Distance to go: 472.6 Kms

The thunder and lightning flashed and crashed on to 4am. I slept through most of it but the early morning air was thick and heavy. It was fresh but the moisture was all around. So at 06:15 we left the albergue and started to climb gently up onto the Meseta once more. It was humid and we were soon hot and sweaty even though the gradients were not much to talk about.

Santa Brigida

After 11 Kms we dropped down into the small town of Hontanas passing a small structure housing the statue of Santa Brigida.

Hontanas

Here we took our first cup of tea of the day and a piece of cake. Even though the terrain was not that difficult today my right leg was niggling away and I had to nurse it a little. The fact that we had to walk through one stretch of track that was sticky and muddy did not help. Our boots got caked with mud adding another kilo to each foot. That was not pleasant walking at all.

Hontanas to San Anton

Convento de San Antón

The walk from Hontanas was so much better. The track snaked its way along the valley floor just off the road as was much kinder underfoot. The large expansive fields of wheat and barley gave way to trees and hedgerows and poppies and many species of birds where the Meseta has skylarks and thats about it. Along this part of the trail we passed the long abandoned village of San Miguel until we came upon the most impressive ruins of the Convento de San Antón built in the 14th century. Here there is an albergue and we stopped to change socks and have a drink of water. The impressive Arco de San Antón spans the road and we passed under it.

Iglesia Santa Maria

From here the track follows the road all the way to Castrojeriz. This town is laid out in one long line at the foot of a hill upon which sits the ruins of an old castle. On entering the town the Church of Santa Maria dominates. It is magnificent. The pigeons seemed to love it too.

9th century castle in ruins

The walk through the town is uninteresting. The town seems to be another forgotten place along the Camino.

Home for the night. Albergue San Juan.

We arrived too early for our albergue was still closed. We met our friends Jimmy and Antoinette and the young American girls that we shared our room with last night in a bar/restaurant called El Lagar where the patron was most welcoming. There we spent the next 3 hours catching up on emails with the free wifi and letting our legs and feet recover.

Dog of the day. Far too busy to pose.

Our albergue this evening is run by a very colourful character called Resti. He is very much larger than life and is a wonderful host.

Distance walked today: 22 Kms

22 June 2014

Day 20: Castrojeriz to Frómista

The road leads west……again

Distance to go: 450.6 Kms

Last night we were all awoken by fireworks going off. I am still not sure what the reason was but some of the bangs were really loud. This was around midnight. Knowing we would all be awake, our host Resti came in and said “come come, enjoy pelegrinos (pilgrims). Some did. I stayed put in my comfy bed.

At 0610 he came into the dormitory and switched the lights on. We were not allowed to get up before then. A house rule to make sure the really early birds that can rise as early as 4am and disturb everyone else dont do it this morning. Wonderful.

We had a simple breakfast and he gave us a Tau badge each to wear to protect us from harm, hugged each and very one of us and sent us on our way with a “Buen Camino”. I liked him. I liked him a lot and despite the old buildings and its run down appearance I would stay there again anytime. Resti really set me up for today. We needed it.

I will leave the caption to you.

I saw the tips of a pair of ears over a wall so held my camera over it to see who was on the other side. I am glad I did.

Pilgrims rest?

Roman causeway.

We passed the last pilgrims rest in the village and walked over an old roman causeway and bridge none the worse for wear after 2000 years. Just the river has changed its course to the north since then leaving it high and dry. 

I just know this will not be pleasant.

The view from the top

Then we went straight into a 12% climb for just over a kilometre. That got the heart pumping I can tell you. But the view from the top was worth all the huffing and puffing. The sun was up and the air was crisp and clear. It was a sight to stand and stare at for a while until the heart got itself under control again.

The descent on the other side was an 18% drop for 350 metres and that got the knees saying hello. That was the tough bit of the day over with.

Another Pilgrims rest.

Puente Itero

The walk to the next village was around 11 Kms. We passed the Ermita de San Nicholas and the beautiful Puente de Itero and entered the village of Itero de la Vega. Here we enjoyed a very well earned cup of tea.

The walk to the next village was 8 kms and that was a struggle as it was getting hot now and Debbie was approaching the infamous 20 Kms mark where she turns from a nice lady to a dragon that mutters at you. We had another cup of tea and a fritatta. This is the typical Spanish egg and potato omelette. Then we set off the remaining 7 kilometres to Frómista. 

Just needs gates.

The guide book says “we now have a delightful shaded canal side walk”. Utter tosh. We boiled and baked. Yes there was the odd tree. I expected a lot more. We walked along the Canal de Castilla and passed the impressive but knackered locks and entered the town of Frómista and found the albergue for a bed for the night.

View from my bunk

My feet are killing me. This was a long and hottish day. Debbie is returning to the civilised person I married. Whats more we share a room with one of the vikings and two Spaniards, Jesus and Angel. Yes really. We are well protected tonight.

Pilgrim SOS station. The man seated in the black T shirt is a true saint.

This man ran a pilgrim pit stop funded by his own time and money. Incredible. My dog of the day are dogs of the day. Two sisters belonging to this man that set up a pilgrim SOS stop in the hottest part of the walk as he has done for the past 5 years.

Twin one.

Twin two needs better manners.

We will end the evening in the company of our new friends Jimmy and Antoinette as they go home tomorrow. They will return in September to finish off their camino.

Distance walked today: 27 Kms

23 June 2014

Day 21: Frómista to Carrión de Los Condes

Another sunrise on the Way of St James.

Distance to go: 423.6 Kms

Debbie, Jimmy and Anders the Viking before dinner.

We had a really nice dinner last night in a local hostelry. There were seven of us around the table including ourselves, Anders the Viking and Antoinette and Jimmy. We shared wine, stories and at the end we said farewell to the Irish contingent who would be travelling home tomorrow.

We will miss their cheery faces and unending kind words and deeds.

I did not sleep well last night. Nor did Debbie. Unfortunately Jesus had a cold and snored heavily all night long. No amount of ramming my earplugs into my aural orifices helped. Once I had tuned into the buzz saw lying in a top bunk I was scuppered.

We rose at 05:30, dressed and packed our bedding into our backpacks, the normal morning routine and shared a breakfast with the other pilgrims before setting out for the 22 Kms walk to Carrión De Los Condes. It sounds a bit like carrion of the condor. Maybe its dead pilgrims! I am sure it does not mean that.

Población Puente.

The first 4 kms is boring gravel track leading west alongside the road. Then at Población de Campos there is a choice to continue alongside the road for another 9.7 Kms or take another route that runs alongside the Rio Ucieza. I was amazed at how many took the dead straight road option. Granted it is 1 Km shorter but they missed a very nice and shaded riverside walk.

Pilgrims rest. There are many of them along the Way.

After 4.1Kms at Villovieco, a cafe by an old bridge served hot tea and we could not resist. This is the land of coffee so finding good tea is boon to a weary pilgrim or two.

Church of the Virgin of the River.

Not the most pleasant walking we have done.

From here the walk alongside the river is lovely. Frogs croaked their morning calls, cuckoos sang their songs. We took a rest at the church of the Virgin of the River, changed our socks and headed back out onto the tarmac for the 7.7 Kms walk to our final destination for today, Carrión de Los Condes. This was boring and seemed to go on for ever. The gravel track by the road was straight for 5.6 Kms and with slight hills meaning you only got a glimpse of the town as you came over the last rise. Km signs beside the road counted down the distance to go. I hated them. They went past so slowly.

Home at last.

Three storks on top of our albergue. This is a common sight around here.

We arrived at our albergue, Spiritu Santo, a convent. We chose it only because it had fewer beds per room than the municipal albergue as per the guide book. When we arrived we were greeted by the nuns that run the place. They were so welcoming. The place resembles an old hospital but did we land on our feet or what. We have single beds, not bunk beds for €5 each.

It’s a long hike tomorrow of 27 Kms. Well over our comfort zone of 20 to 25 Kms but we have little choice as the villages are few and far between so we have organised to send our bags ahead and we will walk with small packs to try and keep ourselves in reasonably good shape.

The two young American girls are here. They are the only ones we recognise from our original team. Doctor Dexter has attended to one of them who had a nasty big toe blister.

We are hoping for a much better sleep tonight. We shall see.

Speedy pooch.

The dog of the day was a feisty wee thing. I had to catch him on the move as he refused to stay put for me.

Distance walked today: 21 Kms

24 June 2014

Day 22: Carrion De Los Condes to Terradillos De Los Templarios

Tough day today.

Distance to go: 402.6 Kms

After a decent nights sleep at the Espiritu Santo convent we left at around 06:20 for what we knew was going to be a long day. We left the town and immediately started walking for 5 Kms on a country road which is never good on the feet first thing. A blister on my right heel started to cause me a few problems after the first few kilometres. 

Rain clouds gather

Then we picked up the Via Aquitana. This is an old Roman road still intact today that linked Burgos with Astorga. It ran dead straight for 11.5 Kms. It was soul destroying. On and off rain did not help. Once we had talked about the marvels of the road itself and that fact that Emperor Augustus rode along it and we were following, 4 Kms had passed. The remaining 7 were tedious. Nothing to see except fields of wheat. Little wildlife or flowers to gaze upon. Nothing.

At last, the end of the Roman road.

The small village of Caldadilla De La Cueza appeared as we walked over the last rise in the road. It was a sight for sore eyes. What’s more it had a cafe. We entered. It was full of other pilgrims moaning about sore feet and legs and the tedium of the previous 3 hours of walking.

We had a hot cup of tea and a big eggie and melted cheese bocadilla. This is like a big baguette sandwich. We left 30 minutes later rejuvenated.

The Senda.

The next 5 Kms was on “senda”. These are gravel tracks for pilgrims that run alongside busy roads and motorways. It was quite pleasant actually as there were trees and shrubs to keep you interested as you walked. 

We entered the small hamlet of Ledigos. It is another one horse town bereft of its equine connection. We moved on to our final destination, Terradillos De Los Templarios. This was a former stronghold of the Knights Templar.

Shared dinner.

Our Albergue, appropriately named after the Orders last Grand Master, Jacques De Molay is just lovely. It is the original albergue. A new and purpose built one lies at the village entrance but we preferred the character of the old one. We were not disappointed. Debbie and I have a room to ourselves and we have a proper bed again, not a bunk bed.

The albergue is full. All 49 places are occupied and we shared a dinner cooked by the owners. It has been a hard, sore and damp day.  But at the end of it, after a hot shower and dinner with familiar faces we live on to walk another day. Albeit with a blister on each heel now to contend with. One thing you learn on the Camino is that there is always somebody who knows everything about blister treatment. I will need them.

We are now half way to Santiago.

Distance walked today: 28 Kms

25 June 2014

Day 23: Terradillos De Los Templarios to Sahagún

A cool and misty start.

Distance to go: 374.6 Kms

The alarm clock went off at 0545. I had a good sleep but as soon as I put my feet on the floor all was not well. I could not put any weight on my heels. It was too painful to stand. I have no idea what had happened. I had a blister on each heel which we had lanced and dressed but this felt like bruising of some sort. After three weeks of relatively trouble free walking this was a bit of a shock. Had we done too much yesterday on the hard surface of the Roman road? Had I a piece of gravel in my boots when walking yesterday that had caused bruising? I have no idea. Anyway, I had sorbothane insoles in my boots. I was at a loss to find a reason. So we decided that we would only walk to Sahagún today and take stock once we were there. It was 13 Kms away and we would stop at the two villages en route.

Misty morning

We set off into a cool and misty morning. My heels were really sore and I initially struggled to walk properly. An ibuprofen and paracetamol concoction helped but this was not the way to continue.

After 3 Kms we stopped at a really nice cafe at the Moratinos hostel where for the very first time we had a mug of hot tea. The proprietor had a great menu and catered for non coffee drinkers. 20 minutes later the combination of narcotics and tea kicked in and I was able to continue to the next village of San Nicholas del Real Camino, a further 3 Kms way. The sun was up and burning the mist away.

Mud and straw houses still exist here. I am told it is great insulation.

We stopped for another cup of tea and a muffin. By now my feet felt better but I was not kidding myself.

The Senda is quite pretty around here.

We set off again for Sahagún 7 Kms away, crossing into the Province of Léon finally leaving the Province of Burgos. The track followed the main road into the town and the walk was nothing special. On the way however Debbie caught her foot on a large stone and jarred her knee and that is now adding to our woes.

Our bed in the church attic.

We arrived before the albergue had opened so sat in a cafe and enjoyed another cup of tea and a sandwich by which time we were able to enter our accommodation for the night. 

We are on the top floor of a large church. Below us is the tourist information office and a small meeting hall for functions. We are in bunk beds but having arrived early we both got a bottom bunk. Bliss for aching feet. No ladders to climb! €5 a bunk bed. It is clean and tidy and has all the facilities we need for cooking and washing and such like. It is also very handy having the tourist office downstairs.

We now have a decision to make. We could stay here and let knees and feet recover and then continue walking. That would put us behind our original schedule. Or we could take the bus or train to Léon and miss about 30 Kms and take a days rest and pick up again on Saturday morning to be back on our original schedule. I have some soul searching to do. Our intention was to walk the Camino and not take any transport. By taking public transport it feels a little like cheating. If a pilgrim of old was offered a ride on a donkey cart would he turn it down? Part of me says stay here and walk on when ready. That could mean we may not make Santiago before we need to head home. Or go ahead a day by train and recover in Léon and then move on. We are only half way after all.

Monastario de La Peregrina

Whilst we were debating our options we visited the Monestario de la Peregrina. What an outstanding building this is. The link can show you more but is translated from Spanish so the grammar is a little ‘off’ in places. €3 entrance is charged and pilgrims get their pilgrim credential stamped and a beautiful certificate announcing their visit to the geographical centre of the Camino Frances. The building is subject to extensive and sympathetic renovation and is well worth a visit.

My dog of the day snarled at me when I approached with my camera. I beat a hasty retreat and so I refuse to make it famous.

Distance walked today: 15 Kms

26 June 2014

Day 24: Sahagún to León

Was this the house that Jack built?

Distance to go: 357 Kms.

I think we both found Sahagún a little disappointing after the hype in the guidebook. It was a bit shabby. There were some notable buildings including this one above which is right outside the municipal Albergue. Beside the albergue entrance door is this strange fellow standing beside a statue of a pilgrim.

We both had a good nights sleep ( Debs and I, not the statue that is) and although all the bunks are in the attic of the church they are subdivided up. It’s best to get a bunk as far away from the kitchen as possible though.

When we woke it was clear that the decision to move on to León was the correct one. So we went to the station and caught the train for the 35 minute ride. Only €5 each. My feet were not good and needed rest. We walked from the station about 25 minutes to the cathedral. We passed a really good outdoors shop that had some decent looking sandals in the window. We would return later when it opened for a closer look. 

Once you first set eyes on the Cathedral you can’t help but go wow! It is not as big as Burgos Cathedral but it is much more slender looking and the amount of stained glass is outstanding. 

1 of 125 stained glass windows.

The apartment I had booked on booking.com was not 3 minutes walk away but was not ready until 13:00. So we sat at the Hostel Albany Cafe close by and had a good breakfast. Who should walk by but Damien, the Dublin Fire Chief. He joined us for a time then went to book a hotel. He was going to stay for 2 nights as well to rest his back. We then visited the tourist information office opposite the cathedral. Very helpful. They pointed us in the direction of the central Post Office. We wanted to post our beautiful certificates we got yesterday back home. We needed to pass the outdoor shop to get there. So, to kill two birds with one stone we popped into the store to look at the sandals. The assistant approached. I asked if he spoke English. “Yes” he said.”I lived in London for two years”. I felt like an idiot again. I explained my problem. He looked at my feet. “Ah” he said.”You have Meseta foot”. “Pray tell me more my good man”. It is not uncommon for the hard tracks of the Meseta and Tierra de Campos to play merry hell with feet and knees. Bruised heels is very common. You can tell who has crossed the Meseta. They do the Pilgrim shuffle. The wincing straight legged walk is a dead give away. A quick look at the tattered toes covered in tape, plasters and tissue confirms the observation. Now I know why so many pilgrims we knew bypassed the Meseta on the bus! Not us. We are paying now. The sandals were sent from heaven. They are fantastic. No pain at all walking in them. Debbie got some too and we bounced off to the post office to send our certificates home. The man behind the counter spoke good English. When we had concluded our business he asked how it was crossing the Meseta. I was seriously wondering whether the word ‘idiot’ was stamped on my forehead. Maybe my sandals gave the game away.

The alter

We took a tour of the cathedral. It was magnificent. As mentioned before the stained glass is breathtaking and is in my view what sets this cathedral apart from many others I have visited. Inside, the fields of colour spilling onto the walls and floor is magical. We got our credential stamped. By now it was time to head back to the Hostel Albany for lunch. That was also good. Damien walked by again. Impeccable timing. It was time to go and check into our apartment. We were delighted with it. For €50 a night we have a place with a double bed, kitchenette and separate shower and toilet. There are washing machines that are free to use in a separate laundry. We are staying at the Emilio Feo Gotico apartments. They are clean and tidy and so well located that I would recommend them if you want to stay here.

León Cathedral

Our León nest.

There is a fiesta going on in honour of Saints Peter and Paul. The place is buzzing. Stages have been erected around the central city upon which bands are playing as well as other entertainment.

As for my feet? Well the very nice Rioja we are enjoying after a very tasty pasta dinner cooked by Debbie are distracting me from them at this moment in time whilst we listen to the next band on stage outside the cathedral through our open windows. I shall be leaving my boots in the cupboard for as long as I possibly can.

27 June 2014

Day 25: León. Rest Day.

León Cathedral West side.

Distance to go: 318 Kms

I am now convinced the rest day was essential. Even though we did not set the alarm clock we both woke around 05:45, had a brief chat and rolled over and went back to sleep. We eventually rose at some naughty hour, took a shower and then went out and about to explore.

San Isadora.

We tried to get Debbie some more socks of the kind she got back in Viana on day 11. To no avail. We tried a few shops but no luck. They are made of bamboo fibres and are truly excellent.

We will try again further down the road. So we did what was the only option left to us. We had coffee. Very civilised. Who should mosey on by but Damien. I do like his sense of humour. We had purchased some essentials at the local ‘farmacia’. Analgesics. If ever I decide to open a shop it will be a foot remedy and painkiller shop on the Camino. The pharmacist took a look at one of my blisters and said iodine. I put it on. I went into orbit. I landed and felt better. In fact as I type just having had a wonderful dinner in the cathedral plaza my feet feel great once more.

Within a few hours of putting on the iodine the pain has gone, the swelling has reduced and I think we are ready to continue. Tomorrow will be the test.

Worth a photo dont you think.

If ever anybody reading this has the slightest notion about following the path I cannot stress enough how important this rest day has been both physically and mentally. The walk is not what this is all about. There is more. Much more. Sure if you put your head down and march you can make it in around 25 days. There are some we have met who are doing just that. They have seen and experienced nothing. We have met some fabulous people here in León. The pharmacist who assisted us today told us where to go for tapas. What to try. What the local flavours were. I have mentioned in the past that the people we have met in the shops have all been tremendous. They see pilgrims every day. Of course we bring money. But they have all gone above and beyond.

The view from our dinner table.

I have really enjoyed León. More so than Burgos. I like its hidden secrets in the medieval streets. I like its cleanliness and Joie de vivre. I adore the cathedral. But whats more are the folk that populate the streets. No question in my deplorable Spanish was left unanswered. Each proffer of the map was answered with directions as I stood in my unironed drip dry clothing looking like Worzel Gummidge. (google it if you dont know)

Alas it is time to move on. The time is right to do so. We worried when the time came that we would baulk and stay ‘just another day’. But it feels right to get on the path again. I really hope my feet are ok for we desperately want to complete this. We need to. We have become part of the group moving along the path as one. The faces come in and out of our daily lives. All wish us Buen Camino. We assist each other to the ultimate goal of standing in the cathedral in Santiago. Onwards!

28 June 2014

Day 26: León to Vilar de Mazarife

Monastery San Marcos. Now a luxury hotel.

Distance to go: 317.5 Kms

The alarm clock went off at 05:45 and we were out the door and on our way again at 06:30. The first part of the walk was through the streets of the suburbs of León which was less than inspiring. Until we came across this most beautiful building in the Plaza San Marcos. Originally a more modest pilgrim hospital built in 12th century it was to become the headquarters of the Knights of the Order of Santiago. Their job was to protect pilgrims on the way. It is now a luxury Palador hotel.

Outside the main entrance is a wonderful bronze statue of a pilgrim sitting on the base of a stone cross resting his feet. I loved it.

A pilgrim and a bronze.

From here the path lead out across Puente Rio Bernesga built in the 16th century. We wound our way through some pretty dull streets of suburbia that were even less inspiring. If anything they spurred you on to get through it all. We passed some small bodegas that looked like hobbit houses. Here, wine was stored in years gone by to keep it cool underground. 

Hobbit bodegas.

Then we had to traipse through an industrial complex before finally arriving at the town of La Virgen del Camino and the first cafe that was open since we left 8 kms ago. It was not pretty or chic. But it had great tea and a huge sticky bun and that was good enough for us. We met Artur once more. He was a lovely Costa Rican man we met 2 weeks ago then parted company about 8 days ago. Once again people come into and out of our lives. My feet were playing up already so I changed from my boots to my sandals. Bliss!

Just after the cafe stop the path splits and there is an option to take the ‘senda’ beside the road and is 2 kms shorter or go cross country. We chose the latter. Artur chose the former so we parted company again. The 2 paths converge in 2 days time. We should meet him again.

We passed the tiny village of Fresno del Camino. The wind started to whistle. Shifty eyes followed us through. A scene from a spaghetti western.

Not the uniform I am used to wearing.

We walked on to the even tinier town of Oncina. It had a nice feel to it. Even nicer when we spotted this man and his veritable oasis set up at the roadside. He was such a lovely man. His stall had everything a pilgrim could need. Fruit, biscuits, drinks both hot and cold, chocolate and much more. You paid by donation. You gave only what you could afford. Every day he is there he told me with his friend and their dog. This is what I really love about this Camino. You just don’t know who or what is around the next bend. We had a hot drink, bought some fruit and cereal bars and walked on.

Chozas de Abajo high street.

We climbed to 900 metres above sea level onto moorland. Now the wind was full on our faces and was brisk and gusty at around 20 knots. This made the going somewhat tougher but it did keep us cool. After 5.5 kms we arrived in Chozas de Abajo. Time for more tea and use of their toilets. Other than in the bar/cafe we saw nobody. How do these places survive? Beats me.

We made it for another night.

The last 4.6 Kms to our stop for the night was along a flat country road. Dark grey clouds were building right ahead. The wind blew stronger. Being a bit of a meteorologist I turned to Debbie and stated that it was going to piss down. Soon. We were not 200 metres from the village when it started to sprinkle celestially as predicted. By the time we got into our albergue it was full on. Our timing was impeccable.

Albergue Tio Pepe.

We are staying in the Tio Pepe albergue in Villar de Mazarife. Debs and I are in a room of 4 bunk beds. We have the bottom ones and at this time, the top two are unoccupied. We had a great bowl of soup and a Spanish tortilla each for lunch. This is a nice place to stay. There are 2 other much bigger albergues in the village. We have snoozed, shopped for some supplies and demolished an ice cream each. The rain has stopped. The sun is out and the “bloody bloody wind” blows.  Around here they call the wind Mariah……….

Finally, after some absence, is mutt de jour. Belonging to the friend of the lovely man with the oasis in Oncina. The friend runs a dog rescue centre.

Rescued pooch.

Distance walked today: 22.2 Kms

29 June 2014

Day 27: Vilar de Mazarife to Villares de Órbigo

The Hollies ……..“The road is long with many a winding turn”. Except this one.

Distance to go: 295.3 Kms

We had another great nights sleep at Albergue Tio Pepe. We decided last night that we would not stay in any of the remaining big towns and so we would walk around 17 Kms today and then around 20 Kms a day from now on. This means we will only stay in the smaller towns and villages. Something we both prefer for peace and quiet and a chance to sample the life in these places.

So we had a lie in. The alarm went off at 06:15 and we got up, packed our bags and took a small breakfast in the albergue before hitting the road.

The first stretch of road was just that. A stretch of road. 6 Kms long and dead straight. It was a chilly morning but the wind was behind us. Thats good as the backpack keeps your back and kidneys warm whilst you keep cool walking. Away in the distance the mountains over which we must pass loom closer. There is snow on some of the peaks. We will need to re evaluate our clothing and having sent our coats home in Puenta La Reina on day 8, kick ourselves for doing so. Mind you it was around 30C then! I had my boots on today. I was hoping the blisters on my heels would not be aggravated by them. I found out that my sorbothane insoles had been worn down by my bulk and that there was a lip behind my heel that was rubbing the blister. Some deft scissor work saw to the lip and voila! My feet were so much better. Not 100% but a vast improvement on the morning we left Terradillos when I was in real pain.

First cup of tea is always the best.

Town planner to be shot at dawn.

We tramped on. Then on. Then on some more and arrived at the village of Villivante and stopped at the first cafe we came across at the entrance to the town. We had tea and orange cake and gave our feet a rest. We had covered 9.6 Kms at this point without a rest stop. It was most welcome. We trudged on. In the middle of Villivante a town planner who really needs his backside kicking with a very large boot had decided the best place to build his monstrosity of a water tower was in the middle of the high street. What an eye sore. We passed it and headed out on the 4.5 Km walk to the town of Hospital de Órbigo.

Town planner to be rewarded with lots of Vino Tinto.

Now the town planner for this place needs commending, given a nice glass of vino tinto and told to relax and chill. For his water tower, placed on the edge of his town was something to behold. He is clearly worlds apart from the eejit in the previous town.

Magnificent Puente de Órbigo

We crossed the magnificent 13th century Puente de Órbiga. A more splendid looking bridge would be hard to find. The river it spanned has long ago dwindled for on the former bed is a jousting park and on the other side, some buildings. Nonetheless this did nothing to detract from the magnificence of the structure.

We stopped on a bench and had a small snack before striking out the remaining 3 Kms to our stop for the day at the albergue Villares in Villares de Órbigo. On entering the town you immediately feel that this is a well kept place. It is clean and tidy. New houses are being constructed. Then you spot the albergue by its wonderful mural painted on its end wall. Something dear to every pilgrims heart. Washing on a line.

Our albergue for the night.

Bed for the night.

The verandah.

A sunny courtyard.

The hospitalero Pablo and his wife greeted us on arrival and on entering the courtyard you immediately feel at home. We were given a clean cotton sheet and pillow case and shown to our beds. He told us to settle in, take a shower and a rest before we checked in. “There is plenty of time for that” he says to us. The place is spotless. Everywhere. I can quite honestly say that for €7 each this is the cleanest and homeliest albergue we have stayed in so far. The courtyard is a haven of peace. Potted flowers add colour. Camino memorabilia add interest. He has a few souvenirs that are tasteful for sale. A big squashy sofa on the upper verandah invites weary backsides. The shower is hot and powerful. The bunk beds are big with Ikea pillows and good sized mattresses. As I write Pablo and his wife Belén are preparing the evening meal. Dinner and breakfast are paid for by donations only.

Our host Pablo and a cat that arrived last night. He has found a new friend.

Ingram and Whitney in the courtyard.

We are sharing the place with a delightful American mother and her daughter, Ingram and Whitney, whom we have met before. There is a Swiss lady, Erna walking the camino with her dog Corby. 

Erna and Corby.

There are 2 English men, 2 Spaniards and a young Korean with us. What impresses me most is Pablo. He speaks excellent English. He has walked the camino himself. He knows what pilgrims like. His albergue reflects that. Opposite is the bar Pasis which although a little rough and ready is welcoming and serves up tea and food.

Relaxing in the sun.

I feel right at home here.

Tomorrow we expect to go on another 20 Kms and maybe stop in Astorga to buy a thermal vest for the mountain passage.

Distance walked today: 17.1 Kms

30 June 2014

Day 28: Villares de Órbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo

Another road to another bed.

Distance to go: 278.2 Kms

We woke at 6am for breakfast was at 6:30. We had a hot drink and some toast, jam and orange juice and set off for our next stop 19.4 Kms away. We bid farewell to our hosts and left.

Santibanez de Valdeiglesia in the valley.

The first part of the journey was delightful. The path kept us away from the main road, the N-120 that runs east/west to Santiago and gave us some peace and quiet. The path was along grass tracks and farm roads. Some were easy underfoot. Much was rough pebbles and gave the ankles some work to do. But it was rural as rural can be and wonderful. Blue skies and cool temperatures were ideal for walking. The wind of late had gone.

We dropped down into the town of Santibanez de Valdeiglesia. Another place where we saw not a soul.

Sun’s up.

Pilgrims can be an inventive bunch.

Then for the next 8 Kms we struck upwards over a small plateau on rough and pebbly tracks through open countryside. Old oaks passed by. Sunflower fields were just starting to show a hint of yellow among the green foliage. The sun was up. The temperatures were slowly rising.

We caught our first glimpse of the city of Astorga ahead and below us. The mountains now were closer and were getting bigger on the horizon.

Colour co-ordination winners- Camino 2014.

At the Cruceiro de Santo Toribio a German cyclist asked to have his photo taken on his camera. I obliged and in return he took our photo for us. The view from here was amazing looking down into the flat valley in which Astorga lies.

Another pilgrims rest.

We had not stopped since setting off this morning. We needed tea. The first stop was down in the valley below which tweaked the knee ligaments on the steep descent. A well meaning local authority had recently paved the descending path which made life easier for us Peregrinos.

This house was for sale for €50,000. A snip.

The town of San Justo de la Vega is just an overspill of Astorga. We found a cafe on the footpath. It was the sort of place we would not visit in a month of Sundays back home but here it was paradise. A large mug of hot tea and a fritatta later we hit the road again. It was a bit of road and a bit of gravel track from here into the city.

Roman footbridge

One surprise was a delightful little Roman footbridge over a stream that remained intact and over which we passed. Followed shortly by a modern bridge over the railway that resembled a roller coaster in a fairground. However the well meaning designer had considered us tired Peregrinos as the gradients were very small. Hence the design I reckon.

Modern equivalent

The plate under reads Quo Vadis.

We entered the city of Astorga through the Puerta Sol up some fairly steep inclines and paused to take a photo of a bronze pilgrim entitled Quo Vadis. Where are you going Pilgrim? 

Astorga Cathedral.

We paused briefly at a sport shop in the city to buy a waterproof shell jacket for ourselves to go over the mountains which was a little galling having sent our coats home on day 8 after a week of scorching weather. We thought we would not need them. Mistake! The cathedral is another beautiful building but was closed when we passed.

The path then leads out through a rather uninteresting course along a road and a concrete pavement which irritated my knees and hips a little before crossing the autopista. Then we walked on a purpose made gravel track to get us off the road and this gave some relief to the joints and weary feet.

We arrived at our first choice accommodation, the Casa Flor, at 13:00. It was closed and in darkness. We went to the albergue Las Águedas. We were given a warm welcome by a lady. I told her she spoke impeccable English. She said she had lived in England for 6 years married to a local man but got divorced and returned to Spain. I asked her where she lived. She said Westbury, not 4 miles from where we live now. This was before we told her that we came from Trowbridge. I was astounded. So we talked about the local area, the nice cafes, the city of Bath and so on. Here we are in rural Spain nattering about home.

Our albergue

We are in a room of 22 beds. We are with the American mum and daughter from last night as well as the same 2 english brothers, Bill and Bob. Bill is a large man who snored for gold in the snoring Olympics. We were so disappointed when they turned up. There will be little sleep tonight. Oh well. More Vino Tinto should help.

Tomorrow we head for the mountains and start the initial climb all being well.

The bunk room

Our courtyard.

Distance walked today: 19.4 Kms

1 July 2014

Day 29: Murias de Rechivaldo to Foncebadón.

Dawn on mountain day.

Distance to go: 258.8 Kms

Both Debbies and my ear plugs worked so well last night that neither of us heard the alarm go off on my mobile phone at 6am this morning. Whitney who was with her mother and us last night did and roused us both. So we got ourselves ready and by 06:40 we were on the road. There was a chilly wind and the air felt damp. A few spots of light rain fell. Ahead the mountains got closer. They were shrouded in mist and the sun rising behind us created rainbows.

Rainbows in the low cloud.

The gradients for the first part of the day were very gradual and now and then we stopped to look back to see where we had come from. Astorga lay away in the distance.

Astorga Cathedral away behind us now.

First stop of the day was for breakfast after we had walked just over 4 Kms. This was the sleepy village of Santa Catalina de Somoza. First cup of tea of the day and a chocolate croissant helped to get the body up and running properly in El Caminente hotel cafe. The difference that having something first thing in the morning makes cannot be underestimated. Most places dont start serving breakfast until after 7am by which time we want to be on the path. This avoids having to walk in the heat of the afternoon.

Santa Catalina de Somoza

Feeling much better we moved on another 4.9 Kms to the village of El Ganso. Described as a hauntingly crumbling village in the guidebook, it proved to be just that. One entrepreneural local had opened the Cowboy Bar to attract passing custom. It was the only colour we saw in the village. We stopped on a bench to rest our feet, take some water and a snack and moved on.

The cowboy bar.

The path followed a local road. It was rough in places and where it passed between trees was difficult going among the protruding roots.

The guidebook mentions a specimen ‘Pilgrim oak’ which has bench seats beneath where we can rest in its shade. We found the spot. There was no shade. In fact there was no tree.

The specimen oak is specimen firewood now.

We moved on to Rabanal del Camino. There was a steep climb through the village centre with cafes and albergues on both sides vying for business.

Rabanal del Camino

We stopped at the appropriately named La Posada de Gaspar as we were gasping for another cup of tea. This establishment was the last one on the left before leaving town and was very nice. We had a big mug of tea in a nice mug and saucer and a big slice of egg and potato fritatta. 5 out of 5 for this place. We knew we had the mountain climb ahead and a bit of lunch would assist.

Into the mountains.

Not so easy going in places.

It was only 5.8 Kms to our final stop of Foncebadón. We took a photo of our feet leaving Rabanal and stepping onto the mountain path. At first it was easy going. Always climbing but steady. It crossed heathland and moor and then, just when we thought this was not so bad it passed through thick broom bushes and broke up into a loose and rocky path for most of the way to Foncebadón. This required careful footwork lest we twist an ankle.

Magical Vistas.

Debbie actually laughing and joking on the ascent.

Mountain springs that crossed the path turned it to a sticky mush in places. We kept a steady pace that we could breath easily with in the thinning air. We are around 1450 metres above sea level here. The mist had all but burnt off with the sun coming up but a chilly head wind let you know you were in the mountains.

Foncebadón appears.

All of a sudden when the lungs and legs are pumping away Foncebadón pops into view from behind a tree. What a welcome sight it was.

Our home for the night.

We had a cup of tea at the convent cafe and mulled over our options. We decided to stay at the albergue Monte Itago. We are on a mattress each right up in the attic where I hope we will be warmest and quieter. The Hilton it is not but it is bed for the night. Whitney and Ingram turned up 2 hours later. It is now 16:30 and the place is full. I have put a star beside it in my guidebook. I can’t remember why. But here we will stay for the night. 

Pooch of the day guards the entrance to our home, Monte Itago Albergue.

Foncebadón high street.

As for Foncebadón? Well Las vegas it is not. Its sole raison D’etre is to look after pilgrims and tourists on the road that runs through the mountains. We really are in the boondocks here. We just need Julie Andrews to run past singing the hills are alive with the sound of music and the scene is complete.

Oh and the wind. The bloody bloody wind…….Mariah……Mariah has probably blown our socks back to Astorga.

Distance walked today: 21.9 Kms

2 July 2014

Day 30: Foncebadón to Molinaseca.

Another early start.

Distance to go: 236.9 Kms

We had a great dinner last night in the albergue. We had a selection of local sausages and cheeses to start with and then the best paella I have had in many a day from a huge pan with 30 servings in it. The hospitalero, Manuel then sang a local song that was actually quite good. We both had a really good nights sleep. It started raining quite heavily about 5 in the morning for around an hour. 

We had a really good breakfast and set off around 7 for the climb up to La Cruz de Ferro. It was not as cool as I had thought it may be. The path was fairly easy going for the first 2 Kms to the cross. We had both been carrying a small stone with us to add to the huge pile deposited by pilgrims over the many years. I had a piece of marble from a much larger stone kept at my parents front door of their house ever since I can remember. Debbie had a stone from the grave of Somebodies Darling which we visited when in New Zealand and brought back with us.

La Cruz de Ferro

The first glimpse of the cross was quite emotional. I had read about it and what it came to symbolise. Pilgrims were there hugging each other. Some were weeping. Others just stood in complete silence and watched others deposit their stones. I said a small poem taught to me by my mother years ago. 

Our pebble and piece of marble join the millions of others. They are the brown and white ones above the H from the word DEATH on the large  stone in the centre bottom picture.

See the patter O’ the watter, see the baggie minnows scatter, some are thin and some are fatter, thats the patter O’ the watter.

I had my mums bible with me and together Debbie and I left our stones and a set of rosary beads we had brought from Jerusalem. It was quite a moment for everybody around.

Shrouded in mist at these altitudes.

We then set off for Manjarin and then for a cup of tea in Acebo village. The going was slow. It was up then down and up and down on quite rugged paths of loose rocks and stones. It rained on and off but the views up among the clouds was spectacular. We had to use the road on a number of occasions when the actual path had become overgrown with gorse and broom.

Military look out post. Can’t imagine they can see anything.

We passed a military lookout post at the highest point of 1515 metres above sea level or 4,970 feet. The air was thin and made breathing a bit of a challenge. This made for slow going. Just before we got into Acebo there was a nasty steep descent on a very loose and rocky path. It made my knees sore and the cafe at the bottom was most welcome.

A nasty descent. It just went on and on.

Pilgrims rest…..again.

The amazing healing powers of a hot cup of tea and a bun were once more well proven.

Tough going.

From Acebo it was only 3.8 Kms to Riego de Ambros. This was another tiring walk due to the state of the path. These mountain villages are clinging on to their traditional structures and ways of life. The Camino provides income for them to do so and with the increase in pilgrim numbers, more places are being renovated.

Riego de Ambros was a delightful little place. The path from here to our final destination of Molinaseca was at times very rough and rocky and at others a wonderful walk along a valley bottom. However the last bit into Molinaseca itself was horrible and seemed to never end. At least the clouds had started to clear.

Molinaseca ahead.

Molinaseca church

Molinaseca itself was nothing like I thought it would be. It is a delightful and bustling town retaining many of its historical features. The main street is entered by crossing a beautiful medieval stone bridge.

The main street.

Our albergue lies just outside the main town about 300 metres along the road to Ponferrada. It is very clean and tidy. Santa Marina is its name and we are again in the attic as last night but of a different class altogether.

Home for the night.

Not bad….not bad at all.

This was a much tougher day than we expected due to the rough terrain. It was not that strenuous but it was hard going underfoot. The guide book does not really make this clear. However it is over and it is time to relax with a glass of ‘oh be joyful’.

Distance walked today: 20.7 Kms

3 July 2014

Day 31: Molinaseca to Cacabelos

Ponferrada at dawn

Distance to go 216.2 Kms

What a lovely meal we had last night in the albergue followed by a decent ziz. We had lentil soup to start with then a salad then spaghetti bolognaise followed by fruit and a slice of cake. As Debbie is allergic to pineapple and that’s what we had, she was offered a yoghurt instead. This all came with bread, water and of course vino tinto. I have not eaten so much bread as I have on this camino. Once you have walked 25 Kms a day or thereabouts you will eat anything and everything put in front of you. Just bring it to me!

We woke and left after some breakfast at 06:45. Most of today was hard underfoot. A good 90% was on concrete or asphalt which is tough on the feet and knees. 

The first 7.5 Kms is along mostly roads into the city of Ponferrada. In the early hours the surfaces are cool and not so hard to walk on. Once the asphalt heats up it boils your feet in your boots and thats not so nice. We passed the albergue San Nicolas de Flüe. This is a big place with 210 beds but it looked really new and is by donation only. The entrance lobby was quite impressive and in the grounds is a totem pole in memory of another pilgrim cyclist killed on the roads.

Ponferrada albergue.

Ponferrada albergue mural

The centrepiece of the city for me is the Castillo de Los Templarios. This is a magnificent 12th Century Templar castle, recently renovated, occupies the most dominant position as one would expect and opens much later than we could afford to stay and wait. Even walking alongside it you get the feeling of immense power emanating from its fortifications. This is real a ‘dont mess with me’ kind of place. 

Castillo de Los Templarios

We moved on along suburban concrete paths into suburbia itself. We stopped off in the leafy suburb of Compostilla for a comfort break and a cup of tea at the aptly named Compostilla Cafe bar. It gets 3/5 for its tea. Nice cup and saucer but the place itself is a little shabby. Nonetheless, rejuvenated we moved on. The path, sometimes on gravel tracks but mainly roads arrived at the small town of Columbrianos where the Ermita San Blas Y San Roque had an impressive mural on its end wall and guardian storks. We moved on down another road described as minor in the guide book but had much more traffic along it than it should. I reckon the locals have found a short cut. Fields either side of the road containing allotments and crops did their best to alleviate some of the boredom of trudging over 2 Kms in the increasing heat.

Colombrianos.

San Sebastian church in Fuentes Nuevas.

We arrived at Fuentes Nuevas and I liked the place. A cafe at the entrance to the village provided great tea albeit in a glass but the eggy tortilla bocadilla more than made up for the 2/5 tea score it got. Other pilgrims joined us at this little oasis for a rest. We moved on. As we walked down the main street such as it was an elderly gentleman well into his 80s sitting on a bench beckoned us over. He had a bag of cherries and another of walnuts. He gave us some of each and wished us Buen Camino. This made my day. Other pilgrims were given the same special present as they passed him. He spoke no English but I could make out that they came from his garden. A little further down the same road we were passing the church of San Sebastian. I stopped to take a photo and a head appeared showing a stamp for our pilgrim passport. We entered and 2 elderly ladies showed us inside the church. I was amazed. Murals covered the domed ceiling and walls. This place is not even mentioned in the guidebook.The ladies were so lovely. Again they spoke no English. We put a donation in their box and moved on. These unexpected moments are real treasures.

We were buoyed on by Fuentas Nuevas. Our enthusiasm was dampened quickly when we entered Camponaraya. I will not be moving to the place any time soon. It is a noisy and quite shabby town through which we had to pass and as soon as possible. A sign showed that the temperature was now 29C. I was glad to be through it and out onto an earthen track through rolling hills of vineyards. Now that was delightful. The path led down into a valley through a small wood where we paused to listen to the bird song. It was wonderful and cool and fresh.

We arrived at Cacabelos. The town seemed to go on and on. By now my feet were swimming in my boots and needed freeing pronto. Still the streets continued on. Eventually we crossed the Rio Cúa and arrived at our albergue. There are 2 proper beds in chalet style rooms arranged in a semi circle around the church of Capalla de Las Angustia. It is clean and comfortable and the showers are great.

The rooms.

We have showered and now it’s time for a small siesta to let the heat of the day drop before we venture back into town. There are no meals or cooking facilities here so we must avail ourselves of the local establishments. But for €5 a night each this will do nicely.

Our room for tonight.

It has been a tough day of a different type of toughness than yesterday. Different terrain. Different challenges. But for all the moans and groans, the less than stimulating at times suburban trudges I would not be anywhere else. The Camino helps you along. More precisely the people on and along the Camino help you on. Just when you think ‘right thats it. Enough”, a friendly local gives you fruit and nuts, a fellow pilgrim beams at you and says “Hola”, a church inspires you, the scenery inspires you and suddenly the walk is not so bad after all. When you arrive at the albergue for the night and look back it is never ever that bad. In fact it is quite magnificent.

Distance walked today: 23 Kms

4 July 2014

Day 32: Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce

Approaching Villafrance del Bierzo

Distance to go: 193.2 Kms

We had a lovely dinner last night in the cafe Aitor. We were the only 2 when we arrived. The waiter was gracious and the service was impeccable. Debbie said I should ask him whether he wanted to join Seabourn.

We had Vino Tinto and tapas to start. The local red wine is called Bierzo which is new to me. It was wonderful and mellow and reminded me of a not so heavy Rioja. Main course was a seafood paella which was outstanding. Then came creme caramel and more vino tinto. Finally the waiter brought us a nice Muscadet to finish off. I reckoned the bill would come to around €50. It was worth that much. It was €26. I was staggered. We paid, left a tip and returned to our nest for a great nights sleep.

Dinner for 2.

The alarm went off at 05:45. We were on the road by 06:35. It was a slow start. 

We both really enjoyed today and although we took the easiest of the 3 options on offer we both really loved the experience.

First stop was in Villafranca del Bierzo. This is a delightful town. I adored the place. 

Built along the Rio Cúa it oozed charm, antiquity and warmth. We went to the central plaza, Plaza Major and had tea and toast and jam for breakfast. What else.  Invigorated we moved on.

Villafrance del Bierzo

 There were three route choices to choose from. The stupidly hairy mountaineer route, the moderately up and down route or the chicken valley route. The valley route followed the road and did not sound appealing but we took it to nurse a twangy knee of mine. It was heavenly. Although it was along tarmac it followed the river, was shady and was really lovely. We arrived at the tiny hamlet of Pereje. The sound of the river was present all the way.

Pereje

Yet another Pilgrims rest. Pereje.

Tea time again. This was a little hidden gem of a place bypassed by the masses. The cafe/bar stamped our pilgrim passport with a lovely stamp and refreshed we moved on to Trabadelo.

It’s along way either way.

This was supposed to be our original stop but both Debbie and I felt good enough to move on to the next place 3.8 Kms away, La Portela de Valcarce.

The albergue was not appealing at all. More bar than albergue so we continued to Ambas Mestas. By this time we were getting hot and tired. The albergues looked run down and again not appealing.

We moved on again to Vega de Valcarce. It was lovely and we chose Albergue Sarracin. It looked well presented and had a riverside bunk house with 11 bunk beds. We entered the bar area. The woman was arrogant. No hello. No welcome. Nothing. We liked it and thought she would warm so we paid €20 for the two of us. We went into the bunk house and were showed and top and bottom bunk. I asked for two bottom bunks and was told the other beds are all reserved. 2 more people arrived later and asked us if we thought the owner was arrogant. It is a real shame for the place itself is heavenly but the people that run the place seem as though they dont want us here. I would love to recommend this place simply because it is so clean and has a fantastic location. But the owners seem to know it and show no warmth to pilgrims. We will spend no more money here and will eat out in the village instead. There are still 6 empty beds. So much for the others all reserved.

Home for the night.

The garden of our albergue.

There is a fantastic bakery just down the road from us that bakes all of its own cakes and bread. We just had to sample their wares. With Twinings English Breakfast tea. Debbie was in heaven. I enjoyed it too. Tea and a walnut muffin. What’s not to like?

Panaderia. Purveyor of nice things baked.

Report of the dining experience in the village will follow tomorrow.

Distance walked today: 26.4 Kms

5 July 2014

Day 33: Vega de Valcarce to Alto do Poio

The only road out of town.

Distance to go: 166.8 Kms

Dinner last night was really good. We had a mixed salad to start, grilled trout as a main and cake for me and an ice cream for Debbie, bread and vino tinto of course. €8 each. Not bad. Not bad at all.

We woke at 6am and left the albergue at 06:40 to see how far we would go. No plans were made due to a long and hard climb ahead.

We entered the village of Ruitelán hoping to grab some breakfast. 

Ruitelán

The tumbleweed rolled down the street. No hope of finding an open cafe. On to the next place which was a delightful little village in a valley on a river. La Herrerías was also closed. So we sat on a bench and had some of our own supplies. In La Herrerías you can, if so inclined, rent a horse to ride which will carry you up the incline.  I have an inane fear of horses. They have a dangerous end at each end and a saggy bit in the middle. We used Shanks’ pony. Our own 2 legs.

The path behind us.

We left and started climbing. Initially on a road and then off left onto a woodland track. The track started nice and gentle. We were pleasantly surprised. For 10 minutes. Then the track turned stony and steep. Very steep in places. Equine and bovine splatterforia in copious quantities sprayed about the slope made it a pungent as well as a slippery experience. However, the birdsong and woodland climb was lovely.

The infamous cabbages of La Faba.

Just when I thought my heart would leap out of my chest after 3 Kms of climbing with a 10KG backpack we entered the small hamlet of La Faba where an open cafe beckoned. When we stopped we cooled very quickly. On went the coats and hats. Hot tea and toast revived us. We climbed on. 

Nearly at cloud base.

More steep and stoney slopes with rustic farmyard nasal assaults. My legs and heart were pumping as best they could. This was slow and hard progress. A regular rhythm to the legs and breathing was essential. The air thinned as we climbed higher. After 2.6 Kms we entered Laguna de Castilla. A cafe beckoned. We both said we have got to keep going. If we sit down now then Kaput!

Getting colder now.

We kept climbing. The temperature continued to drop. We entered into the mist. By now I just wanted this climb to end. My legs hurt. My heart was thumping and my breathing was deep and long. Mist was all around us. We were damp and chilled. We climbed on. The guide book raved about the views. We saw 20 feet in front of us because of the mist. A chilly wind blew the water drops off the trees as we passed beneath. We needed warmth and soon. We entered Galicia. Our last border crossing.

Damp and chilly now.

It came. At last we entered the small town of O’Cebreiro and found an inviting cafe. We entered and had a hot drink. My fingers tingled from the cold and dampness of my clothing but we felt so much better knowing we had completed the climb.

Entering O’Cebreiro.

We talked about our friend Keith. He of the terrible foot problems. He would be entering Santiago about now. How we admired his tenacity. I loved his blogs. We read each one as they come in. What courage that man has to continue with his feet in tatters. My sore legs and pounding heart are nothing compared to what that man has endured. He inspired us to continue. Our original plan was to stay but it was too cold and damp.

Descending below the clouds again.

We pushed on. More climbing. Another decent to test my sore left knee. Another 3.1 Kms. We arrived at Liñares. We continued.

Pilgrim statue.

We went another 2.4 Kms up and down on gravel tracks passing a large pilgrim statue. The albergue in Hospital de la Condesa beckoned. We arrived. It was closed. I was knackered. We pushed on. I was not happy. Although this was a relatively short distance for us the climbs had exacted a heavy toll on my legs. There was not much juice left in the tank. Another 3.3 Kms brought us up another very steep and rocky slope to Alto do Poio at 1335 metres above sea level and albergue Del Puerto. It is a cafe and bar with an albergue at the back. We paid our €6 and were shown into the bunks.

It is a damp place. It smells damp. There is mildew staining on the ceiling. I could not go on otherwise I would not stay here. This is a private albergue with poor facilities and given the choice I would miss it. But there is nothing for another 3.5 Kms and I could not make that. The soup in the cafe is good. By 19:00 the place is full of pilgrims all knackered. I can only think that this is why this place survives. Some government health inspector needs to check this place out. It is not fair on us pilgrims.

We have a pasta dinner. Debbies is cold. We retire to bed dissatisfied with our money spent. We will get somewhere better tomorrow for sure.

Distance walked today: 20.4 Kms

6 July 2014

Day 34: Alto do Poio to Triacastela

What the morning brought.

Distance to go: 146.4Kms

We both slept fairly well under a heavy blanket. We woke to a cool room that felt damp. None of the clothes that Debbie washed last night were anywhere near being dry. We had spares but heavy rain was falling and we were going to get wet even more. We dressed and went into the cafe for some tea and toast. A roaring log fire was going.

In summer….Really?

 This was July was it not? I visited the loo for a quick pit stop before we made ourselves ready to go. I wished I had not. What was I supposed to do with this?

No user instructions.

We bit the bullet, donned our ponchos and set off into the cold rain for the first part of the walk to Fonfria some 3.5 Kms downhill. It was really cold and quite miserable. We went on the road as the actual Camino was flooded in places. The road although wet was well drained and we made good progress. We passed Fonfria and kept going.

This is the road to hell.

We stayed on the road as the path in these conditions was going to be too slippery in my view so we took no chances and stayed on the tarmac.

I got a soggy right foot. Debbie got two wet feet. I suspect my Goretex uppers were letting in the rain. Same story for Debbie’s boots.

Slow going on slippery slopes.

We ploughed on. The road started to part company with the Camino so we cut down a small farm track and joined the Camino. Dropping down some stoney slopes was slow progress. Don’t want to risk any twisted ankles now. We dropped out of the clouds and there was a suggestion of warmth.

It was all downhill from here.

By now the small town of Triacastela was only around 4 Kms away. We were going to be there around 11:30. We decided that we would stop there. We both had wet feet, wet clothes and our reserve clothes were not dry from yesterday. There was no point pressing on. 

Our faces on deciding to go no further.

We found a very nice albergue and for €9 each we have a double bed in a small private room off the bunk room. It is worlds apart from the damp nasty place we stayed in last night.

Our little cave for the night. Warm and dry.

Our albergue: A Horta del Abel. Small and clean and warm. Recommended!

We showered. The Hospitalera in charge took our washing and has washed and dried it whilst we went to a local cafe and demolished a plate of fried eggs, sausage, salad and chips washed down with tea.

Before.

After. Most unusual for Debbie.

We have dry clothes, full tummies, our boots are nearly dry and we are rested and our Joie de Vivre tanks are full again.

A pilgrims lot is not a happy one…….a happy one…..

We will return to the fried egg cafe for the pilgrims dinner, a little wine and then a little more.

My friend Keith has arrived in Santiago and here is his blog entry for the day. Click this link.

I hope that we will experience the same and I hope he will not mind me publishing the link. He writes more eloquently than I do and has sent me some photos that he and his daughter Tanya took in the earlier days of our Camino.

As for tomorrow. Well we shall see what the morning brings. The weather has improved beyond measure. The sun is out. It is warm and thats good for the soul both mine and my boots.

Distance walked today: 12.5 Kms

7 July 2014

Day 35: Triacastela to Barbadelo

Different day, different weather.

Distance to go: 133.9 Kms

What a difference a day makes. Our alarm went off at 6am and by 0640 we were out and about and walking. The morning was clear and a little cloudy but dry and that was the most important thing. 

Great local music in the street.

We had a wonderful dinner last night in a local restaurant. Some local musicians with a drum, accordion and Galician bagpipes entertained us and we met up with a marine that we last saw on day 13 and had not seen since. He had lost weight and looked a lot fitter. We also met up with a trio of people that we last saw three days previously. It is quite something how people come into and out of ones lives on the Camino.

The walk today was just wonderful. Lots of woodland walking mostly on off road paths with views that reminded me of New Zealand, Wiltshire and Yorkshire. We could be forgiven for thinking we were travelling between these places as we moved along.

Fabulous views again today.

We left Triacastela on a quiet country road and passed through the hamlet of Balsa where only the cows and chickens stirred. The road was tree lined, cool and shady. We left the road and started to climb up a fairly steep gradient into denser woodland and stopped at a quiet spot by a natural spring fountain for breakfast. Here I was to learn a most important lesson. Do not judge people by looking at them only. For as we sat at this quiet spot a group of 5 young Spaniards arrived, lit up cigarettes and started cavorting about. 5 minutes later a group of around 30 youngsters, also Spaniards turned up and our peace was gone. We packed up quickly and moved on upset at the disturbance.

Shocking pink walker. Never hard to miss!

The group of 5 and then the larger group passed us. We noticed that one of the tail enders of the larger group had a small red plastic chair strapped to his back. We wondered why on earth would somebody do that. We were still upset that our peace had gone. We climbed up to Alto do Riocabo at 910 metres above sea level and sat and looked at the views. We heard a woodpecker and a cuckoo in the woods below.

As we descended down towards the tiny hamlet of Montán the young man with the red chair strapped to him was feeding some grass to calves in an enclosure. He greeted us in perfect english and asked where we were from. I replied and asked him about the chair. It turns out the large group were young Jesuits walking to Santiago. They were being sponsored to raise money to equip a school in Africa. The chair was a small replica of ones they would be buying for the school. They were so polite. I was so ashamed that I had thought ill of them. They were full of youthful exuberance and were in awe that we had walked so far. 

This youngster taught me a valuable lesson.

They moved on. So did we to the next small hamlet of Furela where Casa Do Franco was waiting to relieve us of cash for tea and buns.

As we arrived the 5 young Spaniards who were cavorting about earlier were sitting on the wall outside the cafe and watched us approach. As we did one of them asked in perfect English again where we were from. I replied and asked them why they were walking. One of their friends who delivers bread around the villages where they live swerved to avoid a dog, crashed his van and ended up in hospital. The villagers were sponsoring these 5 lads from the same village to go to Santiago. If they did then the money they raised would pay for a new van for their friend. I learned my lesson today. I was humbled twice within the space of 2 hours.

As did these 5.

We moved on through more tiny hamlets of cow farmers eventually arriving at the outskirts of Sarria. The beautiful scenery gave way to grey suburbia and we entered the old town. What greeted us was a steep set of around 50 steps up into the old town. We groaned. We climbed and at the top caught our breath before climbing up the shallow slope of Rua Maior. I can’t say I was overly taken by Sarria. Not compared to some of the beautiful places we have been through.

Looking down the Camino in Sarria

Sarria is an important milestone on the Camino. This is the starting point for a great many pilgrims for this is the minimum distance from Santiago that you need to walk to get a “Compostela” when you arrive at the cathedral. This is the certificate that records you have completed your Camino. We can expect many more people on the path from here on in.

We decided to move on to the next village for some quiet time. We left Sarria and crossed the Rio Celeiro by the Ponte Áspera or ‘rough bridge’ which describes the rough cut stone of this medieval bridge. The path again was quiet and took us through woodland before climbing steeply up into fields  and eventually to our home for the night in a little hamlet called Vilei just south of the town of Barbadelo.

Ponto Áspera

Our albergue is Casa Barbadelo. It is lovely. We paid €15 each for a proper bed in a room of 4. It is wonderfully clean and tidy and has a swimming pool in which I dangled my legs to cool my feet and knees. Wonderful!!

Our bed for the night

Dont see too many of these in the albergues

We had a great lunch and it is now time for a siesta to sleep it off. Tomorrow we will get under the 100 Kms to go mark. How on earth did that happen?

Distance walked today: 21.4 Kms

8 July 2014

Day 36: Barbadelo to Portomarín

The path west.

Distance to go: 112.5 Kms

It was quite a warm and muggy night. Neither of us slept that well. The Italian and Argentine gentlemen that were in the room with us did not seem to mind. They were both snoring away contentedly. 

We woke to the alarm clock at 6am, dressed and packed our bags and went for breakfast. “Would you like fried eggs, bacon and toast” said the nice waitress in the cafe at the albergue. “No thanks, just tea and toast” said I. It came and it was good. Until I got the bill. €8.50 each. When I explained that we only had a cup of tea and a piece of toast I was told that the breakfast was a standard price no matter what we had. The place lost many points for that. I left what was a lovely place in many respects a little disappointed. Now I know how they afford the swimming pool.

It had been raining overnight and it was not long before we climbed up into mist and light drizzle. The ponchos came out. It was still warm mind you. The walk was another glorious hoof through woodlands and meadows. Some on minor roads and some on earth paths. The air was clean and thick. We could smell the trees and pastures all around us. It was earthy and the odour of cattle was all around. The scenery on this side of the mountains is so much greener than the Meseta or indeed anything we have come through so far. The temperatures are much cooler overall as well as the influence of the Atlantic becomes more apparent.

The scenery just draws you into it.

Tiny hamlets and farmsteads dotted the way again much as they did yesterday. What I have noticed in Galicia is that the locals dont give the warm waves and smiles to pilgrims as we pass. In fact some are quite short or even ignored us entirely. Maybe they see too many pilgrims passing by. However those same pilgrims do spend a lot of money along the way and contribute quite significantly to the local economies. The peoples to the east always said Hola or waved and smiled. Much different here.

By around 9am the rain stopped and the sun tried its very best to pierce the grey blanket of cloud. It failed but its warmth got through.

This could be anywhere in England.

We stopped at the Cafe Morgade in the hamlet of Morgade for a delicious piece of cake and a big mug of tea for Debbie and a coffee for me. Jimmy, if you read this put this place as a must stop at. It was really good. Many pilgrims swelled the coffers here.

Is that all?

 We passed the 100 Kms to go to Santiago marker. We paused beside the insignificant concrete post that has had its plate stolen and some kind soul has scribbled the number 100 upon it for us and parked a wheelie bin beside it. I was disappointed at first when I saw it. This was a highly significant milestone for us. Should there not be more? The I thought no, this is the Camino. I would not have minded if there was nothing at all there. We dont need a concrete post to remind us. We knew already.

Cafe La Bodeguiña

We moved on through Ferrerios where an artisan shop by the path sold all sorts of Camino trinkets.The path climbed slowly again to around 650 metres above sea level at Alto Páramo before dropping gently into the hamlet of Mercadoiro where the La Bodeguiña cafe caught our eye. It was hard to miss. Descending through a tunnel of trees on a stony path you suddenly burst out into daylight and there was a large Guiness sign beside the road. We entered. We had more tea. This was another very nice watering hole.

We share the road with many walkers.

We started the slow descent into the valley in which Portomarín lies. However, just before reaching the bridge which crosses the large reservoir in front of the town we had to descend steeply down a narrow lane. That really gave my left knee a severe tweaking.

Portomarín lies in the valley below.

We crossed the reservoir and what did we find at journeys end? A flight of stone stairs to climb. Weary legs hoiked a body and backpack up the steps then through the streets of Portomarín to our accommodation. We are staying at El Caminante B+B. We arrived too early. The rooms were not ready. We dumped our packs and went to a local cafe for lunch.

The bridge to Portomarín

From the bottom.

From the top. I had to wait 5 minutes to catch my breath and hold the camera still!

We have showered, rested and are ready for dinner somewhere. I hope we see other pilgrims we know.

Iglesia San Nicolas. XII century. A bit austere looking.

Whilst having lunch we noticed that all the stones on the church were numbered. We asked why. In 1967 it was moved from its original site in the valley which was dammed and flooded to make the reservoir. It was rebuilt block by block in its new position. 

Now that we are under the 100 Kms to go, Santiago for the first time seems close by. Our Camino is drawing to its close. I am happy and sad at that. I am not too sure how I will feel entering Santiago at this stage. I dont have any travel plans sorted to get us home yet either. It somehow does not seem the right time to organise them yet. I remember all the pilgrims we set out with. I am sure some are already in Santiago having walked faster than we do. I am sure some are behind as well. I would really like to meet some though. I dont know why. It just seems right that we should meet one for time to say look what we did.

Distance walked today: 19.7 Kms

9 July 2014

Day 37: Portomarín to Eirexe

Morning on the Embalse de Belesar reservoir.

Distance to go: 92.8 Kms

Yesterday, whilst sitting having a beer in the evening sunshine by the church watching the world go by a German lady called Sylvia who we have met on and off for the past 5 weeks wandered by and Mark our marine friend. So we sat and had another beer until the sun went down behind the surrounding buildings and it got rather chilly. We talked about the thrashing of Brazil 7-1 by the Germans. Sylvia gave me a wristband in the German colours to wear instead of my Brazil football shirt. We talked about what to do in Santiago. We all agreed a soak in a bath would be a high priority.

It was a warm and humid night. Neither Debbie nor I slept particularly well. With some reticence we got up at 6am and left our accommodation at 06:30 in search of a cafe for breakfast. We found one populated by noisy Spaniards. Why do they have to shout so much?

A fine morning in the hills. 

We left and rejoined the path down by the reservoir descending the steps we climbed at the end of yesterday. This morning it was abundantly clear that a great many more pilgrims were on the path having joined yesterday in Sarria. We did not see them yesterday as we were ahead of them. They caught us up in Portomarín. As far as you could see the path was very busy. There was no peace or quiet. I think those days of walking alone are over. I preferred the tranquility of the path a few weeks ago to this. Some carried radios playing music whilst others talked incessantly. I like to hear the birds. Not today.

A bit of peace and quiet.

The path started a long and steady climb up into woods. Dappled sunlight lifted our spirits and for a brief 10 minutes we were on our own. It was wonderful. A stiff North wind kept the day cool. It was a walk of 7.8 Kms along woodland paths and roads to the first tea stop at a cafe in Gonzar. What a little goldmine that place was. It was packed full of pilgrims.

Stop one in Gonzar.

We walked alongside the road and on minor roads for more than half the day passing the hamlet of Castromaior and into the aptly named hamlet of Hospital. So called as it used to have a pilgrim hospital here in ages past. Nothing is left except a large dairy farm. 

Stop two in Ventas de Narón.

We continued only 1.4 Kms to the next hamlet of Ventas de Narón. Here the strangely named Casa Molar provided sustenance in the form of tea and a bocadilla Francesca. This is basically half a french baguette with an omelette stuffed into it. The freshly made omelette was hot and slightly soft and was simply divine. Simple fare for simple pilgrims. It fortified the spirit and powered the legs onwards. Just as we were finishing, our german lady friend Sylvia turned up, took one look at the bocadillo and ordered one herself. They really are good these bocadillos but you do tend to get a bit fed up of them after a while.

You see a lot of these strange structures dotted about. They are for storing and drying corn and maize.

We walked on and met Peter and Lynda, a Canadian couple slightly younger than us and started chatting as you do on this Camino. It turns out they are going to take a first cruise on the Queen Mary 2 out of Southampton for his 50th birthday in a few weeks. Small world.

Our accommodation. Pension Mesón in Eirexe.

We reached our accommodation. It is a small B+B in the even smaller hamlet of Eirexe which consists of our B+B, a cafe/restaurant and an albergue. Our place is called Pension Mesón and is lovely. It is clean and tidy and we were warmly greeted by the owner. It is miles from anywhere and that suits us just fine. The masses will be staying at the stage end in Palas de Rei. We will avoid the stage ends. Thats where all those starting in Sarria will head for. By stage ends I am referring to the guide books. They break the Way up into stages A to B to C and so forth. From Sarria to Santiago there are 5 stages and that is where the crowds will be. We will stay at half stages that are passed by and thus tend to be much more peaceful. We dont have the facilities the large towns have but we can pick up what we need when we pass through on our way.

We had a basic pilgrims dinner in the cafe across the road from us for €10 each. It was OK. It would not win any culinary awards but it did fill some gaps. 

Finally, I have been a bit remiss with my dog of the day. Partly due to the ill tempered nature of the pooches in these parts. Most bare their teeth when I approach and are mostly alsatians. This one stayed put and posed nicely for me. There is no wifi here so you will get this a day late. Until then toddle loo.

Well mannered pooch.

Distance walked today: 17.1 Kms

Day 38: Eirexe to Melide

A Perfect morning for a 22Km stroll

Distance to go: 75.7 Kms

I had a great nights sleep. Debbie had an OK night. We woke to the alarm at 6am. It was a lovely morning to go walking. Cool and bright. The stiff wind yesterday had dropped to a gentle breeze still from the north off the Bay of Biscay. It kept the temperatures cool such that we walked in shirt sleeves but as soon as we stopped we needed another layer for warmth to stop getting chilled.

Today was a day of long but steady climbs and descents on roads and woodland paths. We were accompanied by what seemed like school kids chaperoned by adults in groups of 20 to 30. We dropped back to let them pass on ahead to get a little bit of quiet as we walked. The scenery was so much like home. Everything is green and mainly deciduous woodlands dotted with small dairy farms. We are rarely alone anymore so it is wonderful when we get the chance to spend some time walking together with nobody else around.

Fire wood store.

The first stretch was 2.2 Kms to the village of Portos. We carried on through passing the small cafe. Our guide book showed a cafe at the next village of Brea another 3 kms ahead. We would have walked about an hour and a half by then and thats enough to warrant a stop for refreshments and let the knees and legs rest after the ups and downs of the day. We got to Brea. The cafe was closed. Disaster! Nothing else to do but move on.

Sun finally gets above the hill tops.

We walked another 3.5 Kms to the town of Palas de Rei. This was rather a grey and uninteresting place. The cafes were either closed or not appealing at all. We stopped briefly at San Tirso church where for a small donation we got our pilgrim credential stamped.

Palas de Rei looms closer.

We passed through and stopped in the hamlet of Carballal for a drink of water and a cereal bar to make up for the lack of anywhere nice serving teas and coffee.

Way marker in Palas de Rei.

We passed through some small hamlets and other than some cattle and a few chickens we saw nobody. This really is a very sleepy corner of the world. It was around 10am. Where is everybody? We passed San Xulián which had a cafe. It was closed.

Interesting statue shows the way to Santiago

This was turning out to be a harder day than we thought it would be. We moved onto the next village of O Coto. A cafe was open. Now you would not have thought that cafes were so important on the Camino but they are essential. They are the chance to rest, catch up with fellow pilgrims and take a break. Of course you could take a break at any time by sitting on a wall but it is not the same thing. The cafe at O Coto was packed full which makes me wonder why all the others were closed. We sat and had tea and coffee and a big hearty sandwich. Sylvia, our German lady friend turned up. It was great to see her again.

Medieval bridge out of San Xulian

We moved on for the final push into Melide. It was rather a dull walk through industrial parks interspersed with some woodland on gravel paths. There is a steep descent onto a lovely old bridge at the eastern entrance to the city. Passing some cafes full of very noisy  locals we moved on into the town centre. I dont know what it is about the towns in this part of Spain. They all seem a little run down and grubby. Cigarette ends and rubbish lie around. I do hope the pilgrims are not doing much of it. The locals would really not like us for that.

I saw these just before Melide and loved the significance of it.

After a bit of wandering around town we found our albergue. We are staying in albergue San Anton. It has only been open since April this year. We got a warm greeting from the hospitalera Rocio. For our €10 we were given a bar of soap each, a first on the camino so far, a pillow and mattress cover and shown to our dormitory. We both have a bottom bunk in a room of 8. It is very clean and tidy and well presented and centrally located.

Our dorm.

Debbie doing the normal chores.

The garden.

Our host Rocio.

The dining room and bar.

I am sitting in the garden under a tree typing this. It is all rather lovely. Rocio says I must try the local speciality of pulpo Gallega. Octopus. I have seen it. I dont mind calimari but octopus just seems a little tentically. My spell checker does not like that.

Distance walked today: 22.3 Kms.

11 July 2014

Day 39: Melide to Salceda

Another perfect morning on the camino.

Distance to go: 53.4 Kms.

We had dinner in the San Anton albergue last night. There are no nice cafes in this town so we shopped at the local supermarket and had a really nice home made dinner. It looked like many other pilgrims were doing the same thing.

We had another disturbed night unfortunately which took the shine of this lovely place. A group of young Spaniards turned up at 9PM and checked into our dorm and started chatting on their mobile phones and left the room about 21:30. Thats ok. We did not book the whole room and we need to share it.  Lights out in most of these albergues is 10pm. They came back at 11PM and put the lights on and started again. Thats not OK. I complained and said let’s all get some sleep. Another 2 turned up at 1:45 in the morning and thats really not ok. It is hard to be ‘nice’ to other pilgrims when they behave like that. Feeling a little tired we got up, had breakfast and left around 06:45. It was a stunning morning. Cool and fresh with clear skies. Perfect for taking a stroll.

Just outside Melide we paused at a significant milestone. The 50 Kms to go mark and had a photo taken. Were we really that close now? We could almost hear the noise of Santiago in the distance. For the first hour we were alone with our thoughts. It was lovely but the chattering line of pilgrims soon caught up.

I just loved this tiny house.

This was a long and quite a tough day. We wanted to be able to walk into Santiago on Sunday morning with around 10 Kms to go so working back we needed to push on today to leave us a reasonable walk tomorrow and around 10 Kms on Sunday. The terrain was undulating with some steep ascents and descents into and out of shallow valleys through which small streams ran. Once the sun got up the temperatures rose into the high 20s. Much of the path was on woodland tracks or on minor roads.

First break of the day was at the hamlet of Boente where a new Cafe run by a German family provided great hospitality and a stamp for our pilgrim passport. We need to keep collecting a minimum of two of these stamps a day now from Sarria according to the rules to be sure we get our ‘Compostela’, our certificate of completion in Santiago.

German cafe in the morning sun.

Pilgrims on horseback.

Down into the next valley. Cross the stream and climb up again. We passed through Casteñada. Cafe closed. Missed opportunity as the snake of pilgrims pass by. Next village was Ribadiso. Cafe open and heaving with pilgrims. Cafe con leche for me and a tea con leche for Debbie. The village of Ribadiso is absolutely delightful. Its albergue has recently won awards for its renovation and sitting by a roman bridge on the river the location was exquisite. If I had known I would definitely liked to have stayed there. We saw two pilgrims on horseback doing the Camino. They looked just like something out of a western.

Inviting benches for weary backsides.

The climb out of Ribadiso went on and on only to be rewarded with the rather sprawling and dull town of Arzúa. Other than a supermarket or two it really had nothing to offer. The pilgrims walked on through it. The camera stayed in my pocket.

Ribadiso albergue.

Ribadiso bridge

The next stretch of the way of some 10 Kms was wonderful walking. There were more ups and downs through rolling hills on woodland paths offering lots of cool shade from the sun. Eucalyptus trees so prevalent in New Zealand filled the air with their wonderful scent and littered the path with their strips of paper like bark. It was tough going but delightful. Then, when the throat is parched and the heart is pumping and the knees are complaining the Cafe Calzada suddenly appears from nowhere. It too was packed. We had to wait for a table to come free. Debbie had tea and a slice of meat and veg pie. I had coffee and a bacon and cheese bocadillo. We earned it. Food of the Gods this stuff.

The view from our table at cafe Calzada.

This gave us the fuel for the final push of 5.1 Kms to Salceda and our albergue where we treated ourselves to a private room.

For sale. Another weekend project.

This albergue used to be known as the albergue Pousada de Salceda but under its new owner, Santiago (yes really) it has been totally revamped and is now the Albergue Touristica. Santiago is a rather rotund Spaniard who shares the cooking and gives out the warmest of welcomes. He speaks good English and I liked him as soon as I saw and heard him. I booked this place last night on booking.com and I am glad I did. I usually dont like to book ahead as it ties you into a place and a destination which you must reach come hail, rain or shine but with this number of people and the problems we have had since Sarria with the volume and often the kind of pilgrim, booking is essential. I dont mean that unkindly but the pilgrims we are meeting since Sarria are very different from those we have walked with since St Jean.

Our room did not disappoint. Room 107 is just delightful and peaceful and cool and calm with a fabulous shower. We unpacked, took a shower, snoozed and just relaxed. This place is around 200 metres off the Camino which initially deterred us. 200 metres is nothing but when your legs, knees and feet are aching it is a big deal! We both love the place and recommend it for a stop if needed. It is clean and tidy and so quiet.

The bathroom.

The room.

View from the bar!

We will walk around 16 kms tomorrow so we may even get a lie in until 7am. Hope springs eternal.

Distance walked today: 25.4 Kms.

12 July 2014

Day 40: Salceda to Lavacolla

A multicoloured hydrangea hedge catches to morning sun.

Distance to go: 28 Kms

We had a really good dinner last night at the albergue. Debbie had a salad with croquette potatoes, chicken and rice pudding. I had the salad, fish and calimari and the rice pudding as well. It comes of course with vino tinto and bread. It was really good. All for €10. The food and accommodation on the Camino has been so good and reasonable.

A beautiful day in the woods.

We both slept well despite the neighbours dog barking and woke to the alarm at 7am. The last time we woke that late other than our rest day in León was the day we left St Jean Pied de Port to start the Camino. We are usually up and way by now to beat the mid afternoon sun and heat.

We had a nice breakfast in the albergue before saying farewell to our host, Santiago and his wife and set off at the late hour of 8am.

Another stunning morning.

Today was a day mainly on woodland tracks and paths, some ups and some downs with little trudging on the roads which is wonderful on the knees. Much of the way passed through large stands of eucalyptus trees which I understand were and are being grown for the wood pulp industry. The smell of them again in the early morning air is wonderful. We could have been in the South Island of New Zealand again.

Guillermo Watt memorial. I loved the bronze sandals in the recess.

After only a kilometre we passed a small memorial to a pilgrim by the name of Guillermo Watt who died on this spot in 1993 aged 69 only 1 day from his journeys end. You often see little memorials and photos of people that have died left along the Camino in remembrance. We paused for a few minutes and walked on. 

We caught up with the American mum and daughter, Ingram and Whitney, that we seem to have been shadowing on and off for the last 3 weeks and took a bit of a tongue in cheek photo of them climbing one of the lesser hills of the day.

Another big climb for Ingram and Whitney.

First stop of the day and a chance to stamp our pilgrim passports was at the cafe Oceadoiro in O Emplane. We basically sat at a table in a lay-by but it was worth it to be revived by tea. We moved on and passed through a lovely little village called Santa Irene.

Pilgrim bathing was basic in the old days.

I had an Auntie Irene so I thought it would be nice to pay a little visit. It was really lovely. At the entrance to the hamlet was a natural spring where in days of yore pilgrims could wash and bathe. A kind inhabitant had left a basket of plums and apples at her front door for passing pilgrims to help themselves. The plums were rich and juicy. The thought behind the kind present was enriching. We could see the trees in a small orchard in her back garden. This tiny place even had a small albergue for passing pilgrims. It was immaculate.

Santa Irene albergue.

We moved on and took a detour around the town of O Pedrouzo which did not look inviting. A French lady approached us in some distress having lost her friend, Nicole. She showed us a picture on her camera of her. We had not seen her and could not help. I suggested getting to Santiago and leaving a message with the pilgrims office. I could not do anything more and she said goodbye to us. I did not want to leave her but we had to move on.

A kind soul had built this bench. Another pilgrims rest.

3.5 Kms along the Camino we came to the cafe Amenal and we ordered an eggie tortilla stuffed with ham, tomato, cheese and lettuce and of course a cup of tea. As we sat down Debbie pointed out a lady and reckoned it was the French ladies friend. I approached and in my very rusty french asked if she was Nicole. “Oui” she said. I asked whether she had a friend that was missing. She said yes. She had her friends mobile number but no phone. I dug mine out of my backpack and dialled. Success. By the time we had eaten our lunch and drunk our tea the two friends were reunited and very relieved to be so. They hugged us and we left them too it chastising each other for being so stupid. I smiled for quite some time. This Camino really get under your skin. 

Cafe Amenal. A good pit stop.

Cafe Amenal was another excellent stop for right after it is a climb that at the time seemed never ending. It went up and up and up. Half way up my phone buzzed. It was a text from our friends Jimmy and Antoinette wishing us well for our entry into Santiago tomorrow. They went home in Frómista on our day 21 which seems ages ago and will return to finish the rest of the Camino in September. It made me smile again. I showed Debbie. We talked about Jimmy and Antionette as we climbed. Antoinette could have a hot and sweaty day on the Camino. But within an hour of arriving in the albergue she was showered, always wore a dress and always looked as though she had just come in from the garden. 

We passed through a small wood of mixed Eucalyptus and pine trees and came across another makeshift pilgrim memorial. These provide some very poignant moments. A few minutes to look at the pictures and read the words reminds us of the losses suffered by others. I find it quite humbling. The first picture speaks for itself. The second one is of an unknown man whose photos we have seen all along the Camino. He was clearly somebody very dear to a pilgrim but I have no idea who he was.

Such messages can be seen all the way along the Camino.

This man photo appears all the way along the camino.

Cresting the hill we could see the runway lights and structures of Santiago airport. The path descended on a gravel road north of the runway and dropped down into the delightful hamlet of San Payo. The cafe Porta de Santiago looked really inviting but with only 2 Kms to go we decided to press on.

Within striking distance now.

We are staying at the Hotel Ruta Jacobean in Lavacolla. It is like a dream coming at us and oozes comfort. Lavacolla is where in days past pilgrims would stand in large tubs of water and wash and purify themselves before heading into the city. Our hotel room had a bath!!! We have not had a bath in over 6 weeks. We did our own washing and purification following the age old tradition. Just in a bit more comfort. Being a modern hotel there is nowhere to wash our clothes. So the bath tub has come in useful and everything is hanging out the windows to dry. No doubt lowering the tone of the place somewhat. One cannot walk in dirty smalls. Most uncomfortable.

Home for the night

A bit different to our usual nightly stops.

We went for a walk around Lavacolla. It is a quiet residential area of Santiago. Back at the hotel we sat on the verandah and facetimed my dad and texted our fellow pilgrims whom we had shared coffee, miles and blisters with. Two were sat in Santiago airport waiting for flights home. They are sitting not 4 Kms from where we were and yet were miles away. 

I am really not sure what tomorrow will bring. I have many mixed feelings about it all.

Maybe I am thinking too hard about it all. 

Maybe we shall just walk into the city and stand before the cathedral and see what comes.

I will let you know tomorrow.

Distance walked today: 16.6 Kms.

13 July 2014

Day 41: Lavacolla to Santiago De Compostela

Distance to go: 11.4 Kms

A shameless selfie as we begin the walk to Santiago city.

We set the alarm for 7am, a real luxury. We dressed, packed, ate breakfast and set off at 8am for our final destination, the cathedral at Santiago De Compostela. It was a cool and overcast day. Could it really be the last day? For so long Santiago seemed so far away. Since Sarria the kilometres seemed to pass by at an ever increasing rate. We were excited, apprehensive and at times a little sad that our Camino was coming to an end. Or was it?

Vilamaior

We climbed out of Lavacolla on a minor road. It was quite steep at first which got the heart and legs pumping so early. Some friends of ours, Ingram and Whitney and Silvia stayed in the albergue at Vilamaior, the next village along. As we passed through a voice called from behind. It was Silvia. She was about to have breakfast. We hugged and promised to meet her in Santiago.

We moved on. We continued to climb on the roads passing the Galician TV building and huge transmission mast.

All the cafes we passed were closed at this hour on a Sunday. We kept going being drawn closer to journeys end.

We came to Monte Del Gozo, Mount Joy. Here, a huge albergue lying on the outskirts of the city lies sprawling across the hillside. Capable of housing 500 people this is a purpose built self contained facility. On the highest point stands a huge monument commemorating the visit of Pope John Paul II. 

Pope John Paul II monument on Monte Del Gozo.

Over to one side stands another monument that has no signposts and which was bypassed by most pilgrims. We caught a glimpse of it in the distance and decided to go over and investigate. I am so glad we did for it is of two large bronze statues of pilgrims pointing. Follow their hands and for the very first time we saw away in the distance the twin spires of Santiago cathedral. We felt very emotional. For 6 weeks we had walked and finally our destination was visible. No wonder it is called Mount Joy. Pilgrims over the ages must have felt the same emotions as us at seeing those same spires.

Pilgrims Monument.

A steep descent into the suburbs of Santiago brought us across the motorways and railways into the city where we found a group of college students whooping and laughing at a large sign declaring the name of the city. We had our photo taken and moved on eager to get to the cathedral. 

Nearly there. 4.5 Kms to go.

We entered the old city and holding hands walked down the stairs to the north of the cathedral through a portico under which a Galician piper was busking. At that sound my Mum was right beside me. I could hear her laughing. The last time she saw us before she passed away she thought we were crazy. Now she was with me laughing and dancing to the pipes. As soon as we set foot into Plaza Do Obradoiro, the Golden Square in front of the dramatic West entrance to the cathedral the huge bell in the clock tower struck the first bong of 10 O’Clock. We entered and turned and faced the huge doors and magnificent facade of the cathedral. It was covered in scaffolding for restoration work but that did not matter. We hugged each other and laughed and smiled. Our family was with us. Our 2 boys were with us. We imagined them sitting on the steps saying “not bad for two old guys, not bad at all”. We laughed and hugged again. Other pilgrims in the square all around us were laughing. Some were crying and hugging each other. Others sat on the ground with their legs crossed and chin in their hands and just stared at the cathedral. We joined them and just stood in silence and absorbed it all. We both wished that some of the people we had met way back were with us. We looked around. There was nobody we knew.

West entrance to Santiago De Compostella Cathedral.

After some 20 minutes we went to the pilgrims office to present our pilgrim passport and get our certificates of completion, our Compostelas. Also our hotel, Rua Vilar was right opposite. We would do our papers and check in, drop off our packs and go for a wander. We wanted to attend the pilgrim mass in the cathedral at noon.

Debbie on the steps of the cathedral 

….and me. Exhausted but totally content.

We lined up in the queue at the pilgrims office. Just before it was our turn to enter a voice called out. We turned and looked to see a man waving at us. We did not recognise him and turned to the man behind us in the belief the figure was waving at him. I looked back. The figure was waving at us. We could not believe it for it was Pablo. An American of Spanish and German parents from Houston Texas was standing there larger than life and much slimmer than when we last saw him exactly one month earlier in Viana on our wedding anniversary. He was also the first pilgrim we ever said hello to way back in the pilgrims office in St Jean Pied de Port on the 4th June when we lined up to be issued with our pilgrim passports. He called us his Founding Fathers.

At the Pilgrims office waiting our turn to get our Compostelas.

We got our Compostelas and went over and hugged him. Here was someone from our past and not just anyone but the first pilgrim we ever said hello to. This was too much. We agreed to meet him in the cathedral for the mass at noon. By the time we got there the cathedral was packed and we stood at the back. As we stood somebody else waved. It was a young couple Silvia and Lucas whom we first met the first night of our Camino in Orisson and had not seen since day 12 in Navarette. We hugged each other. They had arrived 1 hour after us. This was getting very emotional now. Oh how we laughed and swapped horror stories. We were told to shhhhh by some Spaniards. I told them to shut up. Churches were supposed to be happy places and we were happy. They limped away. The Mass started.

I did not understand anything as it was all in Spanish but got the jist. The huge Botafumeiro was swung by the 6 Tiraboleiros. This is a huge incense burner that was originally used to fumigate the smelly and often diseased pilgrims. Nothing changes. We were smelly. Maybe not so diseased.

Lucas, Silvia, Pablo, Debbie and I outside the cathedral.

The rest of the day was spent walking the city with Pablo, Lucas and Sylvia and catching up on our Caminos. We were not able to see our German lady friend Silvia. We could not find her but hoped we would see her maybe tomorrow. 

We talked of our missing friends.  Of the people that enriched our Camino and shared our path and lives. Keith and Tanya, Marisa, big Damian, Naughty Angus the Australian, Gerald the lovely Irishman, Jimmy and Antoinette also from Ireland, our two ninjas from Korea and Artur from Costa Rica who is not far behind as he wanted to wait in León for his wife who would accompany him to Santiago.  Of the Sharratts in Sydney and the Turnbulls in the UK who offered encouragement. There are so many more. 

We rounded the day off with our friends in a bar to watch the world cup final. What a day. An emotional roller coaster. It will take time to make sense of everything that has happened and what we managed to do. We have another day in the city tomorrow before we fly home on Tuesday. I hope that more pilgrims we know will make the same arrival as we did. It is one we can never forget. I will write more tomorrow once I make sense of it all.

Distance walked today: 11.4 Kms

14 July 2014

Day 42: Santiago de Compostela. The Last Post.

Morning in Rua Vilar.

Distance to go: Nada, zilch, zip, Zero!!!

We woke and had breakfast on the terrace outside our hotel. We watched the first pilgrims arriving at the Pilgrim Office. There were smiles and hugs and laughing all around. Some people were limping in with bandaged knees and feet. Some walked stiff legged like robots. This is the pilgrims shuffle. We all go through that. We just sat and watched and enjoyed every single minute of it.

Old friends together again.

At 09:15 we met up with Pablo and Lucas and Silvia to go to the Cathedral and hug the Apostle and pay our respects in the relicry of St James beneath the alter. We tried yesterday but the queues were huge. This morning we were alone. 

I climbed the stairs to the figure of St James who gazes out from the alter and put my arms around him. I had my mums bible with me and showed it to him. I had my scallop shell and put it briefly on him. I said a few words in his ear. Very personal things. I confess to not being a deeply religious man. But this was just the right thing to do here and now. If you asked me to explain, I cannot. I climbed down from the lofty height and descended below to see the silver casket in which it is said St James lies. It is set back behind protective bars and glass in a very small room. I showed him my mums bible and my scallop shell that had come all the way from my birth town of Portsmouth in England and had been on the steps of St James church where I was christened. Now here it was actually in front of the very Saint after which the church is named. It will travel in my backpack from now on. For I am a Peregrino and am entitled to wear the shell.

Not the best photo but it shows the finger holes worn in the granite my millions of pilgrims hands.

We saw the Portico Da Gloria. The link will tell you more. Suffice to say that you can only stare in wonder at its magnificence. The worn finger holes are from the hands of millions of pilgrims touching the Tree of Jesse to indicate their arrival in the Cathedral. It is behind a barrier now to protect it from further damage.

Up on the roof….

We took a tour of the Cathedral roof. That was most interesting. Stone roof slabs enabled soldiers to run back and forth to defend it in days past. The views over the city were of course simply the best from this lofty perch. As the hours ticked by we saw more people we had encountered in days past entering the city. That meant more whoops of delight and laughter and hugs and sometimes tears.

A lofty perch

As the day came to a close we knew we had to say farewell to our Camino friends for journeys home were imminent. We had dinner together and said our goodbyes. There were tears. Emails were swapped. Phone numbers were exchanged and suddenly we were alone. I was exhausted.

So our Camino has come to its conclusion. It has been a journey of self discovery.

I have slept with total strangers. We have walked around dormitories in our underwear and not batted an eyelid. Nobody cares what you look like here. Any reservations you had about walking around in your underwear in front of total strangers disappear very quickly on the Camino. I have listened to snoring that could vibrate a bunk bed at 20 paces. I have consumed more white bread in the past 6 weeks than in the rest of my 53 years. I have eaten good and hearty meals. I have eaten terrible ones too with gusto. I have tasted some pretty good Vino Tintos. I have tasted some appalling ones too but said they were excellent to my gracious hosts. I have shared meals with people from every corner of the globe. I have listened to their Camino tales as they listened to mine. I have sat and listened to people play guitars and sing because they thought they were good and told them how fantastic they were when wishing I had my earplugs. I have laughed with people. I have moaned and groaned with people. I have ached with people. I have put my first aid training to use on total strangers. I have panted and sweated my way up hills with a 12KG backpack and collapsed in a heap at the top in fits of laughter in the company of total strangers doing the same thing with me. I have sworn and cussed and questioned a thousand times whose idiotic idea was it to walk 800 Kms across Spain in this damn heat, rain, humidity and all of the former combined and with a backpack and drip dry clothing and whilst climbing up and down hills. I have comforted people in pain and hugged people in distress. I have done the pilgrim shuffle with people. I have lanced and dressed blisters on feet that really ought to have been cut off and thrown away they were so nasty. I have had total strangers come up to me and show me the way when I was in doubt. I have eaten bocadillos (like french baguette sandwiches) with indeterminate fillings because I was so hungry. I have come to know and love my feet. I have come to love Candy (Ibuprofen), blister plasters, corn plasters, vaseline, liner socks and anything else the Pharmacist sold me to bung on my feet and knees that kept me going. I have grown to love the people that went out and painted yellow arrows everywhere to show me the way. Up hills and down in valleys, in woods, in towns and cities they were always there. I used to question why people would put their heads down and march on missing so much covering many Kms a day. Not anymore. Each pilgrim walks their own Camino for their own reasons in their own time.

But most of all I love all the people that came into and out of my Camino. Some for weeks, some for days and some for a few hours. Some for a fleeting moment. Fellow Pilgrims, the local people I met in the shops, Cafes, albergues, out in the fields, in the pharmacies or the lady in the tax office in Melide who left her desk to show me which street to go down when I went into it to ask for help even when I was not smelling or looking my best. My faith in the Human spirit is stronger now than it ever was.

Finally, I love the woman who nursed me through the bad times both mentally and physically, never questioned once our reasons for doing this, washed our rather odorous clothes every night when I collapsed in a heap on my bunk, dressed my blisters and rubbed liniment into my knees and feet and with whom I shared the glorious moment when we entered the cathedral square.

My guardian angel.

So there you are. I hope you have enjoyed the journey and if in time you find yourself on a Camino questioning what on earth you are doing there know this. You are not alone. You are never alone on a Camino.

BUEN CAMINO!

Distance walked today: Not a lot. 

15 July 2014