Day 10, Clifden to Carrowbeg. Rainy Motorcycle Trip from Clifden to Westport – 179 Kilometers in Tough Conditions

I have no idea where Carrowbeg is either. Somewhere north of Westport.

The day dawned. I wish it hadn’t. All night the wind rattled the bedroom window. The alarm went off and simply insisted we got up and start the day. The rain was already tinkling on the glass. 

We went to breakfast in the conservatory of the Sea Mist guesthouse. It is a 200 year old coaching house. We watched the rain and wind lash the garden.

You don’t come to Ireland on a motorcycle without wet weather gear. We donned ours. Fully encapsulated in PVC outer clothing we ventured forth into the morning.


First order of the day was to tip toe around the Sky Road. It climbed steadily away from Clifden to the lofty heights to the west. As we climbed, the wind increased in intensity. It was slow going as the wind buffeted us. We stopped at the lookout point. We looked at the rain lashing the hills. The wind did its level best to rip our outer garments to shreds. It failed.


After the obligatory photo, we continued around the Sky Road circuit back to Clifden. Then, we struck east to Maams Cross and north to Clonbur. By now the concentration to keep a motorcycle on the road when Mother Nature is doing her best to get you off it was taking its toll. Coffee and cake was needed. Joyces Country Bakery in Clonbur duly obliged with an Almond Croissant for myself and a Belgian Brownie for Andy plus coffee. The staff thought we were “Eejits” for riding in this weather. 

This is fun. No really it is.


We can’t fault their argument. Replenished we continued in the driving rain. The R300 winding road rises and falls along the shores of Lough Mask. It crosses the County line from Galway to Mayo. Then, it passes through the hamlet of Finney. The brooks are roaring. Swollen with rain water draining from the lofty heights all around. The colour of black tea, the water boils as it descends through the gullies. We pause for a moment at the top of the climb to take in the view. Such as it is. Curtains of rain sweep across the moors. Andy’s gloves are now saturated. Whilst I have waterproof overgloves, a good trick is to use bread bags. His worked a treat even if they do look odd.

Descending into Leenaun, we take the N59 east. It runs along the southern shore of what many people consider to be Ireland’s only true fjord. 

At the village of Clog, we turn off onto the R335. We cross the Aasleagh Falls bridge. Then, we strike north through Delphi and along the shores of Doo Lough. A coffee truck provides another welcome break and a chance to shelter. As we sit there a change in the weather comes through. The wind increases appreciably. With it the rain passes and blue skies emerge. We continue on now in sunshine to Killadoon, Carrownisky and Louisburgh. All are busy with holiday traffic. We press on. 

The struggles of keeping safe in the weather takes its toll on both of us. We decide to stop for lunch in Westport. Having rested and resupplied at a local supermarket we take the rustic backroads to our nights rest in an Air BnB owned by Nicholas and Denise in the small hamlet of Carrowbank.

What an awesome house. Our room is super comfy. We have the run of the house. It comes complete with a snooker and pool room, no less.

Todays ride was only 179Kms, 112 miles. But it was tough going in the horrible weather. Total concentration needed to avoid the gravel washed onto the road by the rain, greasy tarmac and spray from other vehicles. We will sleep well tonight.

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