I can’t tell you how much a decent breakfast sets you up for a day on a motorcycle. The weather the past few days has been a concern. Considering we are into August you would be forgiven for thinking we were into Autumn already.
A large area of low pressure is circulating NW of Ireland bringing blustery winds and rain. It is almost stationary.
We set off from Bunbeg and headed north on the R257.
The road was exposed to the raw wind blowing straight off the sea.
We stopped in a lay-by at Brinlack to take a photo looking back over the bay. White-painted cottages dot a barren landscape. There are no trees anywhere. It’s tough going on the bike. Just before the small town of Gortahork, to add some interest, we take the N56 south. It’s a bit of a dull road, but it takes us to the shores of Lough Nacung. Here, we turn east onto the R251.
Now this road is a beauty. We did nip into a lay-by to get the wet weather gear on. The road was headed to the right of the volcanic peak. It was very gloomy.
Ahead, there were some very ominous-looking clouds over the peaks. The road winds its way up to around 285 meters above sea level before dropping down into the next valley. Here, we turned north onto the R256 on a narrow and twisty road over the moors.
The heavens opened heavily and we had to slow right down. as visibility was limited and the road became a little slippery on the bends. At Falcarragh we stopped under the shelter of a petrol station. We got a coffee and hoped that the rain would pass through. 30 mins later it had abated enough for us to continue without getting too wet.
At Dunfanaghy we turn north and climb up the narrow and winding track to Horn Head. The wind increases dramatically as we climb and pull up in the at the top of the climb.
Horn head is an old look out post dating back to Napoleonic times. Also, a more modern but run down post exists. It got cold very quickly in the biting wind. The roar of the sea rises up from below the cliffs. The wind makes talking hard.
We took our photos and retreated back down the track and set off for Creeslough down the N56. Here we turn onto the R245 and make a stop at Glen Drumlackagh to rest. It gave us a chance to snap a photo of Doe Castle. Once the home of the ruling McSweeney family it is now a national monument.
The road continues its journey north. It winds its way around Loughs and inlets. Never straight. Always winding to Fanad Head lighthouse. It was rare to get above third gear on these roads.
Whilst having a coffee a family came to admire the bikes and we get talking about where we have been. A general chit chat about our past route. One of them is chewing on some Dillisk. I have no idea what it is. They offer us some to try. It is air dried seaweed. It is delicious. It is supposed to be a delicacy in this region.
I love these interactions we have with people we meet.
As we ready to leave, the heavens open once again. This time we don’t have the wet weather gear on. The result is inevitable. We get wet. Oh well. Not much to do but carry on.
The R268 now follows the coast and passes Ballymastocker beach or strand, as they are called here. It’s a stunning strip of sand. The road then climbs through a series of hairpin turns up the hill behind the beach to a viewpoint above. We stop to take some photos.
The road now drops to sea level. It follows the coast all the way to our final stop at the Waters Edge hotel in Rathmullan. As we park the bikes a large rain cloud rolls in. Just to keep us on our toes it rains on us as we make a dash for the hotel door with our bags.
The day has been a fairly technical ride. Coping with buffeting winds and rain again has made us both tired. It is unfortunate that the weather has been so poor for the time of year. But that is Ireland.
Woodend Wanderer 