After a brief shower of rain yesterday evening we woke to a bright and dare I say it warmish day. 16C when we set off. Today we were just going to follow the Wild Atlantic Way and see what it presented us with. We are crossing the north west and top end of Donegal. It is windswept and spartan. Yet dotted about are collections of houses. Some new and on the large side. Are they holiday homes?
The road snaked its way along the hillsides into the small town of Dunfanaghy before climbing steadily away from the main road on a single track to Horn Head. Another amazing panorama spread out before us. It is all on private land now so access is limited but the view from the top where a WW2 lookout tower remains is staggering. The remains of a Napoleonic era lookout from 1805 still remain. I have sailed along this coast a few times and always viewed it from seaward. It is rather lovely to see it from the other perspective now.
Returning down the track we turn east towards Fanad Head. I had heard of this place. Firstly because a lovely lighthouse beloved of many a mariner adorns the headland but also that a 6000 burial tomb lies close by here. Rather puts things into perspective when you here the age of that don’t you think. This is hard country to farm. Walls of stone delineate fields strewn with boulders. What existence could have been eked from this landscape? We heard that peat cutting and seaweed burning for iodine were main professions.
Looking out over the present vista it is hard to imagine how tough life was.
The road now descended from its lofty perches past the most gorgeous beach at Ballymastocker strand and followed the line of the many sea inlets. Fish farming is big here.
We are now set for the night at the Mulroy drive campsite. This is a new site opened last year by a father and son who have visions to transform it into a must come place. It is a calm evening. Other than 3 motorcyclists we are alone. The midges are out so we are staying in to deprive them of an evening feast.
The son gave me a map listing many activities in the area. Whilst we have only a day this place could well be a hub for a few days at least.
Tomorrow is going to be a big day. Two things we must see. But more on that tomorrow.
Todays distance: 94 miles
Total distance: 1375 miles.
Woodend Wanderer 