Distance travelled today was none by road. Around 35 Kms by boat. The day dawned bright and still. We had a lazy start wondering whether to book a boat trip or not. Our Weka paid us a visit over breakfast again hoping for some food no doubt. We dont feed the birds. Especially the Keas. They can become beggars once you start doing that. Having had breakfast we decided to book a boat trip. The lodge provided a shuttle bus down to the departure lounge for the boat. It was a quiet day. I reckon there was about 35 people on our boat. Some had flown in from Queenstown and Te Anau for the trip. After a short safety briefing we were off and what a day. The commentary from the boat Captain Dan was informative, not intrusive and set a good tone. Recent rain had energised the waterfalls. The water was almost an emerald green colour in the fjord. It is difficult to pick a few photos from the many that we took to give you a flavour of the day. Once the trip was over we decided to walk the few kilometres back to the lodge and our van. I’m glad we did as we chanced upon quite a tame Kea sat on the fence and watched us go by. The day was rounded off very nicely with dinner in the lodge restaurant and a cheeky New Zealand red to accompany it. Tomorrow we will head further south. Not sure to where. No plan yet. Here is a selection of todays photos.

Distance travelled today: 292Kms. A crisp, blue sky day dawned. It was chilly overnight and the van was a little on the cool side when we woke. So, instead of getting up, I put the webasto heating on, put the kettle on and retreated back under the duvet. The resident ducks were already awake, having been so since around 6am quacking noisily to each other. Our plan today was simply to get to Milford Sound.

 We set off at 10am and as is the norm, every hour and a half we stop for a rest, a cup of tea and a stretch. I had no idea quite how big Lake Wakatipu is. I was quite wrong thinking that Queenstown was at its southern end. We started off on the road to Mossburn and quickly realised the lake extended farther south than I had imagined. The small township of Kingston actually lies on the southern shores of the lake. This is a glacier specialists paradise. Hanging valleys are scattered everywhere. Evidence of old moraines are everywhere. The scenery flattens out as we head south into pasture lands. We then strike west towards the town of Te Anau and on the horizon lofty peaks rise with snow on their summits. The last time I was in that town was in 1980 but I have no memory of the place. Clearly it has grown significantly since then. It is only once you head north away from the town that the snow capped peaks ahead give you some clue as to what is coming. We stopped a few times to admire the view. The trouble is that around the next bend the view gets better and better. There are signs saying “Avalanche risk-no stopping” dotted along the road . A glance to each side shows evidence of past slips and avalanches which add to the wow factor of this road. Eventually you come to the Homer Tunnel which is enshrined in New Zealand lore. We are camped at the Milford Sound Lodge on the shores of the Sound. We are set among the native trees in a well set out space for camper vans. Native birds called Keas and Wekas so tame they approach within a few feet of us come to check us out. This is a magical place. The peaks tower all around us. It is a humbling landscape. It makes you feel rather insignificant in its magnificence. This was on my bucket list having heard so much about it. All the stories and tales have not done this place any justice at all. It simply leaves you speechless and my photos can only give you a flavour of the sheer majesty of the Sound. You simply need to come see for yourself. I have been into Milford Sound about a dozen times on cruise ships. The journey to the Sound by road beats it hands down ten fold. I will leave you with some images of the day but they don’t do the place any justice really. Tomorrow we will spend the day in Milford Sound and if the weather continues to be so good, we will take a boat trip and get a different perspective to the one I usually get.

Todays distance travelled was 95 Kms. Plans changed today. The intended gondola ride up the mountain never happened for it was shut today and tomorrow. I should have checked but never mind. I did not want to plan this to death rather just go when we were ready. So we decided to take a run up the eastern shore of Lake Wakatipu to the small settlement of Glenorchy. It rained overnight and through the morning so we started the day rather lazily. We had a leisurely breakfast and set off around 11:30 for Glenorchy. The road up the eastern lake shore meanders its way around rocky outcrops and through native bush that stretches from the lofty heights down to the waters edge. The speed limit on the round is meant to be 100Kms/hr. I never got above 80 and was down to around 15 on the narrow and steep sided sections. The rain showers and gusty conditions kept me cautious and I pulled over many times to let faster traffic past me as there are very few good overtaking spots. I did not want anybody taking risks on my account trying to get past me on unsuitable stretches of the road due to impatience. Besides, we were taking it easy to enjoy the outstanding views. The views across the lake to the soaring snow capped peaks opposite reminded me of Loch Ness in the Scottish Highlands. We stopped at Bennetts Bluff to take some photos. It was a brief stop for the biting wind blowing down the lake and smatterings of rain drove us back to the car rather sharpish.

Glenorchy is a small town at the top of the Lake and to here in years gone by the TSS Earnslaw would bring supplies and livestock for the farms and hill stations in the area. Now it is a quiet place. I guess in the height of summer and in covid free times it will get busier.

Having returned to Queenstown we had to make a visit to another icon of the area. Fergburgers. Quite a famous place it would seem as even Ed Sheeran left a poster on the wall claiming the burgers are the best in NZ. They are good. Though they are huge. We wont need to eat for days now.

So that was our day in Queenstown and Glenorchy. Tomorrow we hope to get to Milford Sound. There is still a warning about possible avalanches on the road from Te Anau to Milford Sound so we will check the latest advice tomorrow.

Distance travelled to day was 172 kms. Cardrona is a must see on any Kiwi roadtrip. The collection of old buildings lie in a valley on the back route from Wanaka to Queenstown on the Crown Range Road. The road beyond the hotel is twisty and scenic and has a number of tight hairpin bends to negotiate. For that reason I suspect, our campervan company specifically bans us going beyond the Cardrona hotel and a warning comes up on the satnav not to proceed further. Thats a shame as the summit offers an amazing view. I have ridden the road on a motorcycle. Not to be able to show it to Debbie is a shame.

It is only 20 kms from Wanaka to Cardrona. At around 2 kms from Cardrona is what is known as Bradrona. In days past bras were hung on a fence along the main road to raise awareness of breast cancer. It caused traffic issues with cars slowing down to look at the collection. So the entire collection was moved onto a fence in a purpose built carpark where it lies today. Members of my own family have suffered from the disease so it was only fitting that Debbie left one of her bras as a lasting memory of our visit.

Having backtracked the 20 kms to Wanaka we then headed to Queenstown via Lake Dunstan and Cromwell. The route took us past the Central Otago Pinot Noir vineyards near Bannockburn, past Roaring Meg hydro power station and eventually, after a small detour, to Arrowtown. Another of Debbie’s must see places. It is a small old gold rush town. If there was one thing they could do to enhance it, it would be to ban traffic from the road. It rather spoils the image. There is an amazing sweet (candy) shop reminiscent of days gone by. We simply had to go for a visit inside and get some mint humbugs.

Our final stop for the day was in Queenstown where we are staying at the Queenstown Holiday park and motels at Creeksyde. It is a very clean, centrally located and rather quirky place and we love it. The town is a very easy walk away and we spent the evening wandering into town and walking along the beachfront. I wanted to see the old steam boat the TSS Earnslaw which was docked. Our what3words location is : torrid.exhibiting.essay We are here for two nights so tomorrow we will see whether we can go up the mountain on the gondola weather permitting and a visit to Fergburger. More on that tomorrow.

Todays mileage was 266 Kms from Fox Glacier to Wanaka. Overnight the wind howled shaking the van from side to side and the rain fell. And fell. And more fell. The West Coast of the South Island of New Zealand is not Verdant for no good reason. I can now spot a sand fly at 50 paces before it chomps on me. My initial chore of the day was to empty the portable sewage cassette and the waste water tank. Something I had pushed to the back of my mind on day 1. But now I needed to get on with it. The facilities at the camp were very good and I must say that the experience, whilst not rating as one of my most memorable was not one that I would fear when the time came to repeat it. We set off around 10am and struck south on highway 6 for the first town of note called Haast. One must remember that on this coast there is hardly a straight stretch of road at all. That coupled with scenery to take your breath away would mean that slow progress could be expected. However, driving rain reducing visibility to a matter of 50 metres at times slowed my speed. When we climbed up the twisty roads to skirt the peaks that line this route mist and cloud reduced progress to under 40 kms an hour at times. But it was still staggeringly beautiful. A sensory overload. What struck me was how few cars we saw. I know we are coming to the end of the kids school holiday but I was not expecting to see less that 15 cars on the entire journey. If I were to pick one section that epitomises the entire route it would be the section over the Gates of Haast. The road climbs up into the clouds, then dips down into a chasm of a valley where mist and foaming water churn past huge boulders. It then climbs steeply and windingly away up into the mist again before continuing on through native bush untouched for Millenia. The smell of the wet native vegetation was heady, the roar of the numerous waterfalls fuelled by the downpours were deafening and the misty mountains all around were surreal. No wonder this is Lord of the Rings country. Orcs could be hiding anywhere. We needed frequent stops to rest, for this was intense stuff. We are now camped for the night in Wanaka. The daily chores of emptying the rubbish, sweeping the dirt that gathers on the floor of the van out and refilling the water tank are done. I need to rest. I need to remember what I have seen today. I somehow need to store away the images that made me gasp in wonder, shout look at that to Debbie and crane my neck to see just another waterfall whilst trying to keep a 2 tonne van on a slither of wet tarmac. I’m exhausted but exhilarated. Can the rest of the journey ever compare to this? We shall have to see. I will leave you with a few photos that encapsulate todays experience.

Today was intentionally a short day behind the wheel. Total kms was 157. It is my birthday today so we wanted to be stopped and set up by 15:00 at the latest. The morning dawned bright and clear and a touch warmer than yesterday. The holiday camp at Ross beach is made up of 20 and 40 feet containers which is a novel idea. They reminded my very much of the pop up shopping mall that appeared in Christchurch after the 2011 earthquake that damaged so many buildings.

It was clear that as we headed further south on Highway 6 the weather was on the change as dark clouds gathered over the mountains ahead of us. This section of the West Coast of the South Island is festooned with lakes and clear blue mountain rivers rushing down to the Tasman Sea. Turquoise clear waters pour from the mountains to our left as we head south.

A short journey further south brings us to the town of HariHari. At first glance it appears like many other small townships along the route. However at the southern edge of the town just before the road leaves the town boundary there is a surprise waiting. For there appears to be a replica airplane in a purpose built hanger. You cant get into the hangar but large windows give you a good view inside. On closer inspection the visitor is drawn to the story of Guy Menzies who in January of 1930 completed the first aviation crossing of the Tasman Sea from Australia to New Zealand. He landed in a field, more a swamp to the west of the town of HariHari. The landing sight is marked by a plaques and storyboards and takes around 20 minutes to get to, deviating off the main highway to reach it. Well worth the detour.

The road to Franz Josef town and particularly the stretch between Franz Josef and Fox Glacier town is stunning. Just stunning. They climb through mountain passes requiring speeds of no more that 25 Kms at times to negotiate the numerous hairpins. Steep gulleys on one side of the road, sheer cliffs covered in dense bush on the other. Another motorcyclists must do. However for us, the rain started as we climbed up into the first pass. Not much but enough to keep my speeds down.

We now find ourself in a holiday camp in Fox glacier township. We are one of only 4 bookings tonight. It is rather sad to see this place, normally full of skiers, trampers and hikers so empty. The current covid crisis is hitting these places hard. We are out to dinner tonight away from the van for a hot birthday dinner. Tomorrow we head further south on highway 6 to Haast where the road turns inland towards Lake Hawea and on to Wanaka. Road works are meant to be an issue so we will see how we fare. We have no agenda.

Todays run was 182 Kms start to finish. We woke to a heavy dew on the grass, bright blue skies and a warmish gentle breeze. The sound of the surf on the beach was somehow calming. The inside of the van was a little chilly as overnight temperatures had dropped to around 5C. A portable electric heater supplied in the van equipment quickly took the chill off the air and the first order of the day was to get the kettle on for a brew. The only plan we had today was to visit the Punakaiki pancake rocks, a run down the Great Coastal Road to Greymouth and a visit to the glow worm dell just before Hokitika.

It was a journey of around an hour at the slow pace we were driving down the Great Coast road. This is Highway 6 that runs down the west coast of the upper south island of New Zealand. The section from Westport to Greymouth is a motorcyclists heaven. It is often listed as one of the great motorcycle rides of the world and with good reason. Scenic, twisty and with just enough sections to open the throttle for a blast. In a camper van however it was more of a chance to slow down and suffer from scenic overload. Just when you think you have seen the most stunning vista, you round the next bend and there is another. We stopped at Punakaiki in the Paparoa National park to look at the amazing and unusual rock formations. This is another one to add to your bucket list and one to cross of my wife Debbie’s.

We stopped in the town of Greymouth for supplies before heading south to the town of Hokitika. The glow worm dell at Hokitika was a bit of a damp squib. I had seen the signs for it on passing on my motorcycle many times. But never stopped. This time in the campervan we did. Ummm? Just kept going. Move along. Nothing to see here. After a refuel stop we motored on down the highway to our campsite at Ross. This is a very small town. The camp lies on Ross beach and here Debbie and I lit a beach camp fire. We partook of a rather nice Shiraz before retiring. I am now used to driving the van and its size no longer makes me nervous. Our what3words location for the night is: evolves.trill.glovebox Download the app at what3words.com and follow us on our journey. Travel tomorrow will be a shorter day in the saddle. It is my birthday and we shall travel a couple of hours south to Fox Glacier township.

I have never driven a camper van and so have never toured in one. It was time to remedy that. So, with some trepidation my wife and I booked a Maui camper van for two, complete with toilet and shower so we could go anywhere and stop anywhere. The rules regarding “freedom camping” here in New Zealand have tightened up recently. Vans need to be toilet equipped to go off piste. We picked up our van and at 7.2 metres long and 2.8 metres high it is rather larger than anything I have driven recently. Cruise ships excepted of course.A thorough briefing was given into how the van and the utilities within worked including how to empty the toilet cassette and where. A job for a few days hence I hope.

Initially we drove the van home to load it up. It quickly became apparent that we had more stuff than the van could hold. We have now reduced to the essentials which include plenty of wine, cheese, antipasti, crackers leaving enough space for clothes. That should do.