Woodend Wanderer

It was with some trepidation that I peered out of the cottage door. It was still raining. The wind and rain had pummeled the little cottage during the night, and I had hoped it would have passed. The updated forecast suggested another 2 hours until the worst would be over.

We decided to get on the road and donned the wet weather gear. The clear weather would come. Just when was in doubt. After refuelling in Donegal, we set off for Killybegs. Passing through the fishing town, we started to climb into the hills on winding roads. We paused for a coffee.

Then, we continued in sunshine and showers to Slieve League. We paid our €5 entry fee. Finally, we motored up to the top carpark. Oh my!

The view of the cliffs was staggering. The rain had cleared but wispy cloud clung to the sides and tops of the lofty peaks. We took our photos. Standing on the precipice looking at a scene like this laid out before you makes you feel so small. It is time to stand and stare and soak it all in.

Retracing our steps we descended back into Teelin. We took the R 263 road and struck west to Malin More. Then we followed the twisty road along the coast towards Cashel.

Suddenly we came upon a lot of cars parked by the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Sheepdog trials were playing out in a field beside us. We paused briefly to watch but had to move on as we were blocking the road. It was a brief but wonderful spectacle.

The road climbed again over the moors and hills. It reached an altitude of 230 metres above sea level. Even at these lofty heights, hedges of Fuchsias line the road. The ballerina-like flowers appear to be made of scarlet wax. They grow prolifically up here.

Then our path ahead dropped down on spectacular motorcycle roads into the town of Ardara.

Here we paused for lunch in the sun.

Sat on a bench in the street eating our sandwich a few locals paused to say hello to us. We must have looked rather unusual I suppose.

Leaving on the Portnoo road, the R 261, the road levels out a bit. This makes for easy riding in the sun.

We turn onto the N56. Now this is an altogether different road. Smooth and widish, it gave us a chance to open the throttle and blow the cobwebs away.

Sweeping and winding its way north through Lettermacaward and the wonderfully named Cloghbolie we turn off onto the R259.

This road narrows down and starts to twist and turn its way north through Burtonport and Kincasslagh. Never far from the coast the sea sparkles in the afternoon sun.

The smell of brine fills the air. To our right, hundreds of lakes, both large and small, dot the landscape. They are filled with dark brown tea-coloured water. The lakes are fed by thousands of streams, gurgling in gullies from the high tops recently soaked with rain. They look like mirrors on the heather. We pass Leo’s Tavern, where Enya and Clannad started their musical journey. We pass the distillery at Crolly. We turn off, onto the R257, to journey’s end. The Clady at Bunbeg is an old merchant’s store converted to a home that sits on the harbour’s edge. It is our lodgings for the night.

The sun shines on the fishing boats of all shapes and sizes in the harbour. 

I went for a short walk to view the old harbour. I have a brief conversation with Igor and his 9 year old daughter Tanya. Refugees from Kherson in Ukraine they have lived in Bunbeg for 14 months. Igor comes to admire our bikes. He apologises for his poor English. Tanya speaks excellent English and tells me they had to run away from the war. She tells me the people here are very nice. I am lost for words for once and simply wish them well.

Another day comes to a close. One of outstanding scenery. Superb motorcycling roads. Better weather than I had expected. If you are reading this, you must come and do this for yourself. No, you must.